Cylinder looseness

[Fat Boy]

The local shop has a Colt Army 38 special available. The gun is nickel-finished, with wood grips containing the Colt medallion.

I have an interest in this old gun, but would buy it to be shot, not stored in the safe, or displayed on a wall.

Here is the question; in running the gun through my checks, I cock the hammer, release by pulling the trigger and lower the hammer. Keeping the trigger pulled, I check the cylinder...it is probably as close to what I understand as "welded to the frame" at this point as any gun I have ever handled. Cylinder gap is minimal. Otherwise, the gun checks out.

Now, when the hammer is down and the trigger is released, the cylinder is a bit loose in the frame, actually moves a bit in the frame. I can note a bit of gap between the frame and crane when doing this.

I apologize for asking what has probably already been asked, but wanted to see if this is normal for these old guns and not indicative of problems, and if so, what type of "fix" am I looking at?

Thanks!

 

[RevolvingGarbage]

Well, my RG .38spl is the same way, welded at lockup but wiggles a decent amount otherwise. It shoots perfectly fine, hasnt blown up on me even after 50 +P TMJ rounds.That's an RG though, and I can tell you I would expect a little more from a Colt.

 

[10X]

With Colts, with the trigger pulled, fully back, the cylinder should be solid.

With the trigger released, the cylinder will wiggle a little. That is correct for the design.

 

[MachIVshooter]

With Colts, with the trigger pulled, fully back, the cylinder should be solid.

With the trigger released, the cylinder will wiggle a little. That is correct for the design

Exactly. The Colt "bank vault lock-up" only happens at the last moment before discharge. Many old top-breaks are also this way, with the stop being pushed further into the cylinder cuts when the trigger is pulled.

S&W, Ruger and others are in full lock up when the hammer is cocked, with the hand pushing the cylinder against it's stop.

 

[rmfnla]

This question comes up on THR at least once a month.

 

[Old Fuff]

It's hard to diagnose a revolvers's ills over the Internet, but from your post I suspect the carne (the hinge the cylinder swings out on) is slightly sprung, which explains the the frame/crane gap you mentioned. The condition is not hard to correct, but it takes a 'smith with serious Colt experience.

The wiggle in the bolt may be because the bolt screw is loose, and tightning the screw is easy, but getting to it isn't unless you know what you are doing.

If I'm right (big "if") correcting these two issues may well fix most of the rotational movement in the cylinder when the trigger is forward. When the trigger is all of the way back there shouldn't be any movement.

The Army Special became the Official Police in 1927 (name change only). It continued on under the new name until it was discontinued in about 1978.

There are very few qualified gunsmiths left that know how to fix there guns, and someone that doesn't know can make a real mess of things. I think all it needs is a minor tune-up, and Colt might, or might not do it because of the gun's age and availability of parts. However it cost's nothing to ask.

When working like they should they make fine shooters, and are exceptionally accurate. Use ammunition that takes into consideration the revolver's age.

 

[Fat Boy]

I appreciate the responses; I apologize if I am asking a question that has been asked/answered previously-

 

[Old Fuff]

I apologize if I am asking a question that has been asked/answered previously-

Not to worry, we are here to answer questions and solve problems. The High Road built its reputation on expertise.