Embarking on a bullet collator project!

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Paddy

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So, after dicking around for much too long with thehornady bullet feeder die in 45acp with the clear "linens n things" tube (sans collator) I decided that the engineering in the die was incorrect. Not that it won't work for some people but for me, no amount of polishing, adjusting, and swearing would make it work right. It would double feed, or not feed a bullet about 30% or more of the time. So, long story short, I purchased a double alpha bullet dropper die and WOW! It only takes two seconds looking at it to tell this is "correct" engineering. I'm sorry hornady, I love you, and you have good engineers and products, but you should give up on is collet baloney and admit defeat. The DA dropper works, every time, to the last bullet. It does so, not because it wants to, but because it HAS to..
anyway, this thing is so nice it inspired me to make a feeder for it. So, I'm going to try.

To choose a design so far I've focused on complaints from other users about other designs. People tend to love what they have so to me complaints help tell a story sometimes more honestly than praise.

The hornady is apparently very loud, but has a sort of universal bullet plate and adjustable spring fingers that sort and spit bulets tha are not ordinated correct. This has advantage of less parts, but potentially time consuming to dial in for different calibers or bullet shapes.

The mrbubullet feeder seems solid, and I like how ey flip the upside down bullets. This is the style I've seen replicated at home and I think I will head that direction as well.

I don't have a gear motor sourced yet but I've aqcuired a plastic cutting board that I salvaged some high density 1/2" thick plastic, and then promptly launched it out of my lathe while truing the edge, damaging it. Amazon seems to have 1/2" cutting boards at 5$/ sq/ft s I ordered a large one of those. I also found a chunk of large aluminum pipe with 7.5" ID so this will be my collator body. Welding a plate to its base will give a solid platform to mount motors to and easy attaching of parts.

Anyone who has input please chime in! My focus on this project right away will be for 45acp and maybe 308 in various weights and shapes. One concern is being able to easily and reliably change bullet shapes and still have the collator work. Some feeder designs seem dependent on bullet shape. Ie, round nose, hollow points, or in the case of the 308, needs to accommodate a large range of lengths.
 

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I have built a number of collators. My first was once I found out how much an MA Systems collator cost. it had a cull device that ensured 100% base down bullets.

The design I use now is my version of the old KISS collator made from PVC and 1/2" plastic.
 
Your stuff has been a major inspiration to me jmorris! I had some shop time tonight and made some progresses on things. As my closes end mill is .500, that's what I used in hopes that a .451 bullet will find a pleasant home there. Found a nice bearing block and a chunk of shafting for the drive hub and welded up a plate on the pipe.
 

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Jmorris, do you have any suggestions on a gear motor for this project? I don't think I have any donors laying around. Seems like about 8rpm is the sweet spot. Not sure what torque or hp though.
 

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Can this DA bullet feed drop die work with the clear plastic tubing that you had on your Hornady BFD,and if the answer is yes , does it also feed 230 gr lead RN bullets. Looks very promising.
bcbsr
 
Yes, and even easier. The outside of the bullet feeder is the same diameter as my clear tube. So, some thin wall 3/4" aluminum tube laying around slipped over the end made a perfect fit. Didn't even fix it to the die, or the clear tube.

Unlike other droppers, the tube and whole bullet stack will bump up about 1/4" each time it drops a bullet. So, I will need some sort of slip coupling or spring section if I ever get the collator functioning.

Yes it is a sloppy fit for a 45 inside, I tried it with powder coated .452 (maybe .454 as tested), no problemo. The die is only two anodized aluminum parts, with three replaceable ball bearings inside that are timed as such to open and close, just like a compressed air fitting. Simple, elegant and highly adjustable. They appear to make a die extender for them too, for .308 cases that might be too high, but I'm after it for 300blk for now, so no need for that. I was examining the new hornady rifle die setup, because it seats also, but it's much more $, and they state that it won't work on shorties like 300blk. Very glad I went with this DA version instead.
 
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Looks like you have the hard part done, I made jigs for the spacing of the slots on mine.

DSC01472.jpg

The bottom of mine is 1/2" thick, so I just counter bored it so the nuts that held the motor in place were below flush with the top disk. A 1/8" hole drilled through the shaft of a Dayton 2L006 with a roll pin installed is the drive key. The slot milled through the bottom for installing and not all the way through the disk to keep grit off the motor shaft.

DSC01537.jpg

I use coil spring material to make any bends and either aluminum or copper for switch holders to shut off the collators when the tubes are full.

feeder1.jpg

IMG00341-20101213-1504.jpg
 
This is the part that makes it work though, the flipper.

The slot below is made so a base down bullet will ride by and drop into the feed tube.

IMAG0376-1.jpg

The reduced OD of the tip of the bullet will drop into the slot.

IMAG0375-1.jpg

As the disk rotates it drags the tip out and lays the bullet down on its side.

IMAG0374-1.jpg

Then back up the ramp putting it base down, like the left bullet in the first photo.

I strongly suggest this part be removable, they are different for different caliber bullets and on some short fat bullets takes a few attempts to get one just right. Rifle bullets are easy though.
 
Watch this video on Vimeo:
https://vimeo.com/119206827

Got it running, and then "improved it" to the point that it doesn't work at all haha. But I'm seeing why they make the flip ramp adjustable now. Also, I'm having trouble with the angle of the hopper. It seems it's either too high and lifts the bullets out of the slot, or too shallow and pushes them forward out of the slot, and also they don't want to slide down the face of the disc as much. I'm going to smooth the surface of the disc to help that, and maybe install a finger spring like hornady and others do to kick rejects back.

Any input?

Oh also, I found a gear motor on-property, the rotisserie motor off my BBQ! Says 6 rpm but seems to run closer to 4.5. The paint brush seems to improve operation. Can't seem to find a finger spring anywhere. Maybe a trip to hardware store after lunch.
 

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Looks like a winner! You confused me though, at first I thought it was not working properly but then realized you were using regular bullets and HP and HB.

He first collator I built used spring steel and plastic "wipers"

feeder4.jpg

The ones I build now I use a ball bearing at 11:00. Not sure why I don't have a photo of that part but you can see it at the beginning of this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eANEMBS_V_0
 
Hmmm, jmorris I'm assuming the wipers kick out the duds, what does the wire do after the winners get through? And ya, I'm using a blend of bullets for testing. I since threw in some hollow point plated, and some 200gr flat point powder coats that proved tricky. I figure if I can make a mixture of bullets feed then that's probably a good design. I had it working pretty well earlier using the paint brush as a "wiper" but since lost the reliability somehow. Lots of bullets seem to forget kicked out the top, onto the ground, or they get kicked up, out of their notch and slide back into the herd. I think my plate is too thin, I went with a 3/8 cutting board, and I think 1/2" would be more appropriate.

Also, I'm having a bit of challenge in getting the bullets to drop free into the feed tube without binding in the first bit.

Also, the lube groove on my PC bullets is hanging up on the flip ramp sometimes too. This is probably not Important as I can refrain from PC bullets, or at least lube grooved bullets, but a challenge nonetheless.
 
On my first one there were several kinds of "fails" that could occur, backwards, sideways, vertical... Each wipe would either fix one or make it fall back into the mix for another try.

If you look closely at the 3rd photo in post #9, you will see some radial marks on the flipper disk that line up with a mark in the clamp. That is for different bullet types, adjusts for different tip OD's.

The 2nd photo in #8 you can see there is a little lead in to the drop out hole, what you can't see is that it is a tapered hole, just don't make it so wide the bullet can get sideways.

Not sure about your lube grooved bullets catching, I also use mine to collate my cast bullets for sizing, like the video at the bottom of #11 and this one.

One thing that took me longer than it should have was to learn that these things don't need to collate 5000 bullets and hour if your only loading at a rate of 1200 rph. When I first built the one in the 3rd photo of #8, it would collate so fast it would drop 2-3 bullets into the tube after the switch cut if off because it was full. It would drop 1-2 bullets a 1000 though, I had thought it was due to bench flex but feeding it 3 volts instead of 12v, to slow it down made it 100% and it will still out collate my load rate.

You can see how slow it's running in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Cc1hUj343w

Gives then plenty of time to fall out and not so fast a "bounce" can mess things up.
 
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Looks like they are all base down, 1/100 fall out, I would just make a catch pan where they fall out at and funnel it into the box you fill the collator from. A lot less hassle than dealing with nose down bullets into the tube.
 
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