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Cutting Aluminum Cans

R

rodwha

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2011
Messages
4,056
Location
Texas
I see this cap making tool that cuts the cups from a sheet of aluminum taken from a beer or soda can. So how are people removing the top and base of the cans?
 
Seems the top would be rather difficult to chop through. I do have tin snips, guess I should see how challenging it is. I have plenty of caps right now but this occasional shortage that pops up now and again makes it seem prudent. And I like tinkering with things and making my own.
 
rodwha said:
Seems the top would be rather difficult to chop through. I do have tin snips, guess I should see how challenging it is. I have plenty of caps right now but this occasional shortage that pops up now and again makes it seem prudent. And I like tinkering with things and making my own.
Click to expand...
Don't cut the cap. Cut around it and pitch. Cans have been used for shims since the steel ones came out. Or the old Falstaff cans
 
You can cut through the top/down into the side right at the pop top hole.
Then just turn 90 degrees and cut the top off.
No problemmo.
:cool:

(or just stab through the side -- and finish cutting the top off with the scissors)
:evil:
 
I have done a couple of thousand cans for this. With a thin sharp knife stab in just above the bottom .About 1/8" to 3/16" above the bottom where it is full size. Any lower and it's too thick. Work the knife around the bottom and cut it off. With a scissors cut up the can to the top. Use the scissors again to cut around the top. Once again about 1/8" down from where it's full size.
 
I just push the point of the scissors through the side of the can below the top. Then begin cutting the caps off. Once both ends are off I cut down the side to lay them out flat. Takes just a few seconds to cut them up to use as shims.
 
Are caps once again hard to find? If so how long has it been going on? And is there a light anywhere to be seen?
 
My only issue with the Rem caps is the firing compound sometimes falls out, though it can be put back in and fired. I hope these homemade caps work that well. I’m not sure what I’d do if they are. I guess buy more priming compound mix.

I found I have 10 new tins in the package and 3 in my shooting bag, one nearly empty. A nice little stash.

I’ve been punching aluminum caps. It’s pretty easy and most look pretty good. I received a bottle of acetone and a small dropper. These little things are fiddly so I’m thinking a piece of 1x4 might make a good loading board, something to hold them steady and upright, and that doesn’t matter if a little mess happens. I should see how it goes before I start making projects I suppose. Then again I’m already in this deep 😆
 
rodwha said:
My only issue with the Rem caps is the firing compound sometimes falls out, though it can be put back in and fired.
Click to expand...

That's my issue with them as well and then you have to dig through a tin of caps to find them and sometimes they're not there which means they fell out before packaging. Not to mention you have to inspect every single cap before you put it on the gun. That's why I use CCI. No worries.
 
hawg said:
That's my issue with them as well and then you have to dig through a tin of caps to find them and sometimes they're not there which means they fell out before packaging. Not to mention you have to inspect every single cap before you put it on the gun. That's why I use CCI. No worries.
Click to expand...
I’ve wanted to try CCI caps but it requires the standard #11s (non magnum), which I’ve never been able to find except online as sleeves of ten tins, which is a bit much to just try them. It does suck that you have to peep inside the caps to ensure they’re primed and will pop. I’m excited to try these homemade caps.
 
All of my CCI #10 are magnum but the only thing I really use them on is my rifles. I have pinch fit them on my pistols a few times and I don't see any difference.
 
For me the magnums require a second strike with both pistols. Sure wish I could find a tin of standard #11s to try out. Probably just fine for my rifle.
 
hawg said:
Firing on a second strike indicates they're not fully seated. Standard #11's will be the same way.
Click to expand...
The Track of the Wolf nipples I got were designed specifically for CCI #11 standards. I can’t ever fine them but found Rem #10s worked just fine. I’d love to try some…
 
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