Dry patches never come out clean!

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BullHeadedGideon

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Hello guys & gals.

So like the title says... I'm totally confused lol.

I've shot LESS THAN 20 ROUNDS through my Mosin Nagant. Granted, it was TulAmmo; but still!

Am I missing something here?

If my process & equipment matter, I'm dipping a brass bore brush in Hoppe's no.9 gun bore cleaner, pulling it thru my bore about 8 times, then running dry patches thru it. I've done this so many times, & they're still coming out completely black.

I've read it could be caused by using a brass brush as opposed to nylon.

1) Could that be true?

2) Anybody have recommendations for nylon cleaning kit brands/where I can them? I'm looking on amazon, & can't seem to find any. They're either brass bore brushes or nylon "non-bore brushes?" Lol (the ones that look like double-sided tooth brushes.

Thank you all in advance for your responses,

Bull.
 
IMG_20200513_224750.jpg This stuff works great. Cleans like nothing else. I'm biased as this is the only product I've tried.
 
you may simply be reintroducing fouling back into the bore with the brush. after brushing just push a couple wet patches through to pull out the fouling until they come out mostly clean, then a dry patch or 2. if at this point you put the same brush back into the bore you just used to scrub it with, patches will come out looking dirty again, but you're not necessarily making the bore any cleaner. I do something like, wet patch, repeat wet patch until they don't look real dirty, then wet patch and let sit, then wet patch - it will look kind of dirty again, then solvent soaked brush, wet patch, again until mostly clean looking … then repeat solvent brushing or simply dry patch until they come out clean to remove all solvent and oil to finish.
 
I have never seen a Mosin Nagant clean up completely. Brass or Nylon brush, foaming cleaner, favorite bore cleaner doesn't matter. I shoot mainly corrosive surplus ammo and run a few water damp patches then a couple of dry ones followed by 3-4 patches of either Hoppes or Ballistol. That's just my experience. HTH.
 
Bull, until I discovered Boretech I always had the same experience - I would soak/scrub/soak/scrub/soak (ad nauseam) with the old ammonia based cleaners (sometimes for several days of the same regiment) and the patches still came out dirty. Using Boretech Eliminator took most of the time and toil out if my bore cleaning - now it is about a 15 minute job with a shiny/ residue free bore as the result - great, great stuff.
 
Boretech eliminator makes cleaning stupid easy. It works great on copper, and is the best I've found for lead. Basically I am done looking for a better solvent.
 
bdickens said:
Give it up.

No need to be that anal about it anyway.
Click to expand...


Well, except for the possible corrosive residues left from the ammo, but if you've used watery stuff in the bore, that has removed that residue. And there's also jacket fouling that has to be removed.

But more guns, cameras, small boys, and coffeepots have been ruined by excessive cleaning than any other single cause. :)

Yeah, I've said that before, and hang around long enough and you'll hear me say it again.

Terry. 230RN

Edited to correct typo.
 
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Gotcha.

film495 said:
I do something like, wet patch, repeat wet patch until they don't look real dirty, then wet patch and let sit, then wet patch - it will look kind of dirty again, then solvent soaked brush, wet patch, again until mostly clean looking … then repeat solvent brushing or simply dry patch until they come out clean to remove all solvent and oil to finish.
Click to expand...

Excuse my ignorance (lol); but when you say "wet patch," you mean a patch with bore cleaner?
 
And I would hit it with some jb bore paste. Some people freak out over it, but it really helps with those old rifles.
 
It took 3 hours of work to get my Russian Capture 1940 Mauser production K98K from a sewer pipe with spiraling to shiny with slight frost in the grooves. I had to use a .338 bronze bore brush on a cordless drill to make any headway and half a bottle of Hoppes.
 
Steve S. said:
Bull, until I discovered Boretech I always had the same experience - I would soak/scrub/soak/scrub/soak (ad nauseam) with the old ammonia based cleaners (sometimes for several days of the same regiment) and the patches still came out dirty. Using Boretech Eliminator took most of the time and toil out if my bore cleaning - now it is about a 15 minute job with a shiny/ residue free bore as the result - great, great stuff.
Click to expand...

MCFLYFYTER said:
Boretech eliminator makes cleaning stupid easy. It works great on copper, and is the best I've found for lead. Basically I am done looking for a better solvent.
Click to expand...

I've got a question for you guys... I've heard that if you fire a lot of corrosive ammo, you've got to use an ammonia-based solvent to get rid of the residue that absorbs moisture...

Question is, if this is true: does Boretech Eliminator get rid of that corrosive residue that absorbs moisture?
 
BullHeadedGideon said:
Jesus, man. Well, congrats on the success haha.
Click to expand...

I think it was a combo of dried cosmoline, powder fouling and crystalized yak urine. Let's just say what flowed-out onto the paper towels under the gun wasn't nice. However, it did shoot about 3 MOA with the first 5 rounds I put through it afterwards, so it was worth it.
 
yea, I mean with solvent, but - I don't know what ammo you are using. some people use water for corrosive or black powder, so - just sort of sharing the process I've figured out - only takes 10 minutes, where I was sometimes scrubbing a bore for hours and hours, and still going. The main thing I'm trying to share is when I learned to do this, I was fooling myself - because I was brushing several times, and just getting a little crud back in the bore off the brush, and the patch would never come out clean right after brushing.

also, I've cleaned a rifle again after a few weeks or months of not having fired it - and given it a clean, and one would say it had just fired at least a couple rounds, cause more crud comes out. my take is clean them pretty good - then get them out a few weeks or so later and clean them again if they are going to sit for a while, for whatever reason, more crud always seems to come out - even though it was cleaned already. must seep out of the microscopic pores or something. Even rifles I have that I've never fired, have cleaned twice a year for 3 years - each time, more crud. Bores look like mirrors, but - crud forever, even never having fired them.
 
Bull, Boretech Eliminator is a water base product, perfect for corrosive primer residue.
This product gets discussed occasionally and poo-pooed a lot by the “old school” on this forum. I am 65 and old school by default but I will tell you that nothing will clean your bore better than Boretech Eliminator - zero odor, no scrubbing - wet patch thru the bore, let sit for 5 minutes, brush thru bore, clean as a whistle - repeat on a heavily copper/ lead washed barrel if necessary.
I have used most of the ammonia-based products over the years, nothing comes close to the efficiency of Eliminator - it amazed me the first couple of times I used it on heavy copper wash and cylinder face leading - sparkling clean. I use nothing else when cleaning now.
I also agree that your need to clean any further than you described is unnecessary - if the barrel is not squeaky clean, nothing will be harmed as long as the corrosive residue is removed on the first couple of passes. I use Boretech and I like squeaky clean bores because I have the “anal” disease - my extreme cleaning requirements are far from necessary for the health of a firearm but that is what I do.
 
I only tried boretech because people were making outlandish claims that were total BS. I have never been happier to have been wrong. Sweets 7.62 probably works just as well as Boretech on copper, but it is nasty stuff.
 
And after all ypur scrubbing and wiping and wire brushing and gleaminating and so on, I recall that they used to allow fouling rounds at sanctioned matches before your sighters and firing for record.

I wonder why? :)

Terry
 
BullHeadedGideon said:
Hello guys & gals.

So like the title says... I'm totally confused lol.

I've shot LESS THAN 20 ROUNDS through my Mosin Nagant. Granted, it was TulAmmo; but still!

Am I missing something here?

If my process & equipment matter, I'm dipping a brass bore brush in Hoppe's no.9 gun bore cleaner, pulling it thru my bore about 8 times, then running dry patches thru it. I've done this so many times, & they're still coming out completely black.

I've read it could be caused by using a brass brush as opposed to nylon.

1) Could that be true?

2) Anybody have recommendations for nylon cleaning kit brands/where I can them? I'm looking on amazon, & can't seem to find any. They're either brass bore brushes or nylon "non-bore brushes?" Lol (the ones that look like double-sided tooth brushes.

Thank you all in advance for your responses,

Bull.
Click to expand...
There was one time I did hours worth of work to get mine to come out totally clean, I’ll never do it again. My Mosin shoots considerably better dirty. I clean out the corrosive salts with a 50/50 water/ballistol mix when shooting milsurp ammo and leave it at that, clean patches or not.

Call me dirty if you want but I think a lot of people have too strict a definition of what ‘clean’ should look like for guns (not just milsurp) in general. Unless you’re a competitive shooter or shoot a ton of black powder, the extra time and effort you’re putting in for an arbitrary goal is providing you next to zero advantage. That’s just my opinion though.
 
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BullHeadedGideon said:
I've got a question for you guys... I've heard that if you fire a lot of corrosive ammo, you've got to use an ammonia-based solvent to get rid of the residue that absorbs moisture...

Question is, if this is true: does Boretech Eliminator get rid of that corrosive residue that absorbs moisture?
Click to expand...
No. Water is the universal solvent because it’s polar. Use water.
 
Like everything else gun related, there are two different camps.

1 Just knock the powder fouling out, because it's just going to get dirty again.

2 Remove as much fouling as you can, and over time (and a little lapping) it will foul less and be easier to clean next time.

Camp 2 requires a reasonably good bore without pitting and such.
 
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