Dillon 550B Setup Questions

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Whelp, a big thanks to the members who suggested that the brass might be "too clean/polished" from using my new rotary tumbler and stainless media.

At least you found the problem and learned a lesson at the same time. Change one thing at a time so you can eliminate variables.

Also why I suggested you put the dies back into the press they came out of to see if it still worked fine (and it would not have).
 
While I seldom have any problems with my 550B, if I can't solve it, I call Dillon. They are true experts. They will get to the route of the issue, even if it has nothing to do with a machine issue. They will walk you step by step until it is figured out AND they are not reading a computer screen to figure out the next step. Every one of their customer service techs know because they are very experienced reloaders in addition to knowing everything about the Dillon machines (all models).
 
So I feel a lot better about my press, but now I have a couple hundred dollars sunk into a stainless media tumbler and assorted accessories that seem to be worthless now.
Use your new tumbler for rifle brass since you need to lube that brass anyway, and your corn cob for pistol.
 
I have used corn cob, corn cob with cut-up dryer sheets, and corn cob with NuFinish. Then, I switched over to a Hornady ultrasonic cleaner. After reading about stainless pin/wet tumbling, I've switched over to that method exclusively. Yes, it takes a little while longer to prep the brass, and I can't do near the volume I could with corn cob, but I am very pleased with the results. I've gone from the Thumbler's Model B from STM to the Frankford Arsenal unit, and am really happy, since I can do a five pound batches now, instead of just two on the Model B. Good thing is that I can use both of them in tandem now!

Same recipe I used when I started out was modified slightly after I read about it on another forum. I got rid of the Dawn from the equation and use the Armor All car wash instead. Now, all the brass is slightly lubed, and doesn't stick to the powder funnel.

5 lbs of brass
1 gal of water (I use cold from the kitchen, which is from a water softener)
1/4 tsp of Lemishine
3 tbsp of Armor All

I rinse them outside, put them on a towel to get the big drops off the brass and let them dry outside. They dry inside if it's wet out, though.

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Regarding the dies, I've used Dillon from the beginning, but also use Hornady for some calibers, and use a Redding Competition Seating die for my 9x19 and .45ACP, since I use many different types of bullets for those calibers. Makes life a lot easier. The Dillon resizing dies work without lube, and so do the Hornady dies. Both have carbide sizing rings.

When you get different OAL for your loads, are you using the same brass headstamps? Or are they different brands? Are you putting empty cases and/or dummy rounds in when setting the seating die? I don't lock in the die unless the shellplate is full.

Finally, I put a dab of white lithium grease on the ball bearing when I change out the shellplates. Loosen the set screw on the side of the shaft before cranking down on the center screw for the shellplate. Find the tension that works best, then lock it in with the set screw.

One recommendation for you: get a light so that you can see inside the case at station #3 to check for powder. I used an ikea cheap-o LED lamp for a long time, and finally went with one from Inline Fabrication. It fits inside the toolhead, and allows you see see everything quite nicely.

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I hope that all goes well for you on the 550. Let us know.

-BB
 
I'm going to try the Armor All Wash and Shine this week some time and do a small batch in the FA rotary tumbler. The FA tumbler will hold more brass than my vibro tumblers and it's a whole lot faster. I would like to continue using it.
 
The 550 is unlike the SD, 650 and 1050, in that the shell plate has no bearing on OAL issues. On the other 3 the case sits "IN" the shell plate on the 550 the case sits on top of a platform below the shell plate, all the shell plate on a 550 does is pull the rounds out of the dies and locate them radially. That said, it does not have to be tight, I snug it down then back if off so it turns freely.

Not sure on your OAL issue is the platform tight to the ram? Again, the shell plate won't be the issue but everything under it could be.

Thank you for this verbal picture. Realizing the platform and not the shellplate is where the work is done make the understanding of some issues much simpler to get a handle on and correcting. Very very nice to realize this.
 
I've ran 300 rounds through the machine so far and haven't had any problems.

One question though, on my powder measure, after the powder bar slides forward and drops the charge, as it returns to the rear the bar slides smoothly about halfway as I lower the handle and then jerks back quickly to the rear on the last half of the travel. Is that normal? I'm pulling the handle smoothly.
 
It part of the Bell Crank assembly knocking against the PM's body. I've been told that it helps settle the powder for more consistent dispencing. So yup it's the way it is.
 
The interrupted return of the powder bar is also a safety issue. It greatly reduces the risk of a double charge in the event of you needing to reverse the travel before a full stroke of the lever. It's not a failsafe gaurantee of this by any means but it's one more item that aids in avoiding a double charge.
 
After I clean brass with stainless pins I always run it in the vibratory tumbler with walnut and nufinish for a little while. Slicks up the brass so it isn't grabby
on the expander. I run Dillon dies wherever I can, but also use a lot of RCBS .
 
After stainless tumbling I just give them a blast of case lube. It takes about 3 seconds and is way easier than another tumble in corn cob IME.
 
I bought some Armor All Wash and Wax this week so I'm going to try a small batch in the stainless media and see if that works any better. If not, I may have to sell off the FA rotary and my small vibros and get a large capacity vibro.
 
What's the aversion to a spritz of spray lube? It doesn't take much. Once the sizer die gets a few lubed cases in it your good to go. It's not like lubing rifle cases. I'd rather have clean cases and use a squirt of lube than go back to the dust bowl days.
 
Beanie-Bean pretty much nailed it.

I did not notice a problem resizing after I switched to wet tumbling with Dawn, but I did start noticing the brass galling on the powder funnel (expander). I switched to Armor All Wash-n-Wax and that problem went away. It leaves a very thin film of carnuba wax on the brass.

A few people mentioned lubing the shellplate and detent ball. I would not use anything petroleum based there. There is a chance (very slim) that the grease could find its way into a primer. What I use is Imperial case lube (the wax kind). I already had it, so that is why I tried it. Safe for primers, takes a very thin film to work, and smooths things up so well.

For my 550, I think I prefer the Dillon resizing dies. Never had a problem with those. I think the Hornady is a close second, and the Lee somewhere behind those. I do like my Hornady new dimension seating die, though.
 
I clean my brass with an ultrasonic cleaner. And it tends to grab a bit just like the pin tumbled method.

I lube my cases lightly by making up a "pad" of three layers of paper towel folded over and set onto a small baking tray. I spray the paper with one of the common case lubes. Then I put a handful or two of cases on the pad and roll them around with my hand for a few seconds and dump them off into another bin. This takes about 3 or 4 minutes tops to lube 1000 or so casings. The trace amount of lube is enough that even if a few cases come through partially or completely dry that the feel is still the same.

And with this method you don't need to clean out the tumbler media. Just dump, roll, dump, roll, dump, roll.... etc until done and then straight to the press for loading.
 
olympus.. I'll gladly take those junk 9mm dies off your hands.. been needing to get setup for 9mm :D
Got them working just fine now. It was the resize die that was causing the issue. But I'm still working on a batch of brass from my vibro tumbler. I'll try the rotary tumbler with the Armor All Wash and Wax whenever I get this batch loaded up.
 
I run both Dillon and Lee 9mm carbide dies on my 550 and have not had any of the problems you describe but I don't wet tumble. For the shell plate rotation problems, try the Uniquetec roller thrust bearing. It solves all of the rotation problems without resorting to grease or oil. It is so good, I don't see why Dillon has not incorporated something similar from the factory
 
Well, I've loaded 500 rounds and the press has really smoothed out. It is running flawlessly now. My OALs and powder throw are locked in and very consistent. I'm very happy with the press!
 
As a side note, I bought a push-on plastic knob that slides over the head of the powder adjustment bolt from eBay. Makes it super easy and fast to make powder adjustments and you can easily use your fingers. Dillon should consider adding this as a permanent option.
 
Agreed, the push on knobs are great addition. I bought a batch and have on each powder adjustment.

Everything I have read seems to confirm wet tumbling is far better than vibratory with corn cob or walnut.

550b is a good press, a little expensive.
 
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