Durability mods for an alloy framed Gov't. Model? (long)

[W Turner]

Tuner, Fuff, etc. please chime in..

I recently bought a Springfield Loaded Lightweight Bi-Tone 5" and absolutely love it. This is my primary carry pistol and has been impressive in terms of fit, finish, and accuracy (3" at 25yds. if I am having a good day). The only reliability bobbles have been with a Cor-Bon 200gr. JHP (very aggressive hp cavity) at about round number 125 and one of my reloads (mixed brass with 230 JRN over 8.0gr of AA#5, 1.26 OAL) at about round number 175. The Cor-Bon hung up on the feed ramp and the reload was a FTE that was likely casued by limp-wristing. Total rounds right now are right around 400.

I know that alloy frames are lasting much longer than they used to and I have no reason to think that this one will be any different. I am not a high volume shooter (200 rounds (+/- 50) per month in each pistol after a 500 round break-in) so this should not be an issue, but with this being my carry pistol, I would like to hedge my bets. I shoot standard pressure ammo for my carry loads (WWB 230 JHP) and I will be changing my powder (Winchester 231 or Unique) to reduce my practice loads a little as my current reloads are running at about 830fps and I would like to get the velocity around 750 or so to save wear and tear on my gun.

All this lead in was to set up my main question...

What mods can be done to insure a long-life for the alloy frame? I have already thought about doing the oversized firing pin stop from EGW, but that was as far as I had gotten. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

BTW- Please don't recommend using recoil buffers or the like or to just buy an all-steel Gov't. Model. I like to practice with my carry gun and the recoil buffer is one more thing that Mr. Murphy could use to his advantage.

Thanks in advance,
W

 

[Jim Watson]

I would use a buffer for practice and take it out when cleaning the gun for carry.

Keep a fresh recoil spring in place. Try an 18 lb (GI is 16) and see if you get reliable operation. While a squared firing pin stop would delay the start of slide recoil I don't know if it would affect velocity at the end of travel. Maybe Tuner knows.

Layne Simpson once wrote about a steel recoil insert for aluminum frames but did not show a picture.

Don't make any substantial changes in the gun. It DOES have a lifetime guarantee as long as you can send it in busted to SA in stock condition.

 

[W Turner]

Thanks, for the suggestions Jim, they do raise a few questions though...

Using the buffer for practice is a pretty good idea. I hadn't thought of that. Have you tried this with yours? Should it just drop in and work with the factory FLGR?
I had thought about upping the recoil spring, but it seems like it would be a trade-off, i.e., the rearward velocity would be reduced, but the forward velocity would then be increased. Then again, the increased forward velocity would only affect the slide stop, thus saving the frame right?

The only mods I am interested in are parts replacement and fitting. I will keep all of the factory parts in case it has to go back to S/A for anything. Not interested in any permanent changes like machine work or anything of that nature.

W

 

[Sean Smith]

Increasing the recoil spring causes more problems than just wearing the slide stop. I'd say not to bother, really.

 

[grendelbane]

The small radius firing pin stop from EGW sounds like a good idea. It certainly helped slow down the slide velocity on my Delta Elite.

 

[mete]

I don't see the problem with a neoprene buffer,I use one without problems . As long a s you understand that they must be replaced after a while .

 

[BluesBear]

Then again, the increased forward velocity would only affect the slide stop, thus saving the frame right?

Not right, since the slide stop goes through a hole in, you guessed it, the frame.

In the past, I fired 400 to 800 rounds per month through a Lightweight Commander for over five years with no signs of excess wear. The only reason I sold it was because I was divesting myself of all of my pre-80 series Colt's.

 

[harrydog]

Sean Smith said:
"Increasing the recoil spring causes more problems than just wearing the slide stop. I'd say not to bother, really."

Would you please explain a bit more about what problems it causes?

Paul Liebenberg has set my pistol up with a 20# spring and it works just fine. Another shooter who was having problems with his Baer, replaced it with a 20# spring at Paul's recommendation and it now runs flawlessly.

Wolff gun springs website states:

"How heavy should my recoil spring be? What weight recoil spring should I use with a particular load?
These are two very hard questions to answer in exact terms and in most cases an exact answer is not possible. There are many factors which influence the correct weight recoil spring to use. These factors include the particular ammunition brand and load, individual pistol characteristics, individual shooting styles and your individual, subjective feeling of how the gun shoots and should feel. In general terms, the heaviest recoil spring that will allow the pistol to function reliably is the best choice - tempered by the above factors. If your casings are hitting the ground in the 3 to 6 foot range, then the recoil spring is approximately correct. If you are ejecting beyond the 6-8 foot range, then a heavier recoil spring is generally required. If your casings are ejecting less than 3 feet a lighter recoil spring may be needed to assure proper functioning. Taking these factors into consideration, it then comes down to how the gun feels and performs when shooting - in your judgment. Using too light a recoil spring can result in damage to the pistol and possible injury to you."

 

[45auto]

I would "confirm" with Springfield if their lifetime warranty covers a cracked frame, if you take care of the gun which you are trying to do! And some cracks don't affect the function of the gun, i.e. dustcover cracks. But, you still don't want them.

If it's covered, I'd "shoot away".

With the low round counts you mentioned, if you did have a problem, it might be 10-15 years from now! In a couple of years, if it's still your best carry gun, buy another and you are set "for life" and more!

There is a FLGR that has a buffer on both sides, no metal contact, which might be worth a try. Can't remember the name. For carry, replace with your stock rod.

 

[harrydog]

For what it's worth, Bar-Sto makes a dual recoil spring guide rod that is probably far more effective than a shock buff. I don't think they advertise them on their website, but they do have them. There are other similar solutions out there as well, but I can't think of the company names offhand. Just another option to consider if you're concerned with battering the frame.