CMP M1 Garand
- Thread starter boresight
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USMCRotrHed
Member
If you get a rack grade to shoot, plan on buying one of the aftermarket barrels CMP has available. Otherwise spend the extra money on a field or service grade. I've done it both ways and even though I have a new barrel on one Garand, I still enjoy shooting my service grade more. Don't know why.
Either way, they are worth it. Not super accurate but definately fun to shoot.
Either way, they are worth it. Not super accurate but definately fun to shoot.
MatthewVanitas
Member
A common method:
-buy Rack Grade
-shoot some 30-06 ammo through it and see how it shoots
-if accurate, keep it as-is
-if bore is so worn as to cause poor accuracy, rebarrel to .308 in order to take advantage of cheaper ammo, which is still in current military production all over the world.
Purists may scoff, but if it's been loaned to NATO allies, shot to heck by the Greeks, reassembled with fifteen different makes of spare parts in an arsenal in Prosthyokipsios, reimported to the U.S., and needs a new barrel, I don't think you're destroying a pristine collectible.
-MV
-buy Rack Grade
-shoot some 30-06 ammo through it and see how it shoots
-if accurate, keep it as-is
-if bore is so worn as to cause poor accuracy, rebarrel to .308 in order to take advantage of cheaper ammo, which is still in current military production all over the world.
Purists may scoff, but if it's been loaned to NATO allies, shot to heck by the Greeks, reassembled with fifteen different makes of spare parts in an arsenal in Prosthyokipsios, reimported to the U.S., and needs a new barrel, I don't think you're destroying a pristine collectible.
-MV
Keep in mind that sometimes all you need on some of those poor old rifles is to re-crown the muzzle. Years and years of muzzle-end cleaning with crappy military steel cleaning rods and no muzzle guides really takes a serious toll on accuracy.
That's generally a lot cheaper than a rebarrel job.
Matthew has a point, too, though. I bought a receiver only from the CMP, and had Dean's Gun Restorations build it up into a rifle in .308 caliber. For me, it was mostly because I already buy .308 in quantity, so it was a bit of a no-brainer to use ammo I already own. Things to watch for with .308 - the front sight post MAY need to be higher (mine needed a little more height), your gas system may foul up a little earlier due to the lighter powder charges (cleaning the gas system regularly should avoid this anyway), and you should really, really put in a .308 plastic bullet guide spacer to make sure you never accidentally attempt to load a clip of .30-06.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy from the CMP again. I just don't have need for another M1 at this time.
-Nathan
That's generally a lot cheaper than a rebarrel job.
Matthew has a point, too, though. I bought a receiver only from the CMP, and had Dean's Gun Restorations build it up into a rifle in .308 caliber. For me, it was mostly because I already buy .308 in quantity, so it was a bit of a no-brainer to use ammo I already own. Things to watch for with .308 - the front sight post MAY need to be higher (mine needed a little more height), your gas system may foul up a little earlier due to the lighter powder charges (cleaning the gas system regularly should avoid this anyway), and you should really, really put in a .308 plastic bullet guide spacer to make sure you never accidentally attempt to load a clip of .30-06.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy from the CMP again. I just don't have need for another M1 at this time.
-Nathan
Don't Tread On Me
Member
I'd go with rack-grade. The savings could easily be applied to a new barrel which would be better than service grade. Any replacement barrel is going to be better than a service grade, as even the service grade is worn - just less than a rack grade.
Shoot it as a rack grade. If it meets your personal accuracy expectations - good. If not, consider the recrown. Try again. If it meets your expectations then, good. If not, go for a rebarrel. Either in the same cartridge or whatever else is offered depending on what you want to accomplish.
A recrown shouldn't be more than $30. Might be worth it.
Rebarrel will cost a lot more, but the savings over a service grade will help offset the costs. Note, a rack grade + rebarrel job will cost more than just buying a service grade, BUT - you'll have a garand with a brand new barrel.
Shoot it as a rack grade. If it meets your personal accuracy expectations - good. If not, consider the recrown. Try again. If it meets your expectations then, good. If not, go for a rebarrel. Either in the same cartridge or whatever else is offered depending on what you want to accomplish.
A recrown shouldn't be more than $30. Might be worth it.
Rebarrel will cost a lot more, but the savings over a service grade will help offset the costs. Note, a rack grade + rebarrel job will cost more than just buying a service grade, BUT - you'll have a garand with a brand new barrel.
I disagree. Get the best grade available from the CMP. That would be Service Grade. Your chances of getting a "Good" rifle go up. Yes, there are some "Rack grades" that shoot as well as some "Service grades," but that's not the way to bet. I believe those rifles are examples of the absolute best of the "Rack Grades" being compared to the bottom level of the "Service Grades." Like I said, it can happen, but it's not the way to bet.
Remember, the CMP is not going to have these rifles forever. Why buy less then the best grade available just to save a relatively small amount of cash?
Remember, the CMP is not going to have these rifles forever. Why buy less then the best grade available just to save a relatively small amount of cash?
Dr. Dickie
Member
Personally, I would get a service grade.
I know I got lucky, but the service grade rifle I got was beautiful. New barrel, pristine reciever, great stock, and what appeared to be new trigger, op-rod, gas port, etc.
The thing shoots way better than I do.
I know I got lucky, but the service grade rifle I got was beautiful. New barrel, pristine reciever, great stock, and what appeared to be new trigger, op-rod, gas port, etc.
The thing shoots way better than I do.
Mac Attack
Member
I picked up a Service Grade and a Rack grade on my last CMP purchase. The SG had better metal, barrel was within guage specs, had a great finish and excellent matching stock, while the RG had a worn barrel, mixed stock that needed to be replaced and a finish that showed use. I had planned to rebarrel the RG with a .308 barrel but after adding up the cost I decided it wasn't worth it for me and I sold it to a neighbor. I still have the SG and it shoots great.
If you only plan to buy one then I suggest you drop the extra cash on a SG rifle.
If you only plan to buy one then I suggest you drop the extra cash on a SG rifle.
I would love to buy a service grade, but it's not in my budget. The racker I would prefer to buy would be a Winchester or USGI Springfield, but the Winchesters are sold out. This may be a good thing though because I would most likely buy an Garand sometime this winter or spring. Would their inventory of Grands be replenished by then? Also once I get my M1 I would like to strip down the wood, and refinish it, and use a greenish grey moly resin for the metal which supposably resembles parkerizing. Is this reccomended to do? By the way thanks for your replies.
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If the Winchesters are sold out, don't expect them to restock anytime soon. Based on past experience, once a particular manufacturer or type is sold out, that's usually it.
Personally, I wouldn't refinish a Garand unless I absolutely had to. And then I would only reparkerize it. Adding a new "high tech" finish to that historic rifle just strikes me as odd.
Personally, I wouldn't refinish a Garand unless I absolutely had to. And then I would only reparkerize it. Adding a new "high tech" finish to that historic rifle just strikes me as odd.
BoySetsTheFire
Member
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I ordered the "correct grade" which is manufactured by H&R as opposed to Springfield. I've heard good things about the H&R. It was expensive and I haven't received it yet. But after a lifetime of working hard and raising kids, I'm entitled to good toys. As soon as I get it, I'll post my thoughts.
Ditto on the refinishing. Since I only got a receiver, I can't comment on the wood, but the ones I've seen at my local range (we have a local "Garand Guy" that has nothing to do with the online Garand Guy, and he brings all his Garands and his "customers" guns to the range) seem to be in okay shape.
Just remember the beginning of the oath of restoring historic firearms:
First, do no harm.
Wait, maybe that was some other oath. Anyway, don't go sanding anything down right away, but raise some of the dings and dents with steam and try to bake off the cosmoline (see www.surplusrifle.com for some good ideas on how to do these things), and then see where you are. If you're dead set on refinishing the metal, I'd start with a new barrel anyway - why not, if you're going to make it look nice, too? And please don't do anything but Parkerize the bloody thing.
Just remember the beginning of the oath of restoring historic firearms:
First, do no harm.
Wait, maybe that was some other oath. Anyway, don't go sanding anything down right away, but raise some of the dings and dents with steam and try to bake off the cosmoline (see www.surplusrifle.com for some good ideas on how to do these things), and then see where you are. If you're dead set on refinishing the metal, I'd start with a new barrel anyway - why not, if you're going to make it look nice, too? And please don't do anything but Parkerize the bloody thing.
bigcim
Member
are the Winchester. International Harvester, Harrington & Richardson better rifles theeen the Springfield
lacoochee
Member
In short Bigcm
Nope, just different hence to some more desirable but the parts are identical.
Nope, just different hence to some more desirable but the parts are identical.
bigcim
Member
which were used most in the war
I recently bought a H&R Correct grade from CMP, and I am thrilled with it. It was in better shape than I expected, althought I did completely strip it and refinish the stock with BLO. I am not usually a very good rifle shooter, but have been shooting 3.5" - 4" groups at 100 yards with iron sights and surplus ammo. Overall, it is a great gun in my opinion.
lacoochee
Member
They all manufactured Garands
during WWII and Korea.
If you are curious when a particular rifle was manufactured, check the table here:
http://www.jouster.com/serial/assigned.html
or here for a little history on a particular serial number:
http://armscollectors.com/srs/lookup_m1.php
Anymore garand questions ask the experts at:
http://www.odcmp.org/new_forum/
during WWII and Korea.
If you are curious when a particular rifle was manufactured, check the table here:
http://www.jouster.com/serial/assigned.html
or here for a little history on a particular serial number:
http://armscollectors.com/srs/lookup_m1.php
Anymore garand questions ask the experts at:
http://www.odcmp.org/new_forum/
bigcim
Member
do cmp rifles have matching numbers
MatthewVanitas
Member
If you put on a new barrel, the best option for most folks would be 7.62x51mm, in order to be able to use surplus military ammo. The 7.62 NATO is still in use around the world, so there's a decent chance that surplus will continue to drift in, or that East European manufacturers will produce moderately cheap ammo for the American market.
For the .308, I don't believe anything needs to be changed besides the barrel, though it's advised to buy a little plug to go into the magazine to prevent 30-06 rounds from accidentally be loaded in.
There are numerous discussions of rebarreling from previous months, which you can find by clicking the Search button. Also bear in mind that 7.62x51mm and .308 are almost but not quite interchangeable, so some folks may advertise rebarelling to ".308" instead of "7.62 NATO".
I'd buy one case of surplus 30-06 ammo and shoot it as-is with the original barrel first: you might get one with a perfectly good barrel. Make sure to check and see if the 30-06 ammo you buy (such as Korean) is corrosive. If it is, you can still shoot it with no problems, but make sure to clean it fully as soon as you get home from the range. Run a Search under "corrosive" for info on what products to clean with after using corrosive surplus ammo.
-MV
For the .308, I don't believe anything needs to be changed besides the barrel, though it's advised to buy a little plug to go into the magazine to prevent 30-06 rounds from accidentally be loaded in.
There are numerous discussions of rebarreling from previous months, which you can find by clicking the Search button. Also bear in mind that 7.62x51mm and .308 are almost but not quite interchangeable, so some folks may advertise rebarelling to ".308" instead of "7.62 NATO".
I'd buy one case of surplus 30-06 ammo and shoot it as-is with the original barrel first: you might get one with a perfectly good barrel. Make sure to check and see if the 30-06 ammo you buy (such as Korean) is corrosive. If it is, you can still shoot it with no problems, but make sure to clean it fully as soon as you get home from the range. Run a Search under "corrosive" for info on what products to clean with after using corrosive surplus ammo.
-MV
There are no "matching numbers" on a Garand. The small parts were not serial numbered. The numbers on the individual parts are "Drawing numbers." These were used to track changes to the blueprints and upgrades to those parts. The drawing numbers have no relation to the serial number of the rifle and are different for each part and then for each revision of each part.
A better question to ask would be, "Are the CMP Garands in the original issue condition?" The answer would be, "No."
Almost all USGI Garands were rebuilt at least once (usually more) during their service life. The whole idea behind "interchangable parts" meant that you could swap parts out from rifle to rifle and not have to worry about causing problems. Even though they are not "Correct as manufactured from the factory," they are in GI issue condition.
thumper723
Member
I bought a CMP rack grade Greek Return.
Stock was a bit rought but serviceable. June 43 SA reciever, Aug-55 barrel.
IHC Milled trigger group, HRA bolt.
Shoots about 4-5 MOA off of a rest with HXP surplus from CMP. It is probably capable of better, but I am not. FWIW, I have a hard time getting more accuracy out of an AR, so I think it is me, and the rifle can do better.
Stock was a bit rought but serviceable. June 43 SA reciever, Aug-55 barrel.
IHC Milled trigger group, HRA bolt.
Shoots about 4-5 MOA off of a rest with HXP surplus from CMP. It is probably capable of better, but I am not. FWIW, I have a hard time getting more accuracy out of an AR, so I think it is me, and the rifle can do better.
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