Coating for AK

[kcmarine]

I'm doing a restoration on a rifle. The rifle isn't very old, about 3 years old. It's a Saiga, and after doing work on it, it's occurred to me that the finish isn't that great on it. I've taken some of the finish (seems to be a very, very light powder coat) off with sandpaper. Obviously, it needs to be refinished so it doesn't rust.

I know of Duracoat, but I was wondering what the other options are. I want to preserve the lettering on the rifle, which isn't that deep. I'm on a budget, so I can't go nuts on this. The finish should be matte black. What kind of skills would be needed to get all of this done?

 

[dfariswheel]

In addition to Duracoat, there's Brownell's Aluma-Hyde and Aluma-Hyde II.

Aluma-Hyde requires baking in the oven, the II is an air cure, no baking.
Also Guncoat is good.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=433/k=/t=P/mfg=/Products/Paint-Finishes

The best way to apply any of these "paint" type finishes is to bead blast the metal first. While they work on smooth metal too, the bead blasting gives the coating a slightly rough "tooth" to bond to. This makes for a much more durable finish.

Other than that, getting the metal CLEAN of oil or grease is critical. The better you clean and prep, the better the final finish.
Among the various ways do this is to use a strong liquid cleaner like Simply Green or Greased Lightning to scrub the metal, followed by a good scrub and flush with a solvent like Acetone. (OUTSIDE, away from sparks).

Most of these coatings work better when applied with an airbrush, but if you practice and are careful, you can do it with the spray cans.

The final key is to let it dry or cure until it's absolutely dry.
The oven bake is ready in a hour or so.
Some of the air cures are usable in a day or so, but continue to harden for up to 3 weeks.

 

[twkremer]

Tractor engine paint?

 

[kcmarine]

Idk if I can get that stuff thin enough. Unless it's available in spray form.

 

[twkremer]

Try Tractor Supply Co. I'm almost positive I've seen spray-on tractor paint.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Saigas have parkerizing under the cheesy paint. Unless you see shiny metal it's still protected.

BBQ grill paint is cheap, flat black and fairly durable. I've used it on an AK that had a rusty gas tube. You can preserve the lettering by filling it with wax or grease before painting and then removing the wax/grease afterward.

As far as I know the only thing special about tractor paint is that it's made to match tractor colors, and is not superior to or more durable than other kinds of spray enamel you might get.

 

[CnRnut]

I've refinished many longarms with Aluma-Hyde II.
If you media blast and clean the metal very good,it holds up great.
Use a heat gun to help get oils out of the fine nooks(under gas block,
and front sight base),then blast it.
I use MEK as a cleaner,and clean it 4 times.
Spend the cash on the tools needed,it pays in the long haul.

 

[Al Thompson]

Flat black Krylon works fine. Spray the crap out of the metal with carb cleaner (to degrease it), then carefully coat the rifle with Krylon. Three light coats are better than one heavy one. It takes a while to fully harden, so stick in the sunlight if you can or just leave it alone for a week or so. Did this with my 870 Express, SKS and other guns that I mis-remember.

 

[nastynatesfish]

Go with KG gun coat. They have both over cure and air cure finishes. They work really good. Al you need is a cheap air brush and some canned propellant or a small air compressor. I did my baby eagle with it and its awesome.

 

[zhyla]

Parkerize it. None of these epoxy paint finishes are going to stand up to much abuse from what I've read and observed.

 

[W.E.G.]

I'd go with rust.

 

[Z-Michigan]

None of these epoxy paint finishes are going to stand up to much abuse from what I've read and observed.

FWIW, and assuming that's true (I don't know) you could repaint the metal about 10-20 times with one $4 spray can of Krylon or Rustoleum, do it after each hard weekend if you want, and not break the bank.

 

[wally]

I'd go with rust.

Certainly adds character Next time you cut yourself, put some bloody fingerprints on it before you apply first aid

 

[Maverick223]

None of these epoxy paint finishes are going to stand up to much abuse from what I've read and observed.

Unless you plan to drag it in the sand or throw it around my experience has been different, when using high quality coatings. The best rattle can paint that I have used is NAPA low gloss black engine paint. It is a ceramic finish and I find it to hold up about as good as gunkote. It gives the rifle a very matte finish (almost dusty appearance) and seems to blend well. Just keep the can back a ways and slowly sweep it for a thin, even finish. Here is my Saiga-12 using the aforementioned coating:

 

[10mm Mike]

^ which parts of your Saiga were painted? (I guess it speaks well for the paint if I have to ask)

 

[Maverick223]

^ which parts of your Saiga were painted? (I guess it speaks well for the paint if I have to ask)

Everything sans bolt carrier (which I think I might do in the near future), handguard, stock, grip, flashlight, & magazine. Sorry for the poor photo, I didn't have one after the conversion with the stock unfolded.

 

[kcmarine]

Sounds like I'll be going with engine paint/ bbq paint then.

When the day comes for a fancy advanced coat, I'll put it on.

 

[Maverick223]

Smart decision, if you decide you don't like it and want to re-coat it, you just squandered a grand total of about $5.00 If you like it, you just saved about $60.00.

 

[sarduy]

try engine paint.

 

[CnRnut]

If your going with the "cheap,fast" paint job,still clean all parts 3-4 times.
Wear gloves when cleaning,for your protection,and a better job.
Also use a heat gun(hair dryer works) to heat the metal pryor to spraying.
This will help dry on contact and prevents any runs from happening.
Many thin coats are better thin one thick coat.
Good luck,post pic's when done.

 

[AK103K]

Aluma Hyde II works great, and is tough stuff, as long as you apply it as directed. You do have to let it cure, and dont handle it while it does. Brownells has a couple of videos on it and its application. They are well worth watching, even if you dont use it.

I've done an AK using it, and it came out very nice. It sprays on thin enough that you can see all lettering, even the fine stuff. Prep is everything, so make sure you have it all set up ahead of time. You dont want to try and figure it out whille youre doing it. Strip the furniture off the gun and mask areas you dont want paint on or in. I slip a piece of "all thread", thats just smaller than the bore, down the barrel and secure it with a couple of fender washers on both ends. I also use a third washer at the end of the rod, at the muzzle end to hang it by. The rod sticking out, also gives you something to hold onto while you paint. Degreasing is the key, I usually use a good part of a can of Gun Scrubber to do mine. I do the gun a couple of times before hand, and then again, right before I paint. I also do my hands with it too.

Take your time, and be patient, and you'll have a nice job at the end.

 

[kcmarine]

Okay, few problems.

Using some brand or other of high temperature paint. Flat black.

Stuff isn't really... sticking. Rub it enough with a towel hard enough, and it comes off.

Obviously, a problem.

I cant quite get all of the old stuff off. Does this kind of paint require a primer? Obviously, I need to get the spray paint off, and then get down to the old stuff.

Any tips? Suggestions? Telepathic powers that will enable you to do the job from your keyboard and save me the time?

 

[Maverick223]

If necessary use brake cleaner to remove the defective coating, but do not get this on the furniture (or any other polymer/synthetic part), or any part that you want to retain the finish on. I have used Krylon and high heat paints (like Rustoleum BBQ paint), but have had mediocre results at best. As I mentioned previously the enamel engine paint worked great, and holds up well. I did prime the surface first using Duron Dura-Clad metal primer (Duron is now owned by Sherwin Williams so they probably carry this product or one similar to it), it too works quite well.

 

[kcmarine]

What exactly is break dust remover?

 

[Maverick223]

What exactly is break dust remover?

Same as Brake Cleaner, it is used for cleaning disk brakes, and will remove nearly any finish that is not baked on. It is also an exceptional gun cleaner for detailing your rifle, but should be used with caution because it is quite strong.