S&W 586

[Jake H]

I recently acquired a pre-lock S&W model 586 with 4" barrel. It is in good shape and I would rate it at about 97% condition. It has the firing-pin mounted on the hammer and has the old-style cylinder release button. I believe it is "pre-dash" because it is stamped "MOD 586" with no -# after it?

It seems to be mechanically sound. It locks up tight with a minimal amount of endshake, the barrel/cylinder gap is about .004", good timing, the trigger is good, and the barrel is exceptionally smooth and looks good.

But I have noticed one thing that is bugging me. And I do not have enough experience with revolvers to find the problem and fix it.

When cycling the action, I can feel that on three of the six cylinders the hammer is harder to cock in SA mode, and the trigger is harder to pull in DA mode. Furthermore, on the three cylinders that have the increased trigger pull, there is hardly any endshake/cylinder play. It almost feels like the cylinder is welded to the frame. But on the three cylinders that work smoothly, there is a bit more endshake/cylinder play.

When cycling the action it feels like this:
-easy
-easy
-a little tight
-a little more tight
-tightest
-easy

What could the problem be? Could it be something minor such as fouling, or something major such as a bent frame?

Thanks,
Jake Hayes

 

[plexreticle]

The space between the forceing cone and cylinder could be a little bit tight. Try cleaning up the face of the cylinder and the forcing cone and see if that helps. You can check it with feeler gauges also if you have a set.

 

[Jake H]

Thanks for the tip. I checked that already and it wasn't the problem. I have narrowed the problem down to the cylinder assembly. When I open the cylinder, hold the release button back and cycle the action, the problem goes away. I am beginning to think it is a bent ejector rod. When I spin the cylinder the rod does wobble a bit.

Jake Hayes

 

[Confederate]

You might try dry firing it a lot to see if it will wear in. I also assume you're cycling the gun with no cases inserted. If that's the case then I doubt it's a headspace problem in the rear. The turning star that's engaged by the pawl/hand might be tight or might have some crud or even a burr or two. Look it over and see if there's anything that looks out of place.

The first 586/686 production guns were carefully manufactured by Smith because they wanted it to have a great reputation right up front. In fact, the production pistols they were cranking out were right up there with tuned Pythons. I was a dealer at the time and a number went through my hands and all of them were primo quality.

They're beautiful guns.

 

[Slugo]

Jake H, please read the following info I received from S&W >>

Dear S&W Customer:

We have received your email regarding the L frame modification program. We would ask that you check to see if you have a –2 or –3 after your model 581, 586, 681, or 686, or a little m stamped above the model number (which indicates the modification has been performed). If you do not have one of the items listed, then please follow the instructions below:

We would like you to forward your handgun with a letter asking for the L frame modification along with your return address (No P.O. Boxes) and your phone number. You may return the handgun to our facility by contacting FedEx at 800-463-3339 to request pick up at your location or take the parcel to a FedEx facility or Authorized Ship Center. When you complete the FedEx airbill, in Section 7 indicate "bill to recipient" and insert your return number as 2155-0874-9. The package must be shipped using FedEx Standard Overnight service. There will be no charge to you to return the handgun. Address the parcel and the FedEx airbill to:

Customer Service
2100 Roosevelt Avenue
Springfield, MA 01104

If you have any further questions, please feel free to give us a call at 800-331-0852.

Yours truly,



Kate Fredette
Customer Support

 

[Slugo]

Regarding my post above from S&W >>

I had a 6" barrel original 686 and I was notified that it was on recall. I forget what the exact problem was, but I sent it to S&W and they corrected it. They also stamped the letter "M" right next to the model number located inside the cylinder. Whatever your binding problem is, they will fix it free of charge. Give them a call and explain the condition.

Hope this helps. I'd love to see your mint condition 586. I really prefer blued revolvers!

 

[Steve C]

Sounds like what happens when someone who learned gun handling from Hollywood was flipping the cylinder out and in with a flip of the wrist. Its a good way to bend, jam, or generally bugger a revolver up. The crane could be slightly bent or some other moving parts been tweeked. Kind of like a bent frame on a car, it may look like its perfectly OK but you still feel something is not right when operating it.

 

[Jake H]

Thanks for the replies! I will probably send it in to S&W. It does not have an "m" or anything stamped on it so I guess it needs the modification.

I am sort of reluctant to send it to S&W though. I had an endshake problem with a brand new S&W 686 (with internal lock). I sent it in and they didn't do a darn thing to it. That revolver also had a large barrel/cylinder gap. They seemed to think that a .010"+ gap is acceptable. So on to the next question. Are there any good, well know revolver smiths that could fix it? I would also like to have an action/trigger job done if I send it off, and maybe a few more things. Suggestions?

Thanks a bunch!
Jake Hayes

 

[swampgator]

I forget what the exact problem was, but I sent it to S&W and they corrected it.

The problem is with the the hammer nose and frame bushing. No dash models can bind up here. The later -1 etc had a new design.

 

[asknight]

How is the empty cylinder binding on the hammer nose bushing? If it's making contact with empty chambers, then it would be impossible to close a loaded cylinder, no?