Coated Bullets
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Schwing
Member
I use the same load data for coated bullets as I would for cast. As always, if you start at the bottom of the data and work up, you won't have a problem.
If there is no data for cast bullets for a specific powder, I don't use that powder for my coated bullets. For most hand gun calibers I am partial to Unique and HP-38.
If there is no data for cast bullets for a specific powder, I don't use that powder for my coated bullets. For most hand gun calibers I am partial to Unique and HP-38.
I've read on different forums that some gun powders soften the powder coating while sitting on the shelf nose down loaded. Only effects the base supposedly. Tight Group is one that supposedly does it, but I have no first hand experience with powder coated bullets and Tight Group.
AzShooter1
Member
I've been using coated bullets for about a year now and have no problems switching from my lead load data to the coated bullets. I find there is no leading with coated. Accuracy is better and I don't get my hands dirty when loading.
I order a variety of colors so I can tell just by looking at my ammo what the load data is.
I like Blue Bullets, Bayou Bullets and Eggleston Munitions. Eggleston has the biggest variety of colors.
I order a variety of colors so I can tell just by looking at my ammo what the load data is.
I like Blue Bullets, Bayou Bullets and Eggleston Munitions. Eggleston has the biggest variety of colors.
snuffy
Member
Your thread could be read as "powder" for the coating the bullet, or "powder" to load behind the bullet.
Assuming the latter, whatever you were using will be okay for powder coated bullets. I have no experience with the hy-tech coating, but I imagine they woul load the same as any cast boolit load.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I load coated bullets with the same powders I use for cast bullets. They seem to work just as well on both. I mostly use W231/HP-38 and W540/HS-6 with coated bullets.
Since you asked for powders for 'coated' bullets, not 'coating' bullets: I've loaded everything from 700X to #9 behind em', literally.
Coated loads the same as lead, without the leading of course. You still need proper belling, proper fit to your barrel, and a BHN that matches your operating pressure (not because of gas cutting, for obturation).
Coated loads the same as lead, without the leading of course. You still need proper belling, proper fit to your barrel, and a BHN that matches your operating pressure (not because of gas cutting, for obturation).
I'd suspect this is an issue with double base powders. i.e. Bullseye, PowerPistol, etc. Not certain on Tightgroup, haven't used it to comment.
I have left Bullseye in my powder drop overnight and it tends to stick to the insides if left in too long likes its slowly melting the plastic, or rather, at least chemically interacting with it. Now, any time I use double base powders, I transfer the unused portion back into it's container when I'm done for the day to prevent this from occurring again.
I'm conducting a test with various powders in my possession, but just for the heck of it.
Like jeepmore, I was noticing that high nitroglycerin containing powders like Bullseye and Power Pistol were discoloring my LnL AP powder hopper even though the powders were never in the hopper for more than an hour at a time. I empty the hopper every time I stop loading no matter what. Someone on another forum showed the inside of his RCBS hopper after 1 night of Titegroup being left in it and it looked like the hopper was etched pretty badly. Some brand of hoppers are resistant to high NG powders and some get a lot of non-static sticking and discoloring.
When I started powder coating, I wondered if the powder would interact with the polymer and some do. My concern is does it affect the potency of the powder? I loaded up 3 bullets each with 8 different pistol powders and checked after 30 hours and 50 days. Here is what it looks like after 50 days:
The surface of the bullets didn't look a whole lot worse after 50 days than it did after 30 hour but what gave me a little more concern was that I also saw mottled looking clumps inside the cartridges that had powder sticking to the bullets. I'll check the other bullets after a total of 6 months, then a year.
The PC is Harbor Freight Red ASBBDT'ed and baked for at least 20 minutes at 375-400F so I'm sure the polymer is cured properly. They shoot great and cause zero leading in my guns.
I've only been powder coating for about 20 months and none of my loaded ammo is older than that. Only recently did I start loading PC bullets with powders other than Unique, Red Dot and Clays which have virtually no NG and I have been storing them boxed with the nose up. For me, my loaded ammo typically doesn't last for more than a month before I shoot it so it probably doesn't matter so I don't have a reason to do any chrony testing of aged PC ammo with double based powders. I did shoot some loads with Titegroup and 20/28 that were loaded in November recently and I couldn't tell the difference in recoil or performance so for range fodder it's good to go.
Anyway, the test cost less than 50 cents in powder 10 minutes setup and lead and the only thing that I may dump is some of the powder so it's not too costly of an experiment.
Like jeepmore, I was noticing that high nitroglycerin containing powders like Bullseye and Power Pistol were discoloring my LnL AP powder hopper even though the powders were never in the hopper for more than an hour at a time. I empty the hopper every time I stop loading no matter what. Someone on another forum showed the inside of his RCBS hopper after 1 night of Titegroup being left in it and it looked like the hopper was etched pretty badly. Some brand of hoppers are resistant to high NG powders and some get a lot of non-static sticking and discoloring.
When I started powder coating, I wondered if the powder would interact with the polymer and some do. My concern is does it affect the potency of the powder? I loaded up 3 bullets each with 8 different pistol powders and checked after 30 hours and 50 days. Here is what it looks like after 50 days:
The surface of the bullets didn't look a whole lot worse after 50 days than it did after 30 hour but what gave me a little more concern was that I also saw mottled looking clumps inside the cartridges that had powder sticking to the bullets. I'll check the other bullets after a total of 6 months, then a year.
The PC is Harbor Freight Red ASBBDT'ed and baked for at least 20 minutes at 375-400F so I'm sure the polymer is cured properly. They shoot great and cause zero leading in my guns.
I've only been powder coating for about 20 months and none of my loaded ammo is older than that. Only recently did I start loading PC bullets with powders other than Unique, Red Dot and Clays which have virtually no NG and I have been storing them boxed with the nose up. For me, my loaded ammo typically doesn't last for more than a month before I shoot it so it probably doesn't matter so I don't have a reason to do any chrony testing of aged PC ammo with double based powders. I did shoot some loads with Titegroup and 20/28 that were loaded in November recently and I couldn't tell the difference in recoil or performance so for range fodder it's good to go.
Anyway, the test cost less than 50 cents in powder 10 minutes setup and lead and the only thing that I may dump is some of the powder so it's not too costly of an experiment.
Toprudder
Member
I wonder if the Hi-Tek coating, being a two-part product, would be less susceptible.
Reefinmike
Member
Im doing the same thing. I noticed a year after loading that bullseye really chewed up the bases of HF red powder coated bullets. they shot just fine but recovered bullets had oddly colored orange bases. I pulled a few rounds, powder was stuck to the base of the bullet and the powdercoat was so soft on the base that you could scrape it off with your fingernail to expose bare lead.
I too am testing a couple powders- titegroup and CFE pistol. Pulled two so far at 3 weeks and just yesterday at 6 weeks. Titegroup is starting to stick to the bases of the bullets but it does not seem to be badly etching the powdercoat base. CFE seems good to go so far.
here is a short list of powders i've found Good to go after a year loaded
HP-38
W231
H110
W296
aa1680
lilgun
700x(just a flake or two stuck to base of bullet, not soft after a year)
Unique(" ")
I too am testing a couple powders- titegroup and CFE pistol. Pulled two so far at 3 weeks and just yesterday at 6 weeks. Titegroup is starting to stick to the bases of the bullets but it does not seem to be badly etching the powdercoat base. CFE seems good to go so far.
here is a short list of powders i've found Good to go after a year loaded
HP-38
W231
H110
W296
aa1680
lilgun
700x(just a flake or two stuck to base of bullet, not soft after a year)
Unique(" ")
highlander 5
Member
I'very been playing around with homemade PC bullets in 9 mm and 45 auto with a reasonable amount of success. As far as I can tell after the coating is baked on left to cool the bullets aren't tacky or attract powder. I use Harbor Frieght red,ally it by swirling and shaking in a bowl with airsoft BBs and a teaspoon of powder. Get an 80 to 100% coating,my main concern is the driving bands are coated. The one great thing about PC is smoke is almost completely eliminated,I shot indoors and even though the range has a very good air filtration system it's nice to leave not feeling like you've smoked a half pack of Lucky Strikes.
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