The Bushmaster
Member
Yes I know...So why didn't you say so....What?? Trying to get a little classy on us??? 
Devine Message NOT to Reload?
- Thread starter ID_shooting
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only1asterisk
member
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2003
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ID_shooting,
Did you take the dies apart and clean them? It's possible you have an imperfection on the inside of the die that's snagging the case.
Reloading the 30-06 should be a easy as any other cartridge.
David
Did you take the dies apart and clean them? It's possible you have an imperfection on the inside of the die that's snagging the case.
Reloading the 30-06 should be a easy as any other cartridge.
David
yes, it is a divine message. there are simply far too many 30-06's out there, and the celestial beings are trying to prevent anymore from running amock.
do not sell the gun - this would anger the spirits because it breaks several rules, the most important 2 being: 1- do not sell guns (unless that is your occupation), and 2- do not unleash any more 30-06's (period)... the right thing to do is re-barrel to a more useful cartridge.
do not sell the gun - this would anger the spirits because it breaks several rules, the most important 2 being: 1- do not sell guns (unless that is your occupation), and 2- do not unleash any more 30-06's (period)... the right thing to do is re-barrel to a more useful cartridge.
The Bushmaster
Member
A more useful cartridge...??? Now that would depend on what you are hunting for. You, Dakotasin, may have to explain thyself, being the only expert on better calibres and all. 
I have GOT to hear this. It's got to be good...L O L
I have GOT to hear this. It's got to be good...L O L Ahh.... Memories!
ID_Shooting-
Reading your post took me back a few years, 17 to be exact! When I started reloading, I was on an unemployed college student's budget. Couldn't afford much! I started off with 223/5.56mm, not '06 though. I had all the exact problems you did! It was erie! Do you have a dormmate who was anti-gun too?
I didn't really even have a bench, I was using hand tools at the time! Finally I found One Shot, but the real trick was using it right.. I was putting the cases in a block and trying to spray from multiple angles. No luck. This stinks! I said..Then I tried just throwing them in a cardboard box, spraying, shaking the box and shaking, spraying a few more times and "Bingo!" no more stuck cases!! I also tried Dillon spray at the same time and it was equally as effective. So the "quick and dirty" method worked better than the loading block method - better coverage on the head area....
Anyway, it's like walking; you're gonna fall a few times befor you get it, and even then you'll still trip every now and then!
Keep it up!,
Cal Poly
ID_Shooting-
Reading your post took me back a few years, 17 to be exact! When I started reloading, I was on an unemployed college student's budget. Couldn't afford much! I started off with 223/5.56mm, not '06 though. I had all the exact problems you did! It was erie! Do you have a dormmate who was anti-gun too?
I didn't really even have a bench, I was using hand tools at the time! Finally I found One Shot, but the real trick was using it right.. I was putting the cases in a block and trying to spray from multiple angles. No luck. This stinks! I said..Then I tried just throwing them in a cardboard box, spraying, shaking the box and shaking, spraying a few more times and "Bingo!" no more stuck cases!! I also tried Dillon spray at the same time and it was equally as effective. So the "quick and dirty" method worked better than the loading block method - better coverage on the head area....
Anyway, it's like walking; you're gonna fall a few times befor you get it, and even then you'll still trip every now and then!
Keep it up!,
Cal Poly
redneck2
Member
Additional thought
I used one type of spray lube..don't remember which, but there's better than what I used
the RCBS lube/pad is pretty good for straight reloading
I use Rooster CFL (case forming lube) to form .357 Herrett from .30-30's. If you can neck up/down and push shoulders back, I can't see how you'd stick a case during normal reloading. That stuff is slick (pun intended)
As above, I'd check out the die. Gotta think it's rough on the inside. IIRC, some guys polish the inside of their dies with Flitz before they use them for this reason.
I used one type of spray lube..don't remember which, but there's better than what I used
the RCBS lube/pad is pretty good for straight reloading
I use Rooster CFL (case forming lube) to form .357 Herrett from .30-30's. If you can neck up/down and push shoulders back, I can't see how you'd stick a case during normal reloading. That stuff is slick (pun intended)
As above, I'd check out the die. Gotta think it's rough on the inside. IIRC, some guys polish the inside of their dies with Flitz before they use them for this reason.
molonlabe
Member
Are the firing pin holes off center or are they berdan primed. That can be determined by looking in the case with a bore light if there is on hole it is boxer primed if two holes side by side that would explain the bent decaping pin. As for the case lube, I have always used RCBS nothing else and I have reloaded thousands of rounds of 30-06
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For spray-type case lubes, I use an old frying pan.
Put the brass in the pan, spritz the brass with a light coating of lube (like Dillon's version) and agitate the pan to get a uniform light coating on all the brass. Keyword is light. Too much lube, and you get hydraulic lock in the sizing die, causing torn rims and a purchase of a stuck case remover.
I've pretty much stopped using spray lubes since I tried Imperial Sizing Die wax. Good stuff, Maynard!
I'm hoping Dakotasin is being funny with his remarks about the .30-06.
Put the brass in the pan, spritz the brass with a light coating of lube (like Dillon's version) and agitate the pan to get a uniform light coating on all the brass. Keyword is light. Too much lube, and you get hydraulic lock in the sizing die, causing torn rims and a purchase of a stuck case remover.
I've pretty much stopped using spray lubes since I tried Imperial Sizing Die wax. Good stuff, Maynard!
I'm hoping Dakotasin is being funny with his remarks about the .30-06.
cracked butt
Member
I've reloaded thousands of 30-06 using the RCBS lube/lube pad and haven't even come close to sticking a case yet.
LAH
Member
Spray resizing lube. Take a bucket of brass and using a coffee can pour said brass into an empty bucket and as it leaves the can spray the cases. After spraying all the brass simply transfer the brass between the two buckets a couple times to well mix it. Once everything drys have at it. This is the method used for straight walled cases.
For bottle necked cases I do more or less the same only on a smaller scale. So far I've never stuck a case with the spray.
For bottle necked cases I do more or less the same only on a smaller scale. So far I've never stuck a case with the spray.
BroncoGlenn
Member
I'm guessing you are full length sizing your brass.
Start with cleaning the dies. They tend to accumulate lube, especially if you overdo it with the lube.
If you are ripping the head of the case as soon as you try the downstroke, to where the case hasn't started to come down at all, it could be "stucktion" where the case is getting stuck in the die the same as if you pressed to pieces of glass together under water and tried to pull them apart. Can happen if there is too much lube or vent hole on die body gets plugged.
If the case head is ripping off shortly after the case has started coming down it could be the expander ball hanging up if you haven't lubed inside the necks.
When you are lubing, you only need lube on the body and the inside of the neck. And it doesn't need to be much. For bottlenecks I like to use a lube pad and mica powder for inside the neck. Too much lube just fouls up your dies that much faster.
Start with cleaning the dies. They tend to accumulate lube, especially if you overdo it with the lube.
If you are ripping the head of the case as soon as you try the downstroke, to where the case hasn't started to come down at all, it could be "stucktion" where the case is getting stuck in the die the same as if you pressed to pieces of glass together under water and tried to pull them apart. Can happen if there is too much lube or vent hole on die body gets plugged.
If the case head is ripping off shortly after the case has started coming down it could be the expander ball hanging up if you haven't lubed inside the necks.
When you are lubing, you only need lube on the body and the inside of the neck. And it doesn't need to be much. For bottlenecks I like to use a lube pad and mica powder for inside the neck. Too much lube just fouls up your dies that much faster.
LAH
Member
Hey Glenn Keep your head down over there.
I think the instructions on the can of spray lube says to clean your dies before using the new lube.
I think the instructions on the can of spray lube says to clean your dies before using the new lube.
lvl1trauma
Member
You need to brush out the case necks before sizing. I use a bore brush on an RCBS handle. Also, you can polish the inside of your dies using flitz to make them slicker.
Lvl1trauma
Lvl1trauma
ID_shooting
Member
Lots fo good advice here, mostly allready done as I am no nube too reloading, just new to 30-06 reloading. I did buy the RCBS stuck case remover, I imagin there will be more. When I pulled the last one out, it was not very slick with lube, I think I am not spraying the cases even enough.
30-06
There is lots of good info here. Especially buy the stuck case remover first. I got mine 45 years ago, put it in my gizmo bin and havent stuck a case since. Proof that they are a necesity. I have used mostly RCBS lube but hate the stamp pads as they collect grit. Use a piece of non porus material of a good size for the cases. take 2 binder clips and pull a soft cloth over the non porus board and clip the ends with the binder clips. when you are done throw away the cloth and you get no grit build up. A thin wood backing just a bit shorter than the board will hold it up high enough to clear the clip arms. Oh Yes, In the lower 48 you can do it all with a 30-06 and good bullets. Of course there are 1 or 2 others that might do as good.
There is lots of good info here. Especially buy the stuck case remover first. I got mine 45 years ago, put it in my gizmo bin and havent stuck a case since. Proof that they are a necesity. I have used mostly RCBS lube but hate the stamp pads as they collect grit. Use a piece of non porus material of a good size for the cases. take 2 binder clips and pull a soft cloth over the non porus board and clip the ends with the binder clips. when you are done throw away the cloth and you get no grit build up. A thin wood backing just a bit shorter than the board will hold it up high enough to clear the clip arms. Oh Yes, In the lower 48 you can do it all with a 30-06 and good bullets. Of course there are 1 or 2 others that might do as good.
LAH
Member
Welcome to the board Ky Ghost.
One shot
I have seen at least 3 other forums with threads where long time reloaders who have never had a stuck case, have done so with one shot, even the posters who liked one shot said the instructions were not good, that the cases had to be sprayed from at least 2 points and then have the lube spread around or the cases would stick.
I have used paste floor wax, Lyman case lube, Herter's case lube, ep gear oil, what a stinking mess, Lee case lube and now the Hornady Unique lube.
I liked the Lee best until I decided to try a tub of the Unique, works fine even when reforming, not just resizing, takes almost none, you just brush 2 fingers across the tub, lightly fondle the case as you put it in the shell holder and stroke, a light brush is good enough for 4-6 cases.
I also got rid of a bottleneck in resizing and seating checks on cast bullets, just a smear of unique and the bullet and gas check go right through, almost no drag.
the next thing I intend to try is shooting cast gc bullets with it as lube and see how fast I can get before any leading occurs.
Don
I have seen at least 3 other forums with threads where long time reloaders who have never had a stuck case, have done so with one shot, even the posters who liked one shot said the instructions were not good, that the cases had to be sprayed from at least 2 points and then have the lube spread around or the cases would stick.
I have used paste floor wax, Lyman case lube, Herter's case lube, ep gear oil, what a stinking mess, Lee case lube and now the Hornady Unique lube.
I liked the Lee best until I decided to try a tub of the Unique, works fine even when reforming, not just resizing, takes almost none, you just brush 2 fingers across the tub, lightly fondle the case as you put it in the shell holder and stroke, a light brush is good enough for 4-6 cases.
I also got rid of a bottleneck in resizing and seating checks on cast bullets, just a smear of unique and the bullet and gas check go right through, almost no drag.
the next thing I intend to try is shooting cast gc bullets with it as lube and see how fast I can get before any leading occurs.
Don
308win
Member
I use it with a neck brush to lube the inside of my bottle neck cases when I full length resize. I roll the brush on the pad (one revolution) and lube 5-6 cases before rolling the brush again. I have never had a problem with the lube adulterating the powder and powder doesn't stick to the inside of the case mouth. If the loaded ammunition is stored long enough could this technique case a problem by adulterating the powder? Anyone else use this technique? Also, I don't always tumble after resizing.
The Bushmaster
Member
All of my brass is tumbled, resized and tumbled again. The RCBS lube is removed at this time and has never Adulterated(?) any of my rounds.
308win
Member
Do you add anything to your media (mineral spirits, etc.)? How often do you change the media? It seems to me that the media will eventually get 'gummed up' from the lube.
The Bushmaster
Member
Because I only have to lube .30-30 and .30-06 cases I have plenty of time to hand wipe each case before retumbling. However I use a .30 calibre bore brush that has been rolled across the pad and ran into the mouth of each case and I don't wipe that out. I don't use any additives in my media and I usually change it once a year or when it seems to leave my cases a little oily. which is around a years use. If you are messy like me you are always adding more media every so aften.
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