Considering this S&W Model 10

[monotonous_iterancy]

I am considering purchasing this model 10 as a fun gun, and, perhaps in the future, for work. I currently work as a security guard, and if I were to ever get involved in being an armed courier, I would be required in my jurisdiction to carry a .38 revolver.

As such, this seemingly well used S&W has piqued my interest. It is a model 10-6 priced at $450 serial number 48657. It seems to have holster wear already, so while it would be primarily a range gun for my own amusement, I wouldn’t feel bad carrying it in the future if I had to.

Mechanically, I checked the the timing and lockup and they seem fine on examination. I am going to go back to the store tomorrow to do a final look over and decide to buy it or not. But in looking at pictures just now that I took of the revolver, I notice two possible areas of concern, and am wanting your advice.

The first concern is on the right-side frame between the hammer and the cylinder. I can’t tell if that is a crack, but it looks like it might well be. Whatever it is, I didn’t notice it when handling it personally.



Second, I wonder about the cylinders. I have heard that they should be smooth. I am not terrible familiar with revolvers, so I don’t know if the marks that I see in these cylinders in the second photo are signs of significant wear.



I am also looking at a blued S&W Model 15-4 at another store for about a hundred dollars more. The finish is hardly touched, being shiny and polished. I would be reluctant to carry that in a holster, although it would work well for my primary purpose. The lockup is immaculate, with there being virtually no give or wiggle at all. I have read that a slight amount is normal for S&W, and I wonder if the tightness of this one is something to be concerned about.

Any advice?

 

[UncleEd]

Pass. Many nicer Model 10s out there.

Or get the Model 15.

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Pass. Many nicer Model 10s out there.

Or get the Model 15.

Are there nicer Model 10’s at a comparable price point?

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

The "crack" is just the sideplate seam.

The striations in the charge holes are likely lead and residue buildup- probably just needs a good cleaning.

S&W's always have bit of wiggle upon lockup.

$450 is a decent price these days for that gun. I say go for it.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Are there nicer Model 10’s at a comparable price point?

Excellent to mint M10s here locally will have $650-750 on the tag. M15s will be $50 to $100 more in like condition.

The M15 you describe for $550-ish is a very good price, though inflicting holster wear on it will depreciate it pretty quickly.

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

The "crack" is just the sideplate seam.

The striations in the charge holes are likely just lead and residue buildup- probably just needs a good cleaning.

I thought that this could be the case, but I wasn’t sure. Now, is it normal for a properly aligned revolver to have significant lead buildup in the chambers? I’ve only ever owned long guns, aside from one snub-nose that I no longer have and shot rarely.

 

[silicosys4]

Are there nicer Model 10’s at a comparable price point?

Prices range from $300 or so for a beater,

SMITH & WESSON 10-6 .38 SPL for sale

SMITH & WESSON 10-6 .38 SPL for sale online.

www.gunsinternational.com

SMITH & WESSON 10-6 .38 SPL for sale

SMITH & WESSON 10-6 .38 SPL for sale online.

www.gunsinternational.com

To $600-$700 for a nice example.

SMITH & WESSONMODEL 10-638 SPECIALREVOLVER(1974-75 YEAR MODEL) for sale

SMITH & WESSONMODEL 10-638 SPECIALREVOLVER(1974-75 YEAR MODEL) for sale online.

www.gunsinternational.com

 

[UncleEd]

The gun has not been cared for; underneath grips may
reveal a nightmare of more neglect.

Chambers all crudded; suspect barrel the same.

Suspect under side plate more crude.

 

[jstert]

i totally lucked out on two s&w m10 revolvers on gunbroker. a pristine, blued, pencil barrel that the seller said was a bedside piece only, and a faded, worn, heavy barrel that was advertised as a former police sidearm. each was low $300s. both are superb shooters.

for not over $350ish why not a new, lifetime-warrantied taurus?

Taurus 856 TORO Revolver - Black | 38 Spl +P | 3' Barrel | 6rd | Rubber Grip | Includes Optic Mount

<p>Capacity: 6 Rounds Action Type: Double Action / Single Action Firing System: Hammer Front Sight: Removable Serrated Blade Rear Sight: Fixed Includes Optic Mount for micro Red Dots Grip: Soft Rubber Cylinders Included: 1</p>

dahlonegaarmory.com

Taurus 2820041 82 Medium Frame 38 Special 4' 6rd Fixed Sight Syn Grip Blued

<p>These revolvers are a longtime favorite of security personnel and perfect for Homeland Defense Forces. This medium frame, 6-shot revolver features comfortable rubber grips and a deep, lustrous finish. With fixed sights and a custom Single Action/Double Action trigger for improved accuracy and...

dahlonegaarmory.com

TAURUS 856 .38 SPL 6 ROUNDS 3

Built for personal defense. Perfected for everyday carry. The Taurus 856 is finely tuned to deliver the ultimate peace of mind for home and personal defense situations. Brand: Taurus Model: 856 Caliber: .38 Special Barrel Length: 3" Grip: VZ Grip Capacity: 6 Rounds Finish: Stainless Steel

www.smga.com

 

[Armored farmer]

I like the deal you have on a nice model 15 myself.....it'll always be worth $100 more than the model 10.

 

[JT-AR-MG42]

From the OPs photos, I would also pass.

The finish wear on the ejector rod would suggest the gun has been fired (or played with anyway)
a lot.
Combined with the lack of attention to cleaning, I would also go with the Combat Masterpiece.

JT

 

[CajunBass]

I'm a big fan of the Model 15. Almost always worth a little more. Sure a holster will wear it, but are you buying a gun or a museum piece? Unless it is absolutly pristine, in the original box, with all the papers, it's just another gun. Get it. Shoot it. And carry it.

It's been a long time since I was a security guard, but I'd have been proud to have this one in my Border Patrol holster, on a Sam Brown belt. I'd have looked like Barney Fife for sure...only not that thin.

 

[Mark_Mark]

From the OPs photos, I would also pass.

The finish wear on the ejector rod would suggest the gun has been fired (or played with anyway)
a lot.
Combined with the lack of attention to cleaning, I would also go with the Combat Masterpiece.

JT

was looking at the ejector rod too! and I bet the recoil shield has rings all over it. That muzzle wear is scary. I would pass, it’s priced too high by $150

 

[Tallball]

Not seeing the piece in person, it's hard to say...

FWIW, the wear looks mostly like holster wear to me, but that's an opinion.

IMHO, $450 is a little on the high side, but not a whole lot.

If you're patient, it wouldn't take long to find a nicer one on GB for roughly the same price OTD.

Like someone else said, the Taurus Model 82 is pretty much the same revolver, but with a coil mainspring and a transfer bar safety. I have two of those and two Model 10's. The Model 10's are nicer and "cooler", but the Taurii go bang just fine.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

That gun shows signs of use and not cleaning, but from the pictures I don't see any major signs of neglect or abuse. Blueing wear on the side of the muzzle isn't unusual for old service revolvers. As long as the crown is good it's not a problem. AAMOF, my favorite Model 15 has wear like that.

The only possible thing actually wrong with it is maybe the ejector rod isn't straight, but that may be an artifact of the picture. Spin the cylinder with it open and see if the ejector rod is bent. If so, pass. If not, it's just blueing wear.

I have a large collection of revolvers, many of which are old cop or security guard guns. Many of them came dirty. I once bought a 3" Ruger GP-100 that was absolutely filthy because out of the several I examined it had the smoothest action. Likewise, I bought a S&W Victory Model with a heavy trigger pull. After I removed the sideplate and hosed out several decades of congealed goo, the trigger pull dropped by several pounds.

Don't let a bit of dirt prevent you from buying a gun.

As for the price see if the seller will haggle, but depending on your area $450 may not be out of line in 2024.

 

[jar]

I thought that this could be the case, but I wasn’t sure. Now, is it normal for a properly aligned revolver to have significant lead buildup in the chambers? I’ve only ever owned long guns, aside from one snub-nose that I no longer have and shot rarely.

Depends on how often and well the others cleaned it. Generally a fuggitabutit.

 

[trackskippy]

Im not opposed to buying a dirty gun, if it looks fairly well cared for otherwise. But they're paying me to clean it up by what I offer.

To me, a gun in that shape means it wasn't cared for or maintained, maybe even abused, so it would get a lowball offer, if I bothered at all.

 

[Bush Pilot]

was looking at the ejector rod too! and I bet the recoil shield has rings all over it. That muzzle wear is scary. I would pass, it’s priced too high by $150

You would actually pass on a gun?

 

[halfmoonclip]

Have you considered a Model 64 , the same gun in stainless? I've picked up a couple 64s, a snub, and a pencil, for not a whole lot of money...but it has been a couple years. The pencil was an old cop gun; even have the holster. It cleaned up like new, and the action was great from the get-go. A little futzing made it better; nothing slicks up like a K-gun.
Moon

 

[Mark_Mark]

You would actually pass on a gun?

different between honest wear and forced wear. OP should buy the gun and wrap the grip with duct tape to complete the look

 

[Wildbillz]

Price seems a bit high for a Mod 10 to me. But then I haven't look in a while either. I would go for the Mod 15 over the 10 if it were me.

WB

 

[UncleEd]

What I want to know, did a pitbull chew on the
barrel near the muzzle. The left side looks ugly.

 

[.38 Special]

I don't see anything in the pictures that would completely scare me off. There's a lot that the pictures might not show, though. In general I tend to tell people that such "hard use" guns might be best left to people with a good deal of experience, just to avoid hidden problems.

These days, though, with guns harder to find, and prices all over the place, that might not be good advice. And hey, there's only one way to gain experience, so...

(A good place to start, as always... https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-checkout-10-year-anniversary-update.695644/)

 

[film495]

there are probably better ones for the money. I you need to pay a gunsmith to fix anything, then you're looking at like 800 bucks to start and you should just buy a new one for that. a new Taurus 856 would be less that the $450 you're looking to pay, and it comes with night sights and two grip options. The UL I got weights 17 oz. and I carry that and not my Model 10. The 10 is a great shooter and range gun, but it is just heavy and I'd rather carry less weight. If you can carry 9mm for work, I'd consider some of the small 9s, just to compare the function/utility of easier reloads and higher capacity. A model 10 was my first pistol not too many years ago, so - I'm not trying to dissuade you by any means.

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

Timing, lockup, chamber and bore condition are always the critical deal-breakers. Personally I'd use UncleEd's comments to negotiate the price down a bit more, and pass on the deal if they hold firm.

If $450 is the out the door price, it's not too far off by my local standards; if not, try to get the seller to cover the tax and DROS from his end.

This has the general look of a well-used police trade-in. They can usually be had online for less, or for a similar price but in better condition. If you haven't already, see whether there's a local FFL who'll handle the paperwork for you for a nominal surcharge.