Design A .36 Cal Bullet

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rodwha

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I am wanting an Uberti '62 Police. I understand it to have a max load of about 25 grns of 3F. Were you to design a FN bullet for it would you make the OAL the same as a RB (.380") that might weigh ~125 grns or would you make it shorter (~.350") so as to have a slightly higher max load and a bullet that weighs ~100 grns?

With sporting grade powder this ought to perform similarly to a 38 S&W/380 ACP/38 Spl.
 
One is hard pressed to load 20 grains of powder under the ball on a .36 Cal Colt Pocket revolver. 18 is the max I've used without using my knife to make the ball flush with the chamber, 15 grains loads them easily.

If you want to see an original conical for the .36 pocket models, google, 36P colt mold or mould. 10-12 grains of 4Fg behind a Kaido would work too.
 
with mine i could squeeze in 20 grains with a ball but its a bit much i think
once i get above about 15 I start having troubles with caps blowing of
adjoining cyls which may even be a precurser to chain fire.
 
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I can get 20 grains, by volume, of T7 in mine. Not the most accurate but it packs a punch
 
The link didn't work for me, but I've seen his .45 cal bullet. I don't like how large the lube groove is, how small the meplat is, or how long it is for it's weight.

Part of this for me is to put on a good bit of weight, but keep it short, not much more than a ball so that it doesn't take up powder capacity.

Most of the various bullets I've used have rather shallow and narrow lube grooves and it seems plenty. I've only used them through my ROA though, and nothing has been able to slow it down. Maybe my '58 will be another story as I know the base pin is more finicky.

I sorta want to scale this bullet down to .380".

http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-160B-D.png

And so I can have him squish 85-100 grns into a wide flat nose giving it a shorter OAL than a ball, or I can have him design it so that it is the same length as a ball giving it a weight somewhere north of 100 grns.

Here is his .36 cal bullet:

http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=38-095B-D.png

If this weighs 95 grns in WW lead it ought to be close to 100 grns in pure. Now widen the meplat, bring the nose in directly off of the top driving band, lengthen the driving bands, increase the base diameter to .369" or so, and reduce the lube groove slightly and it easily gains another 15-25 grns or so.

So with a very limited powder capacity would you choose to have a heavier bullet with a similar charge, or would you reduce the OAL to increase the capacity? Maybe a compromise between the two and bring the OAL to .365" or something?

I need to look around at old threads to see if I can find the chambers diameter as well as the bore size.
 
Check youtube for a member here (I believe) named Kaido. He has designed a 44 and I think a 36 caliber FN bullet.
 
Yes. I bought some of his .45 cal bullets. They work great, but are too expensive. And Lee has put his custom molds off forever, which pushed me to look elsewhere.

But with this .36 cal bullet I'm not wanting a long 140 grn bullet. It would take up too much powder room.
 
Oh, OK. I too tried the .45s. Agreed, too costly and they really didn't perform all that well in my 1860 accuracy wise. At the time I didn't have my '58 but I think they would have been better suited for it.
 
36 Caliber mold. Bullets weigh 90 grains. Same six cavity platform as all the other Big Lube®LLC molds. The same handles fit.

The size at the rebate is .352". The driving bands measure .382" and easily size to exact fit for a nice snug interference fit in your chambers. The small rebate sets the bullets square and proud on the chambers for straight and easy seating. This is another bullet design that works well with the DD Tower of Power cylinder loading stand.

Since this is a true Big Lube®LLC bullet design, plenty of lube loaded into the generous lube grove assures all day shooting with no need to clean to maintain accuracy or function. This is a VERY accurate little bullet.
 
Remember fellas, Pietta revolvers have slow twist barrels as did most Uberti's until 2010 or thereabouts depending on the model. Slow twist barrels are not conducive to conical bullet accuracy.

That being said, I've shot .36 cal Kaido conicals that I cast from my mold out of a Pietta Belt revolver that was just as accurate as my RB. Under 2" at 50 feet.
 
The twist works well with the length of a RB. The conical I am working on would be slightly shorter, if not the same length, and therefor ought to do fairly well.
 
In the 1890's to 1920's there were some Ideal bullet molds for bullets designed to punch very clear crisp round holes in targets for short range pistol shooters. I believe the design was developed by A. L. A. Himmelwright of the Us Revolver Assn. There was one for the 38, (mold no 360302) another for the 44 S&W. (mold 429220) I have one that was intended for a Webley but works well in my ruger. It is basically a bore diameter length cylinder with a slightly raised point in the center of one end. Mine has two very narrow grease grooves. It fits the Ruger Old Army perfectly and weighs 190-192 grains as cast.

A 36 C&B revolver is hardly a 100 yd gun. So having a bullet slightly shorter than ball diameter will be easily subject to instability and tumbling, but in the short range should be fine.

Ideal had a similar bullet/conical mold for the 44 C&B revs that threw a 170 grain bullet, but it had a very slightly rounded top (mold no 450225) more like an oval head on a wood screw. It looks to be the same height as width with two grease grooves
 
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