CZ disappointment

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I'd clean it properly and lube it if necessary.
Some new or lightly used automatics need a little babying until they are shot a little and parts wear in, but in general, I've never seen one that needed a "break-in" to work right with at least some kind of ammo.
It's been my experience that a gun that doesn't work right when you first get it probably has something wrong with it.
If it doesn't work right after a proper clean/lube job, call CZ's customer service people.
 
there should be no "break in" period for a new gun. If it does not function correctly, then call CZ and talk with them. Every gun manufacture will have products that come out that are not up to specs. It happens when you produce so many guns. I can never see spending an additional $150-200 to see if the gun will function correctly. That makes no sense. They are not going to give you the money back if it does not. They will ask why you did not call them when you noticed the problem.
 
I know that at one time every CZ75 going down the production line went through an automated "break-in" by being cycled 750 times(correct me if I'm wrong on the count) in an oil bath prior to being test-fired and packaged for shipment. I've gotten some really smooth triggers on some of the older pistols in my collection. Not sure if it was due to the factory "break-in" or just the number of rounds that have gone through a particular pistol.
 
Ditto for cleaning. My SR9 had a few cycling problems the first 50 rds or so;I didn't know they(any new gun) possibly would need a pre-cleaning/re-lube until a shooting friend told me. I was shooting 124gr reloads that first time. I bought them at a show and they were recommended by the same friend. He said the brass is only reused once.

I haven't had any problems since(WWB).
 
Ah yes, the old saw sings again....

Remember folks, guns are lubed for shipping, NOT for shooting.
Always degrease/clean and relube your new firearms before use.

Still, given my own outstanding history with CZ pistols of all types I'll be very interested to find out what is happening to the OP's gun.
 
my bet is still bad ammo. loaded cartridges should never have their bullets shoved into the casing from feeding. i would still start with this, the biggest red flag.
 
To the OP:

Did you clean and relube your gun prior to taking it to the range?

This gets rid of all the "packing oil" or whatever it is they use. It's meant to prevent rust and preserve the firearm, not for lubrication. Think of it as a cheap liquidy cosmoline.

Try some WWB, or Blazer brass ammo for your "break-in" period. Yeah, most guns out of the box still need a break-in period. Try 200 rounds or so.

Clean the gun again, and you should be good to go.

As for GA Arms, they make good stuff and my CZ-75BD ate the Blazer Aluminum stuff with no problems.

Also check your grip to ensure you aren't causing the problem.
 
The OP is correct in being concerned about elevated pressure with the bullet pushed back in the case.

I concur with all who contend that the ammo is at fault. I too have shot a train load of Georgia Arms ammo whithout a problem, but every company turns out a bad lot now and then. There is a problem with the ammo if the bullet jams back in the case. End of story.

Inspect the ramp for mill marks, burrs, etc. and polish. Could also be a faulty magazine. Check lips.
 
Sorry for your troubles -- I've had very good luck with my own Cz-75 (in 9mm), and it's shot Blazer Brass I bet at least as much as any other sort.

I hope you post a followup to note whether these problems persist, if you contact Cz (and how they treat you), etc.

Cheers,

timothy
 
I have a CZ-40P, and I had a similar problem (nose dives, and bullet-set back), it was rectified when I sent the magazines back to the factory. It seems that on some .40 S&W magazines, the feed lips are not to specifications, and feed the bullets at a very shallow angle. I found this out when I slightly bent the lips on mine to give them a more aggressive feed angle (more vertical), which cleared up 75% of the feeding issues, sending them back for a new pair, completely resolved them. I would also suggest using a piece of felt to polish up the feed ramp to a mirror finish. I also did this to my 40P using an un-lubed felt polishing tip on a dremel (Be WARE!!!) to get it to a mirror finish. Been running fine since.

So I'd say in order of "to-do"

a) De-grease the gun, if you haven't yet, and oil it up properly.
b) check magazine function
c) potentially polish feed ramp.

Oh, I also slightly buffed the slide-rails (again with felt polishing tip) so there was a little less friction and a slightly looser fit. Basically an synthetic break-in period, but for, oh $200 less then using ammo. As long as the barrel locks up securely to the slide, this should not affect accuracy.
 
Thanks again to all of you for your out-puring of info/advice/opinions.

Cliff47, I do believe you are right about them cycling the slide at the factory. There was wear on the rails when I took it out of the packaging, which I thought was odd. It makes sense in light of your post.

Burningsquirels, I am not in Georgia. I am in Oklahoma, though I did live in Georgia for a short time a few years back. Valdosta to be exact.

To those who commented on the price of the pistol. I got it for $438 + $22 shipping + $15 transfer = $475. This was the best price I could find. I spent months gun show, store, and internet shopping.

Anyway, today I took the mags apart and cleaned them. They were not terribly greasy inside, but now they are very clean. I also purchased a 100 round box of WWB. The WWB bullets look a bit more flat-nosed than the GA bullets. I don't know if thats good, bad, or indifferent. I'll likely have to wait until the weekend for another chance to hit the range.

--Stork
 
The 75s are known sometimes to be undersprung. Check the recoil spring. Wolffe has heavier springs for the 75s.
 
StorkPatrol said: I ran to the nearest Wally World and bought a 50 round box of Blazer Brass.

Blazer brass is not junk ammo! The only difference between Blazer Brass and their other brass cased ammo is that the Blazer Brass utilizes a basic, FMC bullet, not a JHP.

I agree w/ the posters who say to clean the gun and mags carefully, and shoot only factory untill it's broken in.
 
stork,

take some of the GA arms ammo and place it on the table, bullet down. grab the casing and push it into the table. if the bullet moves into the casing on its own, then you'll know if it's the ammo or not. you'll have to try several.

let us know how the WWB runs!
 
I'd write off the problems with the reloads as bad ammo.

You had one FTE with the Blazer, stovepipe?

Could be the springs need to be broken in. I think you're over reacting to this situation.
My SP-01 and SA run like clock work with factory ammo, hollow points (Hornady JHP/XTP my favorite), reloads, lead bullets....you name it.
If I use the Blazer (aluminum) it stovepipes on a regular basis, in fact both my SP-01 and 75B SA do the same with that ammo. I have downgraded the spring in my SP-01 and use the CZ Custom shop replacements in my SA. My solution, I don't use Blazer aluminum in those guns.

Shoot it with factory ammo and take note of the performance of each magazine if that's an issue.
 
I've heard the .40 S&W CZ's aren't as reliable as the other calibers. Is this true?
 
75B

I don't know about the 40S&W being more reliable. I am tempted to say that the 75Bs in 40 I've seen appear to be made better. That is, the machining and fit and finish seems to be better than the regular 9x19 75B. It would make sense if they had to setup a newer production line with better machines.
 
Shoot your WWB and see what happens. If no problems, shoot your Georgia Arms stuff and see what happens. If all is good, great. If it shoot fine with the WWB and not the Georgia arms, you'll know your problem. If it shoots badly with both, send the gun back to CZ.

Best to you, fellow Sooner. ;)
 
I shot my malfunctioning CZ-75b again this weekend with somewhat better results. The 100 rounds of WWB I had ran flawlessly, so I went and bought some more. I shot an additional 150 rounds with 2 failures to extract. I also tried shooting a few more rounds of the Georgia Arms stuff, but it failed to feed just like before. I've concluded that the flat nose bullet shape of the Winchester and Blazer Brass has solved the feeding problems. That leaves the FTE's to deal with. In summary, so far I have 300 rounds of factory new ammo (50 Blazer + 250 WWB) though this gun with 3 FTE's.

This afternoon I ordered a Wolff extra power extractor spring. If a $4 spring can fix a $400 pistol I will be overjoyed. Does anybody know a link to instructions on how to change an extractor spring on one of these?

Marshall, are you affiliated with one of the shooting schools in Tulsa? I think I've seen you post on the Oklahoma Shooters forum.
 
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