CZ 527 re-chambered to .221 Rem Fireball...should I dump it?

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FlorianGeyer

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I recently bought a used CZ 527 American that had been re-chambered to .221 Remington Fireball. I paid $450. The salesman told me that the rifle had been re-chambered "probably from .222 or .223" by a local gunsmith who had a reputation for competence. My big mistake was not paying attention to the word "probably" in the above sentence. When I got home, I noticed that the original stamp on the action is ".22 Hornet" (said stamp being conveniently located under the crappy Simmons scope, where one is not apt to notice it).

I am now wondering if I have made a terrible mistake. Besides the chamber, the crucial difference between a CZ 527 chambered in .22 Hornet and those specifically made for .221 Remington Fireball is the rifling twist. According to CZ's website, their .22 Hornet rifling twist is 1:16. The .221 CZ 527 has a 1:12 twist. That seems like a substantial difference. So here's the question that I've been losing sleep over: can I expect this re-chambered rifle to be as accurate as a factory .221? Should I cut my losses and dump this gun, or should I keep working with it?

Preliminary results have not been encouraging. I made some loads, and fired about 100 rounds through the CZ. The performance at 50 yards was disappointing, to say the least. I was firing from a sandbag rest, and most groups were at least 1". There were two 5 shot groups that were 1/2 inch.

To be fair, I have to say that there may be three mitigating factors here. One is that I am not an experienced rifle shot; I've seldom sat at a bench with a rifle and tried for super-small groups. Second, the scope on it is not only cheap, but it was obviously poorly mounted--the gap between the top and bottom front rings is visibly crooked. Third, I could have put together 100 really bad loads. I was using 40 grain V-Max and some 36 grain Barnes Varmint Grenades, using IMR 4227 powder.

The answer to the question "Is this a good gun?" depends on the purpose for which the gun is intended, so I feel I should say a little about that.

My purpose for buying this gun is to educate myself about handloading rifles for accuracy. The .221 has a reputation for being a very accurate round (much like the .222). Indeed, it's satisfyingly accurate in my Thompson Contender, for which I've been making handloads for a while. I would call myself a competent reloader (I've loaded for a variety of pistol calibers and for my AR over the last couple of decades), but I have never taken an interest in precision reloading for the rifle. Now that I'm retired, I have the time to do something like this.

For this purpose, I need a reasonably accurate rifle, so I set out to find a good used rifle in .22x (.221, .222, or .223). I realize that there are more inherently accurate rifle and caliber combinations than the CZ in .221 or .222 (e.g. a custom-built 6mm PPC bench rest rifle), but buying a bench rest gun would be a waste of money for me--my capabilities as both handloader and shooter are far below the potential accuracy of such an expensive gun. Hence my decision to go with a .22x caliber bolt action rifle. I figured that when or if I got to the point where I felt I could shoot better than the gun, I could always buy a better rifle.

Now I'm in a quandary. Should I keep working with the .221 or dump it? I could get a good scope and proper rings for the gun, and see if that helps. I could try some different bullet weights and powders (if only I could find some powder). But if the rifling twist for this gun is working against accuracy, then I will be wasting my time and (limited) money. What do the gurus advise?
 
Cut your losses.
Or resign yourself to using 35-40 grain bullets.

1-16 is way to slow to ever give you the accuracy you should expect out of a .221 Fireball with any heavier bullet weights.


And just so you know in the future, you can't 're-chamber' a long cartridge to a shorter one.
A. .221 Fireball could be re chambered to .222, .223, or .222 Rem Magnum.
But a .222 or .223 can't be re-chambered to a .221 without cutting the barrel shank off and re threading it to set the chamber back far enough to cut a new chamber.

You can re-chamber a shorter cartridge to a longer one.
But you can't 're-chamber' a longer chamber to a shorter one.

Were I you, I would return the gun to where you bought it and demand my money back.
It was represented as something it could not have been by the salesman.

rc
 
rcmodel said:
Cut your losses.
Or resign yourself to using 35-40 grain bullets.

1-16 is way to slow to ever give you the accuracy you should expect out of a .221 Fireball with any heavier bullet weights.


And just so you know in the future, you can't 're-chamber' a long cartridge to a shorter one.
A. .221 Fireball could be re chambered to .222, .223, or .222 Rem Magnum.
But a .222 or .223 can't be re-chambered to a .221 without cutting the barrel shank off and re threading it to set the chamber back far enough to cut a new chamber.

You can re-chamber a shorter cartridge to a longer one.
But you can't 're-chamber' a longer chamber to a shorter one.

Were I you, I would return the gun to where you bought it and demand my money back.
It was represented as something it could not have been by the salesman.

100% agree with this post.
 
1:16 twist is to slow for almost everything out there except .22. I think that's even a little slow for the .22 WMR. Have you asked if they would take it back in trade for something else or consignment? I'm betting it never shot well so someone had it converted.
 
Did you verify the twist rate? I had a CZ 527 in .223 that had a different twist than the website's specs. I looked at a rifle exactly like yours in a gun store in Plano TX and the original .22 Hornet marking was obvious along with the .221 Fireball. I almost bought that one myself. I would shoot it some more before giving up on it. Sounds like it would be a great coyote gun, if you aren't satisfied, some varmint hunter would probably love to have it.
 
Did I verify the twist rate?

REWTEX Wrote: Did you verify the twist rate? I had a CZ 527 in .223 that had a different twist than the website's specs. I looked at a rifle exactly like yours in a gun store in Plano TX and the original .22 Hornet marking was obvious along with the .221 Fireball. I almost bought that one myself. I would shoot it some more before giving up on it. Sounds like it would be a great coyote gun, if you aren't satisfied, some varmint hunter would probably love to have it.

First, yes I did verify the twist rate. It came out between 15.3 and 15.5 inches for a complete turn of the cleaning rod. I don't know if this is because my rod slips a little when I pull it through the rifling (brush attached), or if this is indeed a real difference from the nominal twist rate.

Second...you looked at the gun I bought. (Gunmaster, right?) Yes, the .222 Hornet stamp was there and I should have looked closely enough to see it. This post is not about how I've been wronged, but about the gun. So guys, please don't tell me to take it back. I messed up by being too eager to buy and not thinking things through. It's my fault. But that's not what I'm asking for help about. If the gun gets a thumbs down, I am quite capable of selling it at a minimal loss...or profit.

What I want to know is: will this rifling twist stabilize rounds I would reasonably expect to shoot in .221 Remington Fireball? Will it have an effect on the gun's accuracy? If the answers indicate that there's no reason I can't shoot .221 accurately in this gun, then I will put my new scope on it, make some more loads, and keep working with it. If "no", then I will sell it and buy something else in a similar caliber and price range. I just don't want to waste time or money working on a gun that is inherently flawed.

It's actually a mystery to me why the twist rate for .22 Hornet and .221 FB--and for that matter, .222 Rem--should be so very different. I guess nobody would load anything much heavier than a 40 grain bullet a Hornet. Worse, when I check the stability factor for the bullets I have in the 35-40 grain range on the JBM site (http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi), they all come out as being unstabilized at the 1/16 twist rate. This seems to mean that even light bullets won't work at this twist rate. So how come the .22 Hornet ever worked? I notice they sell special .22 Hornet bullets in .224" diameter. Maybe I have to use those? If so, that's a thumbs down.

Thank you for your answers so far!
 
Wow, small world. Florian, I didn't mean my earlier post to insinuate anything about the dealers misleading you. I didn't even think about it being the same one. Like I said earlier, that rifle caught my eye. I am no help on the twist rate vs accuracy with the bullet weights you are dealing with, but I think you have a valid point about the difference in twist rates between the .22 Hornet and .221. Maybe the twist rate wasn't right for the .22 Hornet to start with. I am a big fan of CZ rifles in general which is why I would give it a few more chances before dumping it. I have always had really good dealings with Gunmasters. They might work with you if you continue the be unsatisfied. Good luck with it.
 
My CZ 527 22 Hornet shoots 50 grain flat base bullets great. It has a 1 in 16 twist 22" bbl. It will not shoot 50gr boattail bullets. I have difficulty seeing a smith rebarreling a 22 hornet to 221 fire ball. The bolt face would require modification. Not so with the 222 or 223 but the 16 twist will not stabilize long bullets. I would try Hogdon Lil Gun or H335 maybe 322.

Fix the mounts if you decide to keep it. That 527 is an accurate firearm. I have 2 of them both are very accurate.

Shoot straight

Bob
 

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scottishkat wrote: ...I have difficulty seeing a smith rebarreling a 22 hornet to 221 fire ball. The bolt face would require modification.
Yeah, that's another mystery to me. The rifle functions OK, but extraction appears to be a bit iffy. I'm not familiar enough with how the bolt face is supposed to look for a .221 versus a .22 Hornet to tell exactly what, if anything, the smith did to the bolt. I do know that the Hornet is a rimmed round, and the .221 is not, so that might account for the extraction thing. Extraction does happen if you work the bolt smartly, and it's not a major concern, as I don't want to throw the brass around much anyway.

I do very much like the design of this CZ rifle, by the way. I would have no reservations if I hadn't complicated my life by buying one that was rechambered. And I do have to wonder why the rechambering was done in the first place.

Do you use the bullets specifically marketed for .22 Hornet? I suspect that they are shorter than most other bullets, thus making for more stability at slower spin...but that's just my theory.

As I said, I'd really rather not be subjected to the limitation of using these Hornet bullets for my .221 loads.
 
It's actually a mystery to me why the twist rate for .22 Hornet and .221 FB--and for that matter, .222 Rem--should be so very different. I guess nobody would load anything much heavier than a 40 grain bullet a Hornet. Worse, when I check the stability factor for the bullets I have in the 35-40 grain range on the JBM site (http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi), they all come out as being unstabilized at the 1/16 twist rate. This seems to mean that even light bullets won't work at this twist rate. So how come the .22 Hornet ever worked? I notice they sell special .22 Hornet bullets in .224" diameter. Maybe I have to use those? If so, that's a thumbs down.

The 22 Hornet was designed for a 46 grain bullet. Nobody ever dreamed that anyone would consider a 55 grain bullet in it, much less the 60-70+ grain bullets now available in .224. Some older Hornets used .223 bullets, but .224 bullets have been standard for decades and are widely available.

Since you own the gun and don't plan on taking it back, you should stop worrying about what it might do and take it to the range and find out what it actually does.

Get some .244 40 to 50 grain bullets, load them up and see if they stabilize.
 
Do you use the bullets specifically marketed for .22 Hornet? I suspect that they are shorter than most other bullets, thus making for more stability at slower spin...but that's just my theory.

I have had great luck with the 50 gr Hornaday sp or spsx the only bullets I've seen marked Hornet have been 45gr. The shorter bullets will stabilize better in slower twist rifles.
 
Check out PAC-NOR. If you want to re barrel.

Or

That action is a great action and you might be able to sell the rifle and scope separate and come out ahead.
 
I realize I am a dumbass, but couldn't you just get a new barrel?

Just so you know, I recently purchased a CZ 527 Varmint in 204 Ruger. I have about 82 rounds down the barrel. I have had two 5 shot groups about the size of my 8mm mauser bullet hole. That's 12% absolute on top of one another. another 3 or 5 groups all five shots, with bullet holes touching. At 100 yards. I am too slow to take the target to 200 during range no shoot times!

I am old, fat, and blind, and as I said, basically a dumbass, but from my limited personal experience the CZ 527 is an awesome rifle worth salvaging.

Good Luck.
 
I'd re barrel the action.

Get what you want how you want it; then shoot the snot out of it.
 
What weight bullets did you use in the loads that you weren't happy with?

There are a bunch of other variables you should eliminate before you decide that the gun can't shoot. Get a good scope - you're going to need one anyway - and mount it properly. Second, borrow a good gun and see if you can shoot any better than the results you're getting with this rifle. The cause may be a loose nut behind the trigger. :rolleyes:

While CZ uses a 1:12 twist for their 221s, Remington uses a 1:14, so a 1:16 twist isn't a far fetched as it might seem.

Final fact:

1:16 barrels have been shooting 40 grain bullets accurately in 22 Hornets and 22LRs for decades.
 
I'd re barrel the action.

Get what you want how you want it; then shoot the snot out of it.
Amen! Figure out what you'd most like the gun to be, and make it that. You've got a good base to work with.
 
Wait a second:

Cheap Simmons scope?
Visibly crooked mounts?
Not an experienced rifle shot?
Two 5-shot 1/2" groups?

I don't think I would blame the rifle just yet.
 
Yeah, get the scope and mounts figured out and test it from a rest. Then (if necessary) rebarrel or sell.
 
Step back and think....

man, I'd NEVER re-barrel, particularly if the bolt face is set up for the Hornet. You're just compounding the problem. You've already said it doesn't eject corectly. And, a new barrel will most likely be at least 2/3rds the cost of a new gun.

So now, you've got a butchered rifle with a non-factory barrel with a lot of money sunken into it. And it's worth less than the factory original. Be different if the bolt/ejector were compatable

Me, I'd try to get it to shoot with the short body Hornet bullets. If it won't for whatever odd reason, I'd sell it to someone that's willing to get it converted back to Hornet. If you want to do that, I'll buy it and get it done right. I'm gonna get a CZ in Hornet anyway.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. The consensus seems to be that the 1:16 twist is not necessarily unfit for the .221 loads using light bullets, so I'm going to get a good scope, and mount it properly on the rifle. Then I'm going to stop worrying and just shoot it for a while, with a variety of loads. If I'm still not happy, I will put the cheap scope back on and sell the darn thing to some other poor unsuspecting noob. In the end, I will have learned something.
 
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