Dillon Tool heads versus after market

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338reddog

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After reading the thread about how many tool heads we have,
Firat question:
Do use after market tool heads?
Second question:
If yes to above, have you had any issues?
Third question:
Have you used the tool head designed for 38/357 and 44sp/44mag? The ones you dont have to adust the dies when changing calibers.
Thanks
Jeff
 
Who makes after market tool heads for Dillon progressive presses?

In my over thirty year experience with Dillon XL 650 presses, dies have to be adjusted from time to time. Mostly to seat and crimp slight variations in bullets.
 
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I have a lot of dillon dies and not enough tool heads. I have been contemplating the price of Dillon vs after market. I bought 2 usa made after market tool heads but I have ran them yet.
I still need a few conversion kits. I have most all of the dies I need.
 
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Who makes after market tool heads for Dillon progressive presses?

In my over thirty year experience with Dillon XL 650 presses, dies have to be adjusted from time to time. Mostly to seat and crimp slight variations in bullets.
I think its called joefers. I paid around $26-30 for them. Dont remember the exact price
Jeff
 
The only aftermarket tool heads I find (for the XL 650, what I have) is made by Whidden Gunworks and retails just under $50. Dillon sells theirs for just over $30. The Ballistic tool version may be of better tolerance and quality than the Dillon, but I haven't had any serious problems with the cheap one. If there are other aftermarket suppliers, I cannot find them on internet.

Some rifles I have do not require 'mass production' (.458 Winchester and 8mm Lebel, for instance) on the 650, so I have a single stage press or two for those. I do not need a tool head for those calibers.
 
I only load pistol calibers And 223 on the dillon. I have never tried rifle calibers. I have close to image.jpg sets of dies. Some are heading to auction. I load for about , well a bunch of rifles. Those I load on a bair/pacific ( not many around) and a Forster CoAx.
Truthfully I dont enjoy loading pistol,maybe it will become more enjoyable when I can slow down. To me it seems more like a chore than fun. I do enjoy single stage loading.
Jeff
Oh I have some lebel, that I dont have a rifle to load for. What Do you think of the round?
 
I’ve thought about getting the Widden tool head a few times but haven’t found a compelling reason to pull the trigger on it.
 
After reading the thread about how many tool heads we have,
Firat question:
Do use after market tool heads?
Second question:
If yes to above, have you had any issues?
Third question:
Have you used the tool head designed for 38/357 and 44sp/44mag? The ones you dont have to adust the dies when changing calibers.
Thanks
Jeff

I use regular Dillon toolheads. For the bolded, I changed out the Dillon lock rings for RCBS clamping style and just set the dies for .38/.44SPL then use spacers when loading their magnum counterparts.

Here's a link to a pretty good PDF that explains it:
http://www.uniquetek.com/store/696296/uploaded/Die_Shims_and_Die_Spacers.pdf
 
I use regular Dillon toolheads. For the bolded, I changed out the Dillon lock rings for RCBS clamping style and just set the dies for .38/.44SPL then use spacers when loading their magnum counterparts.

Here's a link to a pretty good PDF that explains it:
http://www.uniquetek.com/store/696296/uploaded/Die_Shims_and_Die_Spacers.pdf

Interesting. Maybe adjust my seating die for both coated SWC and Speer Speer Gold Dots by simply shimming? Instead of purchasing the adjustable seating die that I am considering now?
 
Instead of purchasing the adjustable seating die that I am considering now?
Unless you have a lot more patience than most people or have a better organized loading area, you'll be able to keep you blood pressure under control better by buying a Redding Competition Seating die.

I started just buying one, but they made life so much easier...the marks on the scale exactly reflect .001" changes in seating depth...that I'm about to buy my third. The floating seating stem and bullet guide are just added bonuses.
 
One of the reasons I have so many quick changes is that I bought separate dies for 10/40 and 38/357. I find the load that works best for us and set it up and leave alone unless for some reason we change bullets. I've never tried the aftermarket tool heads, Dillon work ok for me.
 
Interesting. Maybe adjust my seating die for both coated SWC and Speer Speer Gold Dots by simply shimming? Instead of purchasing the adjustable seating die that I am considering now?

You could......but I wouldn't.

I have different shim sets. The ones I mentioned are for a set width, just to extend the crimp and belling to compensate for the case length delta. In this case they save time by making it unnecessary to adjust dies.

I have other shims that are useful for adjusting sizing and shoulder bumps that are in .001s. They really come in handy when loading for multiple rifles in the same caliber and not wanting to FL size all your brass. Sizing can be "tailored" to the rifle by setting up your dies for FL sizing, then backing off to the correct headspace using shims for that rifle, then recording the shim used. For what you're after you're better off going with a competition style die like the above poster mentions.

Although IF you load in large enough batches or lots, a regular seating die isn't too hard to adjust, as long as you're using a separate crimping die. It's not too hard to adjust out a seating stem, then dial back in to your chosen OAL length as your crimp remains a constant. I use competition seating dies for my precision rifles, but then I'm bouncing between bullets and doing testing on seating depth. I do nowhere near that much work for handgun, especially for a revolver with a "crimping groove" bullet.
 
I have honestly considered the Dillon toolheads not that expensive. I think that is because their powder measures, conversion kits and everything else is so expensive the toolheads seem like a bargain. LOL!

It has been 20 years since I bought a toolhead for my 650... it seems like they have gone up a considerable amount since then.
 
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I do have some aftermarket ones for the 650’s and 1050’s. They are GSI’s that incorporate bullet feeders into the tool head and a couple that are special for trimming rounds that are too short to work in a standard Dillon tool head.
 
The colored ones I have were made by Jofer USA (Florida) and were sold on Ebay for as little as $18 each when buying multiples. They make them for the 550 and 650. (See: https://www.joferusa.com/?page_id=3610) They also sell from their own web site.

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These are precision machined and anodized works of art. They fit and work extremely well, and I like the fact that I can color code the die sets which makes finding them much easier. (This beside the fact that I'm a graphically-oriented guy and simply like colors.)

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I eventually ended up with one of each color.

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Also see THIS THREAD
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Rfwobbly, they are certainly cool looking, but are they better?

I was unsure myself, so my first order was just for one unit. The machining is perfect. (I'm a retired ME accustomed to designing and inspecting machined parts.) The dies align with the shell plate and are held at the correct height. The die threads go all the way through the plate and have the proper clearance. The 2 locating pins fit securely. So as far as "fit" is concerned they are every bit as good as the Dillon units.

The Dillon units are die cast and only selected surfaces are cleaned up with machining. Dillon now offers theirs in 4 colors (gold, black, natural, & blue) starting at $30 for the 4-hole 550. The Jofer USA units are machined from solid billets, and are offered in 9 colors starting at $16 for the same item. The coloring is done with hard anodize and mine have not suffered a scratch yet. So I must say that the "finish" on the Jofer USA units is better, if only because they are at least "as good", but offered in more colors.

Bottom Line: They edge out Dillon on fit and finish, and end up at about half the cost.
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