Crimson Trace Laser Zero

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I will try this one more time. The 25yd zero is not to suggest that anyone under normal circumstances would be justified in shooting an assailant at 25yds. It is just the most practical and useful sight in distance for a laser mounted on a handgun intended to be used for self defense.

Some of you posters seem to think a self defense shooting will be a precision event. It won't be. Give yourself every advantage regarding down range damage. Limit the degree to which your sighting system deviates from original point of aim on a shoot through or a miss.

Also, go back and read the "maximum point blank range" part of my previous post. This is the best way to sight in a self defense or hunting firearm for most uses.

I am signing off at this point.
 
What he said.
IMO, if you're able to zero it at 25 yards, given the geometry, POI will be closer to POA at more distances than if zeroed at 10 yards. That said, I might just drink to much coffee to be able to really zero a laser at 25 yards.
:D
 
zeroskillz: have you attempted to hit a 25 yard target with a 642...let alone attempt to zero a laser with the 642 at 75 feet? I believe this thread needs a little laser adjustment...cuz it is way off target for the capability of this light, miniscule barreled J frame.
 
By the time I read through to here, I forgot what gun this was going on.
:rolleyes:
Just the same, I defer to my original post , that mine is zeroed at 10 yards, but if I could zero it further easily, I would.
 
cuz it is way off target for the capability of this light, miniscule barreled J frame.
not beyond capability of the gun.maybe beyond the capability of the nut on the grip.I know that was uncalled for I'm sorry.try sighting in off sand bags you'd be amazed what these light,short barrels are capable of.I know this is not 25 but its also weak hand unsuported at 15 yards.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=56032&d=1175724591
 
Oh...I'm not saying that a better shot than I can hit a distant target with the 642 using sandbags...a vice...etc., however, I train as I would for combat and shooting/moving with the tiny J frame just doesn't equate to 75 foot tack driving. I zero my laser as I intend to defend myself...this is an up close and personal little weapon...and when used that way, it can be effective. That is why I believe the 7 yard or 25 feet laser zeroing makes far more sense than 25 yards. I have other weapons for distant target shooting. A good mechanic uses the right tool for the job...eh?
 
Set the dot to appear just above the sights at 10-15 yards.

This way, if the dot isn't 100% immediately apparent to you, you can find it with the sights.

Hopefully, your sights have some relationship with where you hit.
 
dawg,
your trying to tell me you sighted your laser in while moving.I'm not shure how accurate that would be,I think it would be very time consuming.I think the OP would be better served to sight laser and then practice.
and one more time a 25 yard zero will only be 1/2 inch off center at 7 yards if as you say these are not target guns whats a 1/2 inch it certianly will not be the reason you missed.
and a good mechanic gets paid flat rate.they dont have time to run back to their tool box to get a prybar so they use the screwdriver thats in their hand and get the job done.just like you won't be able to run back to the house to get your target pistol ,because mr. badguy started shooting at you from 25 yards.

OK now I'm done
 
If you adjust your laser dot the distance of the laser from the centerline of the bore at 7 feet, you will roughly be right on at 50' .The problem with "sighting in" a 642 is that it has only rudimentry sights and is DAO. You will have better luck starting at 7' and working out to whatever you feel you can be accurate at. Chuck. I'm saying the 642 is one gun that not everybody can shoot accurately, not that the 642 isn't accurate, you just have a few things working against you. Chuck.
 
No...no...no. I did not say I sighted in the laser while moving. I move when I actually use the weapon. In other words, I do not treat it like a target pistol...using a vice or on a sandbag. Of course you have to sight it in without moving the lay of the weapon. You were done long before.
 
OK once again with visual aid went to range today,my 442 CT grips zero at 25 yard.group on right is at 25 yards (not my best effort,just shot)as you can see group is centered and all shots would be COM. group on left is at 7 yards
and notice group is centered about an inch high and just left of center, but as you say this is not a bullseye gun , plenty good enough for SD.now if you still want to sight your gun for 7 yards go ahead:banghead:.I would suggest OP take advice from someone who at least thinks they are a compotent shot.
those are 3" bulls.

to the OP the further out the better.As to getting better,you have a great training tool at your disposal.every day for a couple weeks take your 442 and practice holding dot on a light switch and dry fire it ( get snapcaps if you want) but try to hold dot on switch until after hammer falls. this will accomplish two things one you'll be a better shot and two the trigger on your 442 will smooth out.
 

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It's unlikely that you will ever have to use your J-frame at a range of greater than 3 yards. OTOH, the closer you zero it, the more difference you get between POA & POI at long ranges. This is complicated by the fact that the laser, unlike the sights, is under the barrel, and displaced laterally. Since it's under the barrel, you will only have one intercept between the laser and the bullet path.
If you zero the laser at a long distance, you will have some difference between POA & POI up close, but it will be less than or equal to the difference at contact distance... about an inch and a quarter. Are you going to be shooting 2 inch groups in that situation? If not, that's plenty precise. If you are, then you probably have time to compensate for the offset.
If you zero it at 2.5 yards, the offset will be less than 1.25" from 0 to 5 yards, but at 15 yards it will be over 6 inches.
DBR's approach is logical; I use a variation of his approach. I figure 30-35 yards is normally the maximum range that I'll be able to see the laser. By sighting in for half that range, I can know that my offset is 1.25" or less anywhere I can see the laser, and less than that for the middle range. I sight in for 50 feet. Coincidentally, this is the range that Crimson Trace says they have zeroed the lasers when they ship them.
 
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