Sewer Pipe Cleaning

[dh1633pm]

I know how to clean a bore. Been cleaning rifles all my life. Even in the military. I know what I like and I know what I don't. Got the supplies. Got good equipment. Nice supply of patches, brushes, and all the magic potions.

What does one use to clean those sewer pipe bores that never seem to be clean ever. You clean, run the patches dark brown til clean, then you clean again, and get the same results over and over. Has to be something that works faster. Working on a K98, so mad at it I purchased a replacement barrel. Its a mix gun to begin with, but its my representative K98. I can't get the bore clean like my other rifles. Help!

 

[earlthegoat2]

Foaming bore cleaner?

 

[dh1633pm]

Used Wipe Out. Worked like regular bore cleaner. After another round of cleaning same brown patches.

 

[LoonWulf]

probably rusty, use a penetrating oil, over sized bronze brush and scrub the crap out of it. If you use an electronic bore cleaner it will probably pull the rust out of the pits which can make it worse. Im working on a 70s model 70 that has lived in horrible conditions, and probably hasnt been cleaned since the 70s. Its got another day worth of cleaning before i just take the barrel off and replace it.

 

[entropy]

Pull the barreled action from the wood, and fire up the shower good and hot. Grab your best cleaning rod, and an oversize bore brush. (.35 or even .40 in this case.) Hold the action in a towel, and hold the barrel under the hot water and let it run through for about a minute. Then put the brush in and scrub for a minute. Then let the water run through it again, scrub, etc, until the water starts to cool off. Pull it out and wipe it down, run patches through the bore, clean the action out good, use an air hose if you have one. Then you can start in with the JB Bore Paste.

 

[Blue68f100]

My go to gun cleaner is the JB Bore Shine. This stuff comes in a glass jar for a reason. I find that it will remove most every thing left behind by other cleaners. Use a well ventilated area and wear gloves.

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

Make an electronic bore cleaner. Works like electrolysis, uses a wall wart for electrical supply.

you can buy one, but they are cheap to make and work well

 

[dh1633pm]

So I take a wall plug apart. Positive on one side of something like a piece of copper and negative on the other side. Place rifle in tank and over time the copper will collect the gunk and the barrel gives it up. Something like this?

 

[Dibbs]

Automatic Transmission Fluid. Let it work, while YOU sleep.

Brush solvent. (paintbrush) You can get a quart can at any decent hardware store, about 7$ .

Brown Vinegar. Brush it in, let it soak for about half an hour.

An old Garand I picked up, before I had any experience buying used guns taught me three lessons:

1. ALWAYS check the bore, with a light, before making an offer.
2. Once a bore is sewer pipe, it's a hard road, to get it back to clean
3. Folks won't hesitate to sell garbage, at LNIB rates. They won't even bat an eye.

 

[Kp321]

Don’t do any cleaning until you have put some rounds down the barrel. It is surprising how much crud is pushed out of the bore with a few jacketed rounds. Then go after the bore with copper solvent followed by Kroil or ATF.

 

[dh1633pm]

I always look at the bore. This one was bad and the rifle was priced accordingly. I was happy with the purchase. Have a spare barrel just in case. Kp321, I thought hard about your suggestion. Hard to shoot with lock downs in place right now.

 

[boom boom]

Electrolysis whether by the discontinued Foul Out system or by home made types does the best with stripping it down to bare metal. Old bores generally come out grey. Somewhere on the THR, I posted links to home brewed Foul Out type formulas which are separate for lead versus copper fouling.
https://www.marlinowners.com/forum/...ul-out-cop-out-plus-lead-out-plus-recipe.html

Depending on the degree of pitting, you may have to clean and scrub in between with choreboy and a powder solvent to remove hardened carbon fouling layers over metal fouling. Wipeout might be a first option.

Old military rifles often take multiple cleanings to get down to the original metal which then promptly fouls again but this can often fill the pitting making the rifle shoot a bit better.

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

So I take a wall plug apart. Positive on one side of something like a piece of copper and negative on the other side. Place rifle in tank and over time the copper will collect the gunk and the barrel gives it up. Something like this?

that’s the gist of it, but there’s a little more to it. BoomBoom refers to a solution above that you’ll need to use in conjunction with the electrical current.

Negative goes to the anode (the rod you stick in the barrel) and positive to the barrel. Fill the barrel with solution plug in the wall wart and walk away for awhile.

It may take the shine out of it, but you’ll be amazed at what will come out of it.

I think i can find some instructions-will post em here when i do

edited to add: lots of different ways to slice this onion, but I’d look at post 7 of this thread: https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?238133-quot-Electronic-quot-Bore-Cleaners

I’d recommend the wall wart instead of doing a bunch of extra work. Just cut off the end that would connect to the appliance, pull and strip the wires and go.

would also use a mild steel rod instead of stainless. And a solution that uses simple baking soda and water. Or washing soda and water (better). If you do it like that you can dump the waste down the sink.

 

[dh1633pm]

I worked on this everyday since last week. I didn't go was far as do electrolysis but it was high on my list. I did soak with vinegar using a plug. I also used brake cleaner (outside of course). Then I tried Big 45 Frontier. That stuff works. Not totally there yet, but it looks like a barrel inside again. There is no pitting that is visible. Rifling is very visible, something that wasn't before. Does it look bright and shiny, I wish. It does look it it wants to be shot. Thank you your input. I got to get electrolysis working, I have a few rusty things that could take benefit.

 

[LoonWulf]

I worked on this everyday since last week. I didn't go was far as do electrolysis but it was high on my list. I did soak with vinegar using a plug. I also used brake cleaner (outside of course). Then I tried Big 45 Frontier. That stuff works. Not totally there yet, but it looks like a barrel inside again. There is no pitting that is visible. Rifling is very visible, something that wasn't before. Does it look bright and shiny, I wish. It does look it it wants to be shot. Thank you your input. I got to get electrolysis working, I have a few rusty things that could take benefit.

Ive got one made if you want it, i dont use it anymore simply because it DOES pull literally everything out, and none of my current guns would benefit from it.
I lost or used rhe anode for something else years ago tho so youll need to make a new one.

 

[boom boom]

I worked on this everyday since last week. I didn't go was far as do electrolysis but it was high on my list. I did soak with vinegar using a plug. I also used brake cleaner (outside of course). Then I tried Big 45 Frontier. That stuff works. Not totally there yet, but it looks like a barrel inside again. There is no pitting that is visible. Rifling is very visible, something that wasn't before. Does it look bright and shiny, I wish. It does look it it wants to be shot. Thank you your input. I got to get electrolysis working, I have a few rusty things that could take benefit.

The lack of pitting is great news!!! The dull finish is usually caused by micro-pitting that generally does not affect the way that it shoots--a Teslong bore scope is actually pretty good and cheap if you want to know a bit more about the bore.

Ironically, sometimes the fouling actually protects the barrel and its rifling from worse problems. I too use strands of the Big 45 Frontier wool too on tough barrels as it works a bit better than Choreboy copper or bronze wool.

If you have not already done so, make sure that you neutralize any acids like vinegar though by flushing with hot water or use of old timey bore solvents such as Hoppes #9.

 

[dh1633pm]

After I soaked it I used a pot of boiling water to wash things out. I am going to reassemble. I have to put in a cross bolt that I got from Gunny that was missing.

 

[dh1633pm]

Loonwolf that you for your offer. What does it consist of? I would like to say yes, but I know the shipping would be a lot. Of course I am happy to pay that and then some.

 

[LoonWulf]

Loonwolf that you for your officer. What does it consist of? I would like to say yes, but I know the shipping would be a lot. Of course I am happy to pay that and then some.

Its basically just an ac/dc multi voltage converter with little alligator clamps attached to the leads, Ill have to go dig it out of one of the parts boxes, or id just post a pictures. They are very simple lol.

You then use a stopper that fits the chamber or throat of your rifle with a hole in the center for your anode to rest in and at least one oring, or some other nonconductive thing at the muzzle to keep the anode from touching the barrel. ...Ive got the power source, and orings, dont have...well dont THINK if have stoppers anymore.

 

[LoonWulf]

Dat guy!


and yeah its been a while since i used it....ill ill alcohol the mold off lol

hehehe...gotta clean the cleaner.....

 

[BBBBill]

I made a horizontal de-rusting tank from a piece of left over 6" diameter PVC about 4 feet long with a couple endcaps. Capped the ends, cut about half way through just inboard of the end caps, then horizontally to join the cuts. Made some stands from scrap plywood. Distilled water, Arm & Hammer washing powder, a battery charger, some scrap wire, and a piece of steel flat stock as an anode. Made another one for vertical use leaving the pipe full diameter. Made a plywood and 2x4 stand for it. Anodes from 3/4" flat stock arranged around the inner circumference and a piece of all thread with rubber spacer washers to go through the bores of old shotguns.
They work great.

 

[dh1633pm]

Now that the sewer pipe looks like a bore again, I took the time after my first real motorcycle ride this year (one lap of Oneida Lake), to put the K98 back together. I didn't have a cross bolt for the stock, so last October or so Gunny sent me one along with an excellent para cord dog leash he makes. I put the part away since I had just moved into the new house and didn't have time. Today when I put things back together, I completed the last missing part. Now I have a complete representative K98 with laminate stock and cup style butt plate. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. It really helped me get this thing together. Oh, put a replica sling on it as well.

 

[dh1633pm]

Picture of the K98.

 

[dh1633pm]

I found some old Egyptian 8 mm. Never shot this rifle since I cleaned it up and got the bore looking good. So I took it out today for the first time. I know, need to get out to the range more often. Had to adjust the rear sight just a bit and was then hitting the metal plate standing at just over 100 yards. This is the proof of the help and suggestions I received here. Thanks.

 

[wiscoaster]

Whichever method you use, once isn't going to do it. You have to clean it ... shoot it ... clean it ... shoot it ... clean it .. shoot it ... etc etc as many times as necessary to get it to where you're happy with it.