CZ 75B share

[chris in va]

Curious, does the SA model have a firing pin block? I just did the procedure to remove mine on the 97b and the difference is night and day.

 

[bikemutt]

The SA has the firing pin block, I was told it could be removed, it was recommended not to remove it. I followed the recommdation.

 

[DPris]

What accuracy did you get, at what distance?
Denis

 

[Martowski]

That is a very, very nice looking pistola.

 

[bikemutt]

What accuracy did you get, at what distance?
Denis

I was able to keep 'em inside the 9 at 10 yards. With my eyes I'm wasting lead shooting at any greater range. I'm sure a good shooter could have kept 'em inside the 10.

What I find with guns I shoot accurately is I know when I've made a good shot and where to look for the POI, same thing when I make a bad shot. In other words, it does what I tell it, for better or worse.

Some guns I've found I can shoot accurately but I have to adjust myself to the gun, it takes me some warm up time to get back in the groove. Not this CZ, it just does what it looks and feels like it's going to do right from the get-go.

 

[DPris]

Was hoping for more specific info.

Mine stayed under 2 inches with three out of five loads off the bench at 25 yards.
Wondered about your accuracy comments as comparisons.
Denis

 

[Chocolate Bayou]

VZ also offers special screw. They look great and have a special wrench to install. Waiting on mine to get here @ Monday.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

Curious, does the SA model have a firing pin block? I just did the procedure to remove mine on the 97b and the difference is night and day.

I bought my 75B SA used, with work already done. The gunsmith who did the work polished the firing pin block mechanism, including the cylinder that is lifted by pulling the trigger. I doubt that most folks would be able to tell that it was still installed. (He did something to the slide and frrame, too -- and it felt like the whole gun was on super slick ball bearings. (The gun later moved on to a member of a local forum, and he's still in love with it. I already had s semi-custom/custom AT-84s, and that one is about as good as you can get...)

The folks who know more about this type of gunsmithing than I do say that removing the FPB will make the trigger lighter, but other adjustments should also be made -- I don't know what that is, but it's more than just removing the mechanism. Someone on the CZ Forum can probably explain it, or check with Shmecky at Cajun Gun Works... (The internal mechanism for the 97B and the 75B are quite similar; if you found the 97B improved with the FPB removed, it might be improved even more with a little bit more tweaking.)

My only CZ at the moment is an 85 Combat -- it doesn't have a firing pin block (from the factory) -- but it does have a pretty good trigger. (It also has a "Champion" sear installed, which supposedly is slightly different than the stock 75/85 75B/85B sear.

 

[bikemutt]

My gunsmith happened to have another customer's CZ on hand with the firing pin block removed. The gun was truly only suitable as a range gun, the trigger was think-about-it light. I have fired semi-autos like that before and find them just a bit too close to the edge for my taste.

I'm very happy with the pistol the way it's presently setup, it's still carry safe, albeit on the heavy side, and presumably drop safe if I had a case of butter fingers at the range.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

My gunsmith happened to have another customer's CZ on hand with the firing pin block removed. The gun was truly only suitable as a range gun, the trigger was think-about-it light.

Removing the firing pin block mechanism alone won't have THAT great of an effect on trigger weight. Something else was done, as well... like reshaping the sear/hammer hook interface, an after-market hammer, or lighter hammer springs (but still stout enough to ignite primers.)

 

[JDGray]

Removing the firing pin block mechanism alone won't have THAT great of an effect on trigger weight. Something else was done, as well... like reshaping the sear/hammer hook interface, an after-market hammer, or lighter hammer springs (but still stout enough to ignite primers.)

^^^^This^^^^
You get a much quicker reset with the fpb removed, and a few ounces less trigger weight.

 

[bikemutt]

I guess it's a subjective matter; it's not that my CZ's trigger is heavy and the other's light, they really aren't that far apart. I felt the other gun was just over the edge for me. It's certainly possible the other gun had some additional work done that I don't know about which contributed to the lighter pull. All I was told is the only way to get mine lighter was to consider removing the FP block, since I didn't want it any lighter than it is, and it's a safety, I saw no reason to do it.

I don't know if it makes a difference but IIRC the other gun was originally a DA/SA gun converted to SA only.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

I don't know if it makes a difference but IIRC the other gun was originally a DA/SA gun converted to SA only.

Internally, except for the disconnector (which are absent on the SA models), the parts are the same. The SA models have a different trigger, of course -- but except for that, the SA models share parts with the DA/SA "safety-equipped" models. They share most of them with the decocker models, too... )

Frames are different, as are slides -- but you don't really notice those differences. (You can tell if one's been converted: the factory-built SAs have rails extended farther on the slide, and a longer beavertail -- and ambi safeties (which are hard to add to some of the DA/SA models.)

 

[bikemutt]

OK, I asked my 'smith what differences other than the FP block would contribute to the lighter trigger. Answer: 2 lb less hammer spring. I was not told that at the time, too much going on then perhaps, sorry for the confusion.