difference in .357 ammo?

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DavidB2

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I have a new .357 mag. Ruger Blackhawk. Seems like the two most common rounds used are 125 and 158 grains. Other than the speed difference in the 125 grain rounds for .357; what is the biggest difference in the 125 and 158 grain bullets? Is there a big cost difference? Does the 158 round have more recoil being a heavier bullet? Thanks for any feedback.
 
158 is the traditional, classic, and standard bullet weight for the .357 Magnum.

If you want the .357 experience, that's the bullet weight you should try.

125 is a later development giving high speed, greater expansion, and supposedly, greater 'stopping power' on humanoid size targets.

You should try them too.

You should also try .38 Special wad-cutter match ammo for no recoil or muzzle blast, and incredible accuracy while learning to shoot a .357 Magnum..
And .38 Spl standard LRN ammo for mild recoil and good accuracy.

That's the great thing about a .357.
You don't have to buy just type of ammo and use it the rest of your life.

rc
 
You probably won't feel much recoil in something as heavy as a Blackhawk.

In my experience, lighter grains like the 125 are more of a snappy, muzzle flipping recoil. Heavier loads shove back into your hand a bit. That is simply my own perception.

There are alot of good rounds out there depending on your purpose.

I used to use the Speer Gold Dot 125 grain in .357 as a carry load in my Ruger GP100.

But now that it is a dedicated woods gun, I like the Buffalo Bore 180 grain. It's a pretty nice load.

In the lighter SP101, I really like the Buffalo Bore - Barnes Short Barrel XPB 140 grain which is a milder load.

There are plenty of rounds that will do the job and much of it boils down to personal preference and finding something you like and trust.
 
I've found the 125 gr. produces more felt recoil than the 158's, I carry and shoot both, but I probably prefer the 158's, no particular reason. I've chronographed 110, 125, 140, and the 158 gr JHP's, and the 110's and 125's will definitely produce a good bit more velocity than the heavier 158's, with the 140's some where in the middle. With full tilt loads, I feel all are more than sufficient for self defense personally, but that's my opinion.

As for stopping power, 125's and up have proven effective on deer sized game. I've also done some unofficial penetration tests on all the above JHP's using tightly rolled up denim soaked in water. All completely penetrated the 16" and kept on going, so no real conclusive results to share beyond the obvious.

GS
 
david What are you looking to use the 357 for. If double duty as a home defense pistol and plinker buy a 125gr hp . If going to try some hunting you want a premium heavy bullet 158 to 170gr. If a plnker only buy what ever is cheap and keep the brass. Save for something like a lee anniversary loading kit and load the 357 brass to your needs. I load 170 and 180gr 1400fps loads for hunting and lite and slow lead 140gr to 158gr plinker loads at 800fps.
 
I am overrun with feral hogs and up close I prefer .44 mag or .45 colt with hot loads. when I do carry a .357 mag I load up with 180 grain flat nose gas check at 1,400 fps. plenty enough for hogs and deer, but still prefer the larger calibers.
 
125 grain issues

I have heard that 125 grain bullets are not really good rounds due to possible damage to the muzzle crown. Perhaps I am mistaken. I have found 158 grain JHP to be the only rounds available locally. I assume that this is a good all around round for target shooting, self defense, and woods carry to dispatch most game?
 
A great deal of use of hot 125 Gr ammo in K Frames can cause forcing cone damage and/or top strap cutting. You don't really need to worry about your Blackhawk, and there isn't much .357 ammo out there loaded really hot compared to the days when folks saw forcing cone damage in K frames from hot 125 Gr ammo.
 
David, There are issues with the light bullet (ie:125 grain or lighter), full power .357 loads when fired A LOT in K frame S&W revolvers. The issue is not the muzzle crown, but the forcing cone. The K frame was intially developed for the .38 Special cartridge and later adapted to the .357 Magnum. The K frame has a flat spot on the bottom of the forcing cone, where the crane closes. this is a week spot. It is not an issue with any .38 Special load, nor with heavier .357 bullet wieghts, or even with lightly loaded 125 grain or less .357 loads.
This is what lead to the development of the L frame S&W revolvers.
As far as I know, no other revolvers, by any quality manufacturer, is effected by this issue.
 
I load and shoot 110 gr, 125 gr, and 158 gr all jacketed hollow points.

The 110's will absolutely scream out the barrel at a million fps, well that's an exaggeration. But they do fly pretty darn fast as well.

The 125's are still pretty fast and will no doubt serve well as a self defense round if a quality projectile, Gold Dots and XTP'ds are good.

And as RC said, the 158's are the traditional and most common of projectiles, for which the .357's are so well known for.

I have two K frame model 66's, and both have had gobs of all the above run through them, one sice the early 1980's, so far there is no sign of forcing cone issues. I have read that S&W considers most FC issues due to lead build up in the forcing cone, thus creating excessive pressures. If in doubt just shoot 158;s and be done with your concerns. But also considering you are referring to a Ruger BH, so I wouldn't be too worried about FC issues, as those Black Hawks are built like tanks.

But the one's I use the most of are 158's, and 125's pretty often too. Enjoy and worry not!

GS
 
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