Considering trimming a rifle barrel.....

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hillman23

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I have a new to me rifle chambered in 338 win mag with a barrel longer than I prefer (26"). I haven't hunted with it yet but have been in the field with rifles with longer barrels (25+") that I've found unwieldy in the woods. I've read that shortening a barrel will not adversely affect accuracy (if a barrel is inherently accurate, removing some length doesn't change inherent accuracy). However there is some degree of performance loss with each inch of barrel reduction (20-40 fps-ish) from my reading. Question I have is, as long as I'm willing to give some degree of cartridge performance to enhance the rifle's handling, what else haven't I considered? This is a venture I've not ever taken and would love to hear feedback from others as to the pros, cons, and experiences from those more sage and thoughtful than I am before I go chopping up a perfectly fine rifle.
 
Some calibers are affected by barrel length much more than others. I'm not familiar with the .338 Win Mag, but I've shortened two .308 barrels from 22" to 20" and all I got was a better handling, more accurate rifle. But I "believe" that magnums will need longer barrels to give that much powder time to burn. Others will have much more experience with them than me however.
 
there is some degree of performance loss with each inch of barrel reduction (20-40 fps-ish) from my reading.

It varies by cartridge and by the starting and ending length, but for a .338 WM going from 26" to 24" or 22", that's about right. If you cut back to 22", I'd expect to lose 100-150 FPS, depending on the load. At practical hunting ranges, it'll make no difference ballistically.

Shortening the barrel just a little usually has no effect on accuracy. That said, shorter barrels are stiffer, so chopping them generally will result in improved accuracy if any change, provided that the job was done right, a good crown put on it.
 
I see no reason not to cut your barrel other than I like long barrels on my own rifles. Oh wait, there is one: report should be louder to the shooter when the barrel is shortened. You may not care about that, though.
 
I’m with you, a 26” 338WM doesn’t sound like a “woods” gun to me either.

I have equipment so such a change doesn’t cost me anything except time. I suppose if I had to pay someone to convert an existing firearm, I might consider just getting another. At least it’s not more money into an existing rifle. Not to mention as soon as I chopped one up I’d find a reason I needed a longer one.
 
I had a 24" 338wm for a while and shot it a ton. The barrel wasn't too obnoxiously loud, if 2-4" shorter will make the rifle more usable for you I say go for it. I am assuming the barrel doesn't have sights that will need relocated.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I should mention that I'm semi-retiring my hunting rifle from the last several years due to it being ammo-finicky and not being stainless steel. It's just too wet here in the Northwest to feel good about taking a blued rifle in the woods season after season. The rifle is a Sako AV chambered in 338 win mag with a factory barrel under 23" (I believe 580mm?). The previous owner had hacked the stock way down too for a shorter LOP (a near criminal act) which ended up making the most comfortable carry rifle I've used. It consistently chronographed muzzle velocities over identical test data from reloading manuals with the shorter barrel and I was never bothered by the muzzle blast. Based on that experience, I was considering a barrel length of about 23" on my new rifle. BTW, no sights to move.
 
I see no reason not to cut your barrel other than I like long barrels on my own rifles. Oh wait, there is one: report should be louder to the shooter when the barrel is shortened. You may not care about that, though.

The change at shooter's ear would not be perceptible to our ears. Maybe a dB or 2.

2" or 4" may not seem like a lot, but when you hunt areas with lots of trees, 26" rifles seem to snag branches about 10 times as frequently as 22" or even 24".

I defiintely prefer 24" or less. The only one I have which is longer is my .375 RUM, which will remain 26" because a cartridge burning 100 grains of powder really does need the length.
 
Well, to be really honest, my 26" barrels are worn by my Encore; so, I guess it doesn't count. :)
The others are 25" (.22 LR), 22" (BAR) and lower (Win. 94) - (add a 5-6 inches muzzle brake to the 22" .223; yes, I know ;)), excepted for my twelve gauge, which can go out with a choice of 18" or 28" depending on the occasion. I never hauled around a bolt action with a 28" bull barrel, but I think I might find one cumbersome, or at least heavy. I never took the P14 hunting either (remains unfired by me to this day).
 
26" is way too long for me. Some people use the 338 with heavy, high BC bullets for long range work. It shoots the same bullets about 200 fps slower than 338 Lapua. If your goal is to shoot elk at 700 yards then every inch of barrel matters.

But if you're thinking about more general purpose work nothing longer than 24" and if I were going to cut it, I'd cut more than 2". I'd probably be content with 22", but might split the difference and go 23". Yea, it'll be louder, but I've never felt anything was an issue until you get below 20".

You'll never know for sure how much velocity you lose unless you shoot it at 26" and then again after you cut it with ammo from the same box, or reloading session. If comparing speeds from different guns with different barrel lengths you get numbers all over the place. I've never seen anyone document a barrel lose 35 fps when cut 1". And that was a 300 WSM. Everything else that I've seen documented was less than 35 fps. Often in the single digits. I'd guess that you'd lose 50-100 fps at most if you go to 23".
 
A friend cuts all of his barrels off. So many that he has earned the nickname of "Hacksaw". He'll lay out a line with tape, carefully cut it with a new fine tooth blade, dress up and contour the outside with a file and work on the crown with a round headed brass bolt coated with valve grinding compound. All of his rifles shoot well and they look fine. A lathe would do the job better.
 
Ive done a similar procedure, only with a “portaband”. Other than that, exactly as you described. Satisfactory results. It was a 29” 6.5x55, I cut it down to 23”. It is noticably louder now, but 29” was kinda rediculous to carry through alder patches. I would say cut away, and cut it 1/4 longer than you want it in case you botch it and have to take it to a gunsmith.
 

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Personally I LIKE long barrels, but Ive lopped a few barrels, and finished as above. Tho I've found the little Lee case trimmer with a tight pilot (depends on barrel etc, if it wiggles don't use it) will actually face a barrel pretty well, as long as your file work gets it close.

I've not had any lose in accuracy, quite the contrary in fact, but again I was working with bad already.

A professionally/properly shortened barrel wont negatively affect accuracy, and if it handles better for you, I say go for it.
 
Just a note: The crown of the muzzle is a very important contributor to accuracy. If you are going to have this done professionally, be finicky about how the muzzle is crowned. Also, the amount of velocity lost depends on the type of powder that is used. Some powders (that used in the Hornady Superformance ammo comes to mind) are much less sensitive to barrel length.

I have been considering shortening for a Ruger M77 6.5 CM with a 26" barrel. (but then I got a good deal on a t/c venture 6.5 CM with a 22" barrel and it doesn't seem so urgent anymore).
 
Personally I LIKE long barrels, but Ive lopped a few barrels, and finished as above. Tho I've found the little Lee case trimmer with a tight pilot (depends on barrel etc, if it wiggles don't use it) will actually face a barrel pretty well, as long as your file work gets it close.

I've not had any lose in accuracy, quite the contrary in fact, but again I was working with bad already.

A professionally/properly shortened barrel wont negatively affect accuracy, and if it handles better for you, I say go for it.

Hey, I've faced a barrel that way.
 
Thanks for all the responses. If/when I get it done, it will be done professionally (my wife won't even trust me to do laundry). There's a gunsmith in town who's been around a long time and seems to have a good reputation. I'm going to shoot it first before anything else, although I'm afraid of the decision I'll face if it ends up being a tack driver! I suppose that long barrel will be a small hassle to endure if the rifle keeps sending projectiles through the same hole....
 
Thanks for all the responses. If/when I get it done, it will be done professionally (my wife won't even trust me to do laundry). There's a gunsmith in town who's been around a long time and seems to have a good reputation. I'm going to shoot it first before anything else, although I'm afraid of the decision I'll face if it ends up being a tack driver! I suppose that long barrel will be a small hassle to endure if the rifle keeps sending projectiles through the same hole....
I dunno man, I've never had a rifle become less accurate after chopping the barrel. Only the opposite, if anything at all.
 
About the worst effect from shortening most rifle barrels is a possible reduction in resale value, assuming the base rifle is collectible in factory condition. I've shortened a number of my rifle barrels over the years using fairly basic tools. As long as the cut is visually square, all nicks have been removed and the crown is evenly restored, things will likely go well. I use a muzzle chamfering tool from Brownells to restore a functional crown. If this is likely the only barrel you'll ever shorten, the best results will come from having a gunsmith shorten and recrown your barrel using a lathe.
 
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