Crooked flash hider - AR

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Lightsped

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I have an A2 flash hider on an AR. When the flash hider is screwed all the way onto the barrel, the hider is crooked. When I say crooked, I mean is is almost upside down. The hider is straight as far as being lined up in order to fire a bullet. No problems there. Its just that the ports are upside down. Do I need a washer or anything between the barrel and flash hider? If so, what size?
 
Lowes doesn't sell crush or peel washers.

A standard AR washer should work on your 1/2" x 36 barrel thread.

A standard .223 thread is 1/2" x 28.

rc
 
Loc-tite doesn't work as mentioned. You can use Rocksett. It is like Loc-Tite but made for high temp applications. It is what the suppressor companies recommend using when installing their quick detach mounts.

http://store.flexbar.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD_MT&Store_Code=FLX&Product_Code=15015&Category_Code=Adhesive-Cement

This still won't address the issue of indexing the flash-hider though. Any of the big places like Midway or Brownell's will have the proper washers.

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Crush-Washer-p/crush%20washer.htm

http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?pageNum=1&tabId=8&categoryId=17059&categoryString=649***20766***8807***11619***
 
I dont think the good folks at Lowes wouldn't be happy...

I've brought an ancient shotgun into a woodworking store to ask about what high-tech adhesive they'd recommend for a stock repair, and they thought it was neat.:)
 
How hot does the muzzle get? Loctite 266/272 is indicated for up to 450 F

This still won't address the issue of indexing the flash-hider though. Any of the big places like Midway or Brownell's will have the proper washers.
Why not? You put the adhesive on, screw the flash hider to where you want it. Let it cure...
 
You're not going to get that 9mm barrel over 450 degrees, unless you're just an ass clown trying to damage your gun.

Tony
 
Don't use locktite. You may want to change out the muzzle device later. There are three types of washers made for "Timing" on muzzle devices (Timing is obtained by the blank portion of the device is located at 6 o'clock to eliminate dust signature. 1. Crush washer 2.Peel washer and number 3. split washer. Easy as pie to use any of them and you'll never have to curse yourself for using lock-tite... You can find the washers at Midway, Brownell's, Del-ton or any AR company. Your rifle will then look and function as designed not not look like a Bubba Job...
 
Loctite isn't permanent. Put the heat gun on it, and it should come off.

I'll give the Loctite a whirl and see how it works out. I have one of those obnoxious Armalite muzzle brakes that needs replaced.
 
Because it's stupid.

The right tool is available, inexpensive, and works better.

You can open a soup can with a claw hammer, but a can opener...
 
A .014" shim (or washer if you will) will rotate your flash hider 1/2 of a turn. Thats a pretty thin washer, so if you add a .042" washer it will move out 1 and 1/2 revolutions.
 
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What's all this loctite talk?
It shouldn't even be under discussion.

Get a crush washer! They're a few bucks.
Why not use both...blue Loc-tite (DO NOT use red if you want to remove it...blue works just fine) and a crush/peel (both work equally well IME)?

I don't know that the loctite would work without something definitive to push against?
Seems to work just fine with or without being against something...but I would want it indexed and tight with a washer as well.

:)
 
I dunno. I've never taken loctite to be a glue to hold it in place, but more as an anti-slip once it was tightened into place. Maybe just because I work on cars so everything is always snug though. LOL
 
I don't think they get it highorder. It's foolish to think loc-tite well secure a FS to a barrel if not torqued to spec.

Well we have to deal with the NJ AWB in my state, which means no threads. I know a few people who have stripped out the threads on their set-screw style comps. They have indeed used an appropriate lock-tite brand adhesive to secure their comps, and they are holding up so far, and that is without threads.

I'd definitely use the right tool for the job if it weren't illegal here, but there are valid reasons for discussing alternatives.
 
Well we have to deal with the NJ AWB in my state, which means no threads. I know a few people who have stripped out the threads on their set-screw style comps. They have indeed used an appropriate lock-tite brand adhesive to secure their comps, and they are holding up so far, and that is without threads.

Why not just get them pinned and welded?
 
Why not just get them pinned and welded?

Because a threaded barrel is an evil feature. It has to arrive here without threads, or with a permanently attached device. Which means if you want to add your own, you have to have the thing assembled out of state and permanently affixed to remain legal. So it's either custom builds, factory option, or some form of slip-on and pin/setscrew. If you want to DIY and don't have a machine shop it's set screws or adhesives.
 
Don't use Loc-Tite, it won't work well as you might think and the stuff begins to smoke pretty bad when it gets hot.
You will need a set of barrel vice jaws to properly torque the flash hider down.

I would take the rifle to a gunsmith familiar with AR15 rifles and let him install the flash hider using a crush or peel washer.
He shouldn't charge more than $20 for the service.
 
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