Double cringe build


Mar 9, 2022
New Mexico and Texas panhandle
Look at this dumpster fire 12 gauge.
This way I'm not ruining anything nice.
My only requirements are "can fire modern ammo, but doesn't hAvE to be 3inch". That's pretty much it.
Blueing, optional, less is better.
A nice stock, no
External rust, preferable.
A decent bore, only part of it needs to be good, as long as the first 10 to 15 inches are good.
Double trigger is a very redeeming quality. No reason not to keep the patina. That wrist is a problem. As fetching as the electrical tape is, it is not a long term fix. Based on your post, I take it that sending it off to a stock maker isn’t a plan either. Looks like a good candidate for a dowel pin and epoxy fix.

A little work should make for a good shooter. Enjoy!
The outside of the barrel is pretty rusted. I'll probably sand blast it, jam corks in the chamber and muzzel and dip it.
The bore is great, and mechanically it's also very good for a striker fired gun, only good things.
The stock finish is long gone I'll probably do dowels and like you said and then stain it real dark to help cover the repair.
I would like to parkerize the receiver, have to make sure I can disassemble it then gob up all the import surfaces with rtv.
Sounds like you have the basic plan of just getting it functional and all bets are off beyond that. Looks like a good gun to chop down and have some buckshot fun with.
Be very careful when disassembling that thing. Most of the internals are hand fitted with shims used to keep things aligned and centered. Be ready to grow a third hand for reassembly. Slave pins will be your friend. Make sketches and notes on where everything goes that falls out.
BTW, a barrel(s) shorter than 18" puts you in SBS category as does an overall length of less than 26".
Have fun. As you may guess I have some old double gun experience.
Looks like the old Ithaca I inherited from Grandpa (minus the broken butt stock). The gunsmith advised not to run heavy loads (over 1 ounce) through it, said the heat treating was not as good back then so the metal is not as strong.

The silencer shop form1 doer is pretty nice.
I'm pretty sure the silencer shop driver made like 5 attemps to get eforms to take the form1.
One thing I noticed is it I got a line item flagged for "unknown manufacturer" as if I left it blank. They have the original manufacturer listed and it was showing that part of the form1 all filled out.
I can't certify the form1 through silencershop. It kept erroring for "tax not paid".
Ended up just doing the eform1 the old fashioned way.
So I have an unused silencershop tax stamp now.
Don't write it off so soon. Looks like it could be fixed pretty easy. You may have a nice antique there. Did you check for a name or model? The stock might need a pin or a dowel, but first I would try epoxy and a couple of wood clamps. The barrels just need T.L.C. Try CLIP and a good rub down. Bluing is not necessary and may destroy it's antique value if you can determine its name and history. Remove the butt plate first, you may find all sorts of info. back there. Also look under the barrels for mfr. imprints too.
Found the S/N the place I got it from did it as a no S/N sale. Yeah you got to take it apart to find the S/N. Do'h!
Not that it matters, it's going on a form1 anyways.
One coating applied at night the dowels are barely noticeable in sunlight.
I used probably a 4 year old can of Minwax brand, poly shade, "mission oak" high gloss.
I'll probably do 1 or 2 more coats and call it good.
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Not as cringe as I thought it was going to be. Maybe half cringe or less. The enormous blocky forearm keeps my big ape hands off the hot barrel. The barely there splinter forearm is fine if you are only going to fire each barrel once or twice. No good if you are going to do wildwest larp.
The last 10 inches of barrel are all beat up, the muzzle was dropped, crushed in and then straightened back out but it has a tiny split. I'm sure it's been that way for a very long time.
The forearm is 9 inches long, there's about 2 and a half forearms worth of barrel in the pic. I didn't Weaver the barrel, yet.
This would be my second SBS.
Right now just the barrels alone are like 28'' long, overall it's over 40''.
It is just me but why would you spend $200 to register a nfa SBS that's worth about fifty bucks. Because you can, I guess. I'd pick a more modern double but that's just me. Rock on.
It is just me but why would you spend $200 to register a nfa SBS that's worth about fifty bucks. Because you can, I guess. I'd pick a more modern double but that's just me. Rock on.

As someone who has acquired some fixer-uppers, a$50 shotgun represents hours of cheap thrills. Just depends on the value you put on your time. I'd probably get crazy and provided there's enough meat in the barrels, try to get them threaded for screw in chokes. Then I'd have chokes worth more than the gun.
Pretty neat thread, keep the photos coming. This has been on my list of things to do for a little bit now. I'm always on the lookout for a worn and beaten shotgun for the project, but I'll do a pump or semi-auto. I'd like to have 4 shells at least.
If there's enough barrel meat I'll thread it for winchokes when I cut it down. I would be surprised if there wasn't.
I have an S12 that didn't have a choke. I got a poly chokeon it and that made it far more usable.