Dumb FN-FAL questions

[General Disarray]

As dumb as these questions may seem (it's okay; I know they are), I just got a FAL, and I want to make sure I do the right things. I don't have anyone around to take me through it so maybe someone here can help me?:

1) 7.62 is the same as .308; or rather they'll both work in this metric FAL right?
2) I just greased everything that looked like it would move with Tetra gun grease. It was totally dry; any special spots I should know about.
3) It's unfired since it was built. It looks like it was never fired. Do I have to break it in like I did my DPMS LR-308?
4)Is it possible that it's never been fired before it was imported? I don't know how to tell. All the parkerizing inside and out is flawless. It's an Israeli heavy barrel kit on an Imbel. Pics are in this thread: http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=396151
5) Do I have to do anything to the gas system to start out?

I have poked around the fal files forum, but there's almost too much info. I am registered there, but I can't actually start new threads there for some reason; there's not "New Thread" tab when I'm logged in. Anyways, I'm not completely uninformed about these BTW, I just haven't been around one in a while, and that one wasn't mine. It was a crappy one at that, and this one is pristine. I don't want to wreck anything, ya know? All help is helpful. Thanks.

 

[Ash]

You will start out at the lowest gas setting and work your way up until it cycles reliably. It could be unfired, as some of these kits came in new condition. However, it could just as easily be refinished. It's hard to tell. However, if the rifling looks great and the parts are in excellent condition (under the finish) then there is nothing to worry about.

There is no break in. You adjust the system until it fires reliably. You may find that after many many rounds, you have to adjust the gas system down a bit as your rounds are being flung into the next state, but otherwise the only break in you will have will be the finish wearing smooth on action parts from firing.

Ash

 

[AndyC]

1) 7.62 is the same as .308; or rather they'll both work in this metric FAL right?

If the rifle is head-spaced correctly, yup.

2) I just greased everything that looked like it would move with Tetra gun grease. It was totally dry; any special spots I should know about.

Nope; I usually just put a touch of lube on the bolt-carrier rails and shoot it (too much lube just attracts dust).

3) It's unfired since it was built. It looks like it was never fired. Do I have to break it in like I did my DPMS LR-308?

Cycle the action by hand a few hundred times first to get rid of excess parkerizing on the rails Just shoot it.

4)Is it possible that it's never been fired before it was imported? I don't know how to tell. All the parkerizing inside and out is flawless. It's an Israeli heavy barrel kit on an Imbel. Pics are in this thread: http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=396151

Some parts might be brand-new, some are going to be used parts - it's not a problem as long as they're all in-spec.

5) Do I have to do anything to the gas system to start out?

I set the gas to mid-way and just shoot it; if the brass doesn't eject, add more gas - if it ejects too hard or bends the rims, dial the gas back down.

 

[kfranz]

It wasn't imported, it was built here from an Izzy kit and an Imbel receiver. Good parts to start with should make a good gun. If it were mine, I'd slap in a mag and let'er rip, but I'm impulsive that way. After that, I'd go back and do what AndyC and Ash said

 

[General Disarray]

I can't wait to get off of work. This thing is so impressive just looking at it. I'm going to have to switch out the furniture though. It's way too heavy to actually shoot off-hand. Maybe just taking the bi-pod off will help, but it weigh a lot.

What is the bi-pod and furniture worth if I were to sell it?

 

[LegalAlien]

Remember to keep the gas system dry. No lube anywhere on the piston or anywhere.

Light lube on the bolt carrier rails - maybe a small drop in the recoil spring

 

[kfranz]

Maybe just taking the bi-pod off will help, but it weigh a lot.

What is the bi-pod and furniture worth if I were to sell it?

Not really enough to make it worth it should you decide to sell the whole thing down the road.

 

[General Disarray]

SELL IT???

 

[General Disarray]

Any recommendations on good deals for furniture? Fiberglass or steal? I'm taking this bulky wood off, and definitely the bi-pod. If they'll help the resale then I'll keep them, but I can't imagine ever selling it. I want to shoot it off-hand with iron sights to start with. I'm thinking fiberglass due to lightness and heat reduction. What say ye?

 

[A square 10]

i just picked one up this year as well , but mine came without the bipod and i had to find one , keep it it may be important someday ,

no intent to hijack here but im used to more photos and new to this site i notice youall are shy on that , so may i post them ?









that was how it came - mine is imported , late 60s , and similar to yours its had very few rounds thru it ,

 

[W.E.G.]

DSA makes a very good new plastic handguard with metal ferrule on the foreward end.

I disagree with the "no lube on the gas system" comment.
Indeed, the gas system requires no lube for proper function.
However, if you just leave it dry it will rust like the bejeezus.
Ask me how I know.
Spray it with CLP, and wipe off any excess.
The CLP residue will protect your gas system from rust, and it will burn off without incident after just a few shots.

If your rifle is not already equipped with a "humpback" stock, you will want to get one. The straight-comb stocks are really only suitable if you have strange facial-bone structure, or if you only shoot the rifle when it is equipped with an optic sight.

ETA
I just looked at your pics.
You have an Izzy HB gun.
Those guns are pretty unique.
Fitting that gun with conventional handguards could be tough.
Izzy HB's have an oversize "handguard ring." Conventional HG's won't fit without some significant mods.

I wouldn't try to make THAT gun into anything other than what it already is.
I would trade it for something else before I tried to put an Izzy HB on some sort of diet.

 

[Ash]

You have a heavy-barrel with heavy-barrel handguards. So, you have to replace heavy-barrel handguards with the same types. Standard light barrel handguards won't work. DON'T GET RID OF THE CURRENT FURNITURE OR BIPOD because they will affect the resale big time.

Ash

 

[Stevie-Ray]

DSA makes a very good new plastic handguard with metal ferrule on the foreward end.

I disagree with the "no lube on the gas system" comment.
Indeed, the gas system requires no lube for proper function.
However, if you just leave it dry it will rust like the bejeezus.
Ask me how I know.
Spray it with CLP, and wipe off any excess.
The CLP residue will protect your gas system from rust, and it will burn off without incident after just a few shots.

If your rifle is not already equipped with a "humpback" stock, you will want to get one. The straight-comb stocks are really only suitable if you have strange facial-bone structure, or if you only shoot the rifle when it is equipped with an optic sight.

ETA
I just looked at your pics.
You have an Izzy HB gun.
Those guns are pretty unique.
Fitting that gun with conventional handguards could be tough.
Izzy HB's have an oversize "handguard ring." Conventional HG's won't fit without some significant mods.

I wouldn't try to make THAT gun into anything other than what it already is.
I would trade it for something else before I tried to put an Izzy HB on some sort of diet.

Yeah, what he said.
I wouldn't change a thing. I love mine and she's a sweet shooter. I enjoy shooting it way more than my AR-15. Got it new a long time ago, an SAR-48. Fjestads put mine at about $1800. Not a bad return on $645.