CZ 75B Impressive...

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KMO

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I closed a FTF deal today for a CZ 75B with the polished stainless finish. This pistol has never been fired, and I am impressed with it's quality...anxious to get it out on the range. Just two observations have me scratching my head. The 3-dot white sights are downright dingy in color. I took it in a dark closet to see if maybe they were night sights, but no...just dingy. That can be changed easily enough. The other minor disappointment is the use of Phillips head grip screws...also an easy fix. Overall though...a very nice pistol ;)
 
CZ has always used a luminescent paint for their stock sights. It's dingy. It will hold a glow if illuminated by a flashlight or another bright light source. But using the light UNLESS you do it carefully, will mess up your night vision and offset any advantage gained by a glowing sight.

Get night sights, eventually,if you think you need them -- but look for some with a white "surround" around the tritium capsules.

The factory paint is a poor-man's night sight, and it's not really all that effective. Find you some BRIGHT fingernail polish or fluorescent model paint and redo the dots -- using a toothpick to drop the paint into the indentations, after you've scratched the factory paint out. It'll look and work better and you can find colors that work better for you.
 
I just bought an unfired 85 pre B a couple of weeks ago. I own a couple of other 9's and have shot a fair number of makes other than those I own, this is the first 9 that I truly take pleasure in shooting. My sights were as Walt described, since my pre b has a staked post mount up front, a sight change doesn't look like quite as simple a matter as the newer ones. For right now I just blacked it out with a Sharpie and that gave my aging eyes a much better picture for paper punching. I think you'll enjoy your purchase.
 
Just had my satin stainless out today. Did a trigger job on it a few weeks ago, and it's simply fantastic now. Same complaints as you have, but nothing more. This is my favorite pistol.
 
Like Walt said, dig out the yellow glow paint, re apply some white testors with a toothpick. Great guns!;)
 
Throw on a set of Trijicons or Meprolights and you'll be happy. I like the Hogue grip for the 75. Soon enough you'll be hooked and want to talk to CGW for the trigger upgrades. Overall a great shooting pistol and very accurate.


-Mike



Trijicons for the CZ


CZ75BHoguesCGWMeproLites_zps1cce83a1.jpg
 
My goal is to match ShipWreck and his "wheel of Berettas" and start showing off my "wheel of CZ-75s" :D
 
I put the thin aluminum grips on my 85 and changed the front sight to a fiber optic. Trigger job----------of course!
Better ergonomics than any of my 9mms, including the Hi Power and 1911.
Great Pistol!
str1
 
Peacebutready,

I have no proof of it's unfired condition, however it was packed in it's original case in a plastic bag with the owners manual, cleaning brush and test target, breech area was very clean. The target was dated 1991. LGS occasionally seems to get estate collections and puts them in the pre owned display case. In this case there were two matching CZ85's with ser#'s about 50 apart, . Myself and a friend were both eying CZ's for a while when these showed up. The problem now is that we often shoot together, thus we're having to check ser#'s before leaving the range to make sure we have our own gun. BTW the unfired situation has been thoroughly rectified.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KMO
Is there any point in replacing the factory plastic guide rod?
Nope, and it actually serves as a shock absorber and limits impact on the bbl mount position.
If you just get nervous after 30-40K rds, they cost a couple of dollars.
 
Is there any point in replacing the factory plastic guide rod?
1. Plastic guide rods can break...steel doesn't. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=149765
2. The added weight helps reduce muzzle flip.
3. Some shooters experience less felt recoil with steel guide rods.
A couple of notes:
Up until the late 90's CZ used steel guide rods in their guns and switched to plastic as a cost savings measure.
CZ Custom uses stainless steel guide rods in all but a few of their custom guns.
Steel guide rods should be avoided with CZ alloy-framed guns.

Are steel guide rods needed? No
Do they add a nicer touch to the gun? IMO, yes.
 
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Otto said:
1. Plastic guide rods can break...steel doesn't. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/inde...owtopic=149765
2. The added weight helps reduce muzzle flip.
3. Some shooters experience less felt recoil with steel guide rods.

1. Steel guide rods can also break (or bend). One fellow posting here mentioned that he had it happen with a Browning Hi-Power. I would suggest that it's not a big issue for either material. (I've seen one Glock plastic guide rod fail, but the gun continued to function properly...)

2. The added weight of a steel guide rod COULD be a plus, but most of us, unless we go the TUNGSTEN Guide Rod route (i.e., a very HEAVY guide rod), are UNLIKELY to notice a difference. Muzzle flip MIGHT be less, but I've never seen any photographic (or other evidence) of that fact.

3. Re: felt recoil: The affect on recoil (due to the increase in weight/mass) when a steel guide rod is used would arguably be like (but less than) firing the gun with one extra round in the mag. I don't think most folks could really notice that difference.

I've never heard of anyone complaining about how FELT RECOIL increases from the first round in a 17-round mag through the last round -- and that change in the gun's total weight (which has an effect on FELT RECOIL) would be a MUCH GREATER than the change in mass/weight introduced when swapping a plastic guide rod for a metal one.

Some shooters also claim better accuracy when using steel guide rods -- but I have yet to see such claims proven. (A Ransom Rest test might be a good place to start.) The bullet leaves the barrel before the slide has moved more than a small part of an inch, and I don't see how a steel guide rod could have that much influence on results at that point in the firing cycle.

I've always been told that consistent barrel to slide lockup is the key to accuracy/precision with aimed fire. A lot of folks switch from factory CZ recoil springs to Wolff recoil springs. The Wolff springs were first made for the CZ "clones" made by Tanfoglio (and later imported by Witness). Those guns use a much larger diameter guide rod than does CZ. That larger-diameter recoil spring, when used with a CZ guide rod, allows the spring to move around a lot more during cycling -- and you'll see signs of the movement on the barrel and inside the slide and frame. Lots of slop, there.

If the guide rod is so important to accuracy I would expect to see changes in accuracy when going to a larger diameter recoil spring -- as the guide rod can't play a big role in handling that larger-diameter spring. I haven't heard anyone complaining about poorer accuracy from the larger diameter recoil spring.

Otto said:
A couple of notes:
Up until the late 90's CZ used steel guide rods in their guns and switched to plastic as a cost savings measure.

CZ Custom uses stainless steel guide rods in all but a few of their custom guns.

Steel guide rods should be avoided with CZ alloy-framed guns.

CZ did change to plastic for some models around then, but they NEVER used steel guide rods in their alloy-framed guns.

I think my earliest CZ " -- a 75B Turkish contract overrun model -- had a plastic guide rod; that was in the mid or late 90's. My only CZ right now is the second one I bought in 1999 -- a Satin Nickel 85 Combat, and it has a plastic guide rod. All of the pre-B CZs I've owned had metal guide rods, but all of them were the little dinky guide rods which are about 2 inches long. They don't do much until the slide is almost fully to the rear.

Way back, a bunch of us used the pins from a Stanley door hinge, which is all brass, as guide rods for the compact models -- until we decided the plastic ones were durable and didn't degrade performance. Maybe CZ should have tried BRASS for their alloy guns? I think that brass may be softer than the aluminum alloy used in their alloy-framed guns; I'm pretty sure the brass is softer than stainless steel.

As for CZ Custom using steel with their custom guns? I understand. But I wonder if they do that to PRE-EMPT complaints: "I paid $XXXX for that gun and I'll be darned if I want a plastic Guide Rod for that kind of money..."

Question: does CZ use a steel guide rod in their 9mm 75B SA model when the Custom Shop tweakes it? That one doesn't use a full-length guide rod like the otherwise similar .40 75B SA model.

As for avoiding steel guide rods in alloy-framed guns, that is probably a good idea. I was once told that by the head gunsmith at CZ that using steel in a alloy-framed gun was a bad idea and any damage from the steel guide rod would not be covered under warranty. Since then I have heard conflicting stories, all supposedly from CZ, but second-hand, that it's not something to be concerned about. . Anybody know the OFFICIAL CZ position on steel guide rods and alloy frames?

The steel guide rod IS harder than the alloy frame, and based of the guide rod rests and rocks on the receiver stop during the recoil cycle, so it makes sense that there COULD be wear at that point.
 
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Alas, I couldn't help but post a photo of my new toy. I find that having only put four or so boxes of ammo through it I shoot it as well as favorites that I've owned and shot extensively for decades. The target on the left shows two distinct groups with the same point of hold, 16 shots each. The upper is 124gr Hornady the lower with 115gr. The right target, 16 shots with the 124gr shows that I got mad at what happened on the left one, though I still let a couple go high, 10yds btw. Even though it has an overtravel post on the trigger it still has a lot of overtravel and it is heavy, eventually I'm going to deal with that.

BTW Walt, I really really appreciate your posts sharing your wealth of knowledge on CZ's I've learned an awful lot about CZ's.

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LOL...I can sleep just fine & go without if there is no benefit to it...;)
Yup. These things have been around so long that if there was an issue with the guide rod it probably would have been replaced in 1976..lol
 
I found the rubber grips felt good but were too thick and made it hard to get a good and proper trigger pull. Went with the woods grips and that tiny amount of thin sure improved my shooting dramatically.

Course i don't have drinking straw length fingers so that might have been the problem?;)
 
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