Dragoon help

[crazyjennyblack]

I have an Uberti 2nd model dragoon that I recently got a Kirst conversion cylinder for. I've cut the loading port in the frame, and other than taking all the internals out during this process, I havent done anything to the internal parts. Yes, I put them back correctly.

Problem 1 -
Kirst cylinder moves forward slightly upon cocking and binds.

Problem 2 -
Internals aren't timed right for Kirst cylinder. Chamber is about a sixteenth of an inch too far to the right when its supposed to align with the barrel. I've read that by buying another hand to work on, you can file it carefully to get the chambers to align.

Problem 3 -
After fiddling with it for so long, I think internal parts are wearing out. Hammer no longer sets into half cock, and the trigger pull at full cock is unusually light. I pulled the innards out again and the part of the trigger that meets the hammer notches looks worn, the right side of the bolt looks worn, the tip of the hand looks worn, and the hammer looks fine. Unfortunately, I didnt inspect these parts closely when I pulled them out the first time, so I don't know if any of these signs are new.

So what should I do now? I'd rather not take it to a gunsmith. My only gunsmith is 45 mins away and they're VERY expensive and not terribly good at what they do, plus they'll take 3 months at least to get my gun back to me.

VTI has all the parts I need, but I'd like to know what I should probably replace before I go buying a $25 bolt, a $16 hand, and a $15 trigger!

Thanks!

 

[Voodoochile]

First Question:
Did the Dragoon function & fire like it was supposed to before you started to modify it for the Kirst Conversion Cylinder?

Second:
Do you have experience in gunsmithing?
Meaning behind this question is more on safety than function because being that this is a firearm if you get the trigger for instance too light it can be a safety issue when you cock the hammer into battery.

 

[crazyjennyblack]

Voodoochile -
Yes, it was fine before I installed the Kirst. Also, it still works fine with the original cylinder except for the half-cock and trigger issue.

Also, I have done some personal gunsmithing stuff. Hack jobs, to be sure, but they worked. I've refitted and finished a Pietta 1863 remington, a Stevens .22, and a couple of shotguns. I've also tinkered on other stuff, but I've had no formal training. Basically, this means I can do simple stuff using hand tools as long as I have instructions to work from (you know - your basic "beat to fit, file to suit, and paint to match")

 

[madcratebuilder]

(you know - your basic "beat to fit, file to suit, and paint to match")

You're a journeyman, I'm still in the hammer to fit, paint to hide stage.

A 1/16 inch alignment problem with the chambers is a awful lot to adjust by fitting a new bolt. How much cylinder end play do you have? .006-.008 should be max.

 

[arcticap]

I would be concerned that if once the Kirst conversion is fitted that the C&B cylinder will no longer fit and function properly.
Perhaps there's a more complicated problem than the replacement parts alone will solve.
For the price of the Kirst conversion, it doesn't sound like a good trade off to not have both cylinders properly fitted and in working order.
Why not arrange to send it to Kirst or Jay Strite of Raven's Roost Custom Gunsmithing in Texas who is in a partnership with Kirst. His credentials are impressive. It's probably worth contacting him, at least for advice on how to proceed.

http://www.ravensroostcustom.com/601.html

RAVENS ROOST IS NOW LOCATED IN GATESVILLE, TEXAS!!

We have also merged with Kirst Konverters to form KIRST KONVERTER LLC!

We will be putting all gunsmithing information on the Kirst Konverter site soon.
(That's www.KirstKonverter.com)

NEW ADDRESS:

407 S. 6TH STREET
GATESVILLE, TX 76528
254-248-0663