Cylinder timing/lockup question

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Rex B

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I recently acquired a well-used .22 revolver.
It's one of those cheapo Heritage guns, but I like it for a cheap plinker. I also have a mint Super Single Six for formal occasions [Wink]
Anyway, I'm comparing the cylinder rotation between the two revolvers as the mechanism goes through a cycle. On the Heritage, as the hammer drops, the cylinder rotates forward, then drops back as the hammer is about 2/3 home. With the hammer down, I can rotate the cyclinder forward about 1/16" and hear/feel the locking tab snap into the indentations in the cylinder. This happens exactly the same way on both the .22 and the .22WMR cylinder. The cylinders notches themselves have no wear, just light cirumferential marking.
Obviously, this tells me that the cylinder is not aligned with the barrel when the gun fires. So far I've only shot CB caps out of it, but I'm not about to shoot anything more without getting it checked out.

Which reminds me: I also noticed, while cleaning it, that there was some sort of buildup on one side of the forcing cone. I dug it out with a small screwdriver. This was well before I noticed the rotational issue, but now I see the connection.

So, is this something I can fix myself by changing a part or two, or do I need to ship this thing back to the factory?
 
Cylinder alignment or cylinder timing issues are best taken care of by the factory.

Whatever the problem is, they know how to diagnose it, fix it, and they have the new parts to do it.
 
maybe so

...but so far they have not replied to my email inquiry, posted on their website Sautrday.
 
It does sound like the cylinder lockup 'timing' is quite a bit off, so yes, a trip back to the factory or "Authorized Service Center" is needed.

Thats why you had crud buildup on only one side.

I used to have a cheapy .22 that sent ALMOST as much lead downrange as it sent sideways...it was much more dangerous to be standing beside the shooter than it was to be directly in front... ;) :D :evil: ;)
 
It is going to need a new hand (the lever that pushes the cylnder into position)

they will have to do it ......... or a gunsmith ( and good ones are real hard to find now a days.)
 
gimme a hand

Well, I'm not averse to a little metalworking, but this sounds like a tedious job

disassemble
install new hand
assemble
check for function
disassemble
file a wee bit
assemble
check for function
repeat as neccessary.

doesn't sound like the sort of work I enjoy.

OTOH, Heritage says they will work on it for the cost of the parts, no charge for bench labor.

I guess shipping it to them does not require an FFL, but getting it back might?
 
Shouldn't require FFL

"I guess shipping it to them does not require an FFL, but getting it back might?"

It shouldn't, unless Heritage requires that it be redelivered to one. S & W does not - they sent my repaired gun directly to my home (it came UPS, signature required).

A word of caution, FWIW. If you have to pay the shipping costs (FedEx or UPS overnight), you may have more tied up in the gun than it's worth when it comes back to you. Overnight shipping can cost $40 - $60 (one way), depending on the shipper and distance. If you have to pay shipping both ways, there's $80+ for a gun you can buy new for $129. :scrutiny:

Just my 2 cents. :)
 
If you are looking for fast, no-hastle service then call us at (305) 685-5966 and we will make arrangements for a Federal Express pick-up at your convenience for a discounted rate of $20.00
There is NO CHARGE FOR BENCH TIME. We will only charge the actual cost of the replaced part plus $15.00 for shipping and handling.

So
I paid $100 for the gun
The hand is $8
Shipping TO is $20
S&H back is $15
That puts me into it for $143 for a used gun that has been checked out by the factory and returned to spec.
Street price new for this model is $219 (last gun show)

Compared to the LNIB Super Single Six I just bought for $200, this ain't looking like a good deal :scrutiny:

On the other hand (NPI) I can't in good conscience sell this thing for what I have in it.

Maybe I'll order the part and see if I can get it to work right.
But I'll take it apart first and see what I find.
 
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