Do you size/prime off your progressive?
- Thread starter YellowLab
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Many posts I've read are not sizing on the press. They prefer the 'feel' of a hand primer, or are simply quicker at sizing on a single stage... maybe to post size guage it or whatever.
Just cause you got it doesn't mean that you have to use it.
Just cause you got it doesn't mean that you have to use it.
griz
Member
I was tempted to check the Jedi box, but I don't want anyone to know about my gift.
caz223
Member
It's not so much willing it to size, it's more of a "return to the size you were."
If you had jedi powers, why would you need small arms ammunition?
If you had jedi powers, why would you need small arms ammunition?
dmftoy1
Member
It's kind of a trick question.
I do everything on the press for pistol ammo
For Rifle ammo I size/deprime in one step.
Handprime in a second step
Then run them through the progressive to finish reloading.
I do everything on the press for pistol ammo
For Rifle ammo I size/deprime in one step.
Handprime in a second step
Then run them through the progressive to finish reloading.
Car Knocker
Member
If ya got it, flaunt it! I do it all on the progressive.
A related thought.
I decap size and prime on the single stage. This is .45ACP. I used to use the autoprime on step two but now discovered the Lee safety prime with the Lee Classic CI press. That little flimsy plastic POC is amazing in its reliability and simplicity, and turns step one and two into step one.
I like batching this process, and then I have plentiful pots of pretty primed perfect pre-feeders. ......Say that five times.
But I started thinking. I used mixed range brass and I can usually tell the headstamp just by how it feels when priming. Some are difficult and some are easy and you really have to "feel" the ram setting the primer to do it right.
This kind of 'custom' hand setting can't possibly be done with a progressive where you're performing five processes in one stroke.
So here's the question. Are all of the BBS contributors who curse various brands of brass, having problems because they prime on their progressive and need a very consistent behaving brass to operate properly, or do the brass cursers have problems when pre-priming on a single stage/auto prime as well?
I decap size and prime on the single stage. This is .45ACP. I used to use the autoprime on step two but now discovered the Lee safety prime with the Lee Classic CI press. That little flimsy plastic POC is amazing in its reliability and simplicity, and turns step one and two into step one.
I like batching this process, and then I have plentiful pots of pretty primed perfect pre-feeders. ......Say that five times.
But I started thinking. I used mixed range brass and I can usually tell the headstamp just by how it feels when priming. Some are difficult and some are easy and you really have to "feel" the ram setting the primer to do it right.
This kind of 'custom' hand setting can't possibly be done with a progressive where you're performing five processes in one stroke.
So here's the question. Are all of the BBS contributors who curse various brands of brass, having problems because they prime on their progressive and need a very consistent behaving brass to operate properly, or do the brass cursers have problems when pre-priming on a single stage/auto prime as well?
It's not as simple as that, when loading pistol cartridges the entire process is done on the Dillon, however...when loading bottleneck rifle cartridges I process them on a single stage, they have to be lubed, sized, clean the lube off, trimmed, chamfer and bevel the case, then finish on the Dillon.
Bottleneck rifle cartridges are an entirely different process than straight wall pistol cartridges.
Bottleneck rifle cartridges are an entirely different process than straight wall pistol cartridges.
You are wrong about the dillon 550 and probably other progressive presses. When it comes to priming a case, that happens at the end of a "cycle" when lowering the shell platform and priming is the only activity. I also use mixed range brass and some do require more priming force than others.
Car Knocker
Member
No, I do rifle completely on the progressive also, not just pistol. The last batch of 500 .308's were completely done on the Projector. If I could figure out how to drop-tube the black powder for the .45-70, I'd do those on the progressive also.
Once I get a lot of rifle brass prepped the next couple loadings go 100% through the Dillon 550. The first sizing is done on a single stage, then trim, bevel, etc. Then they only see the Dillon until the next trim cycle comes up.
With the right equipment you can do it all on the progressive once the brass is prepped.
With the right equipment you can do it all on the progressive once the brass is prepped.
The Bushmaster
Member
I'm not tellin' the whole truth here, but you gave no choice...One...I don't have a progressive. I have a turret. Two...I resize/decap on a single stage and prime on my turret in single stage mode for handgun and rifle...
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snuffy
Member
"So here's the question. Are all of the BBS contributors who curse various brands of brass, having problems because they prime on their progressive and need a very consistent behaving brass to operate properly, or do the brass cursers have problems when pre-priming on a single stage/auto prime as well?"
That may be the case for SOME progressives, but my dillon 650 don't care who made the brass, it primes them all just fine. I also do the rifle shells the same way as the pistol, primed in the press. I do tend to sort the rifle brass by brand, then load them in batchs by headstamp.
That may be the case for SOME progressives, but my dillon 650 don't care who made the brass, it primes them all just fine. I also do the rifle shells the same way as the pistol, primed in the press. I do tend to sort the rifle brass by brand, then load them in batchs by headstamp.
For pistol, the only thing I do off my progressive is decap using a single stage press that is dedicated to the decapping process using the Lee universal decapping die. That way I can clean the primer pockets, and throw them into the tumbler, and inspect the cases. After that, all other operations are completed in the progressive.
Adam
Adam
loadedround
Member
Size/prime with progressive press
YellowLab: I don't do any of the above. I use a long nail and a rock to knock the primers out and a hammer and a lead pipe of the proper size to size the case. By the way do you use sliced bread?:banghead: ;
YellowLab: I don't do any of the above. I use a long nail and a rock to knock the primers out and a hammer and a lead pipe of the proper size to size the case. By the way do you use sliced bread?:banghead: ;
The Bushmaster
Member
Hummmm...That might work...The pipe, that is... Nail and a rock? How do you hold the case still? Don't even like bread...Sliced or not...
Nail and a rock? How do you hold the case still? Don't even like bread...Sliced or not...I upgraded my RL 450 with the auto-eject kit, the 550 shellplates, and the Dillon priming mechanism. After hours of fiddling with the Dillon priming gizmo and six phone calls to Dillon tech support, I gave up on it and it now rests in a box beneath my bench.
I now decap and resize large batches of brass on the first stage of my RL 450. I then inspect the cases, measure OAL, and hand-prime the brass using a Lee Auto Prime (WSP)or RCBS Priming tool (Fed Primers). After I've accumulated 300-500 sized and primed cases, I load using stages 2,3, and 4 as a progressive.
This allows me to measure and examine every case before priming. This method probably is slower than using the Dillon primer gizmo but not as slow as you would think. It also gives me less to think about and do while I'm actually reloading. I've read on other forums that some competitive shooters have turned to hand-priming their .45 acp brass with Federal primers after hearing of or experiencing primer kabooms in the Dillon primer mechanism.
My 2 cents.
Chris
I now decap and resize large batches of brass on the first stage of my RL 450. I then inspect the cases, measure OAL, and hand-prime the brass using a Lee Auto Prime (WSP)or RCBS Priming tool (Fed Primers). After I've accumulated 300-500 sized and primed cases, I load using stages 2,3, and 4 as a progressive.
This allows me to measure and examine every case before priming. This method probably is slower than using the Dillon primer gizmo but not as slow as you would think. It also gives me less to think about and do while I'm actually reloading. I've read on other forums that some competitive shooters have turned to hand-priming their .45 acp brass with Federal primers after hearing of or experiencing primer kabooms in the Dillon primer mechanism.
My 2 cents.
Chris
dpote
Member
I size/decap on my Lee Pro 1000. But I prime using a hand held priming device. First, after the brass is clean, I run it through the progressive with just a sizer/decapper. Then I prime by hand. I switch "heads" on the progressive. Powder is 1st bullet 2nd then crimp. I just don't like priming on a progressive.
Be safe,
Dave
Be safe,
Dave
redneck2
Member
I use my 550 for everything. Progressive for pistol, once step at a time for rifle (including priming)
I've read about the Dillon "primer detonation". I'm not saying it can't be done, but I can't imagine how. I've flipped, caught, and bent primers and they don't detonate (at least yet). Even if it did, only one should go off. I've used WW, Federal, and CCI's
If the primer feed goes off, I suspect somebody's been jamming something in the primer tube to get stuck primers the drop down. I used to have problems with primers hanging up in the tube on my 450. Now I've got a 550 with the low primer alarm. I have a small brass pipe fitting that I use for weight on the end of the plastic follower and the extra weight keeps them moving down
I've read about the Dillon "primer detonation". I'm not saying it can't be done, but I can't imagine how. I've flipped, caught, and bent primers and they don't detonate (at least yet). Even if it did, only one should go off. I've used WW, Federal, and CCI's
If the primer feed goes off, I suspect somebody's been jamming something in the primer tube to get stuck primers the drop down. I used to have problems with primers hanging up in the tube on my 450. Now I've got a 550 with the low primer alarm. I have a small brass pipe fitting that I use for weight on the end of the plastic follower and the extra weight keeps them moving down
My wife tells me this all the time
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