Ever heard of hot loads warping crane/ejector rod?

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Maybe the yoke is bent or the cylinder isn't attached to the yoke correctly anymore? Check the gap between the forcing cone and the cylinder for each throat. Also check for slop when the cylinder is engaged. Wiggle it side to side and front to back. Maybe there is a slight variance there? Your issue is odd, maybe this can give you some insight as to what is happening.
 
I did remove and reinstall the cylinder twice to make sure it was not the cylinder release itself malfunctioning. The issue occurs when the cylinder release engages the frame through the ejector rod. The timing and alignment appear correct and there does not appear to be excess b/c gap. No excess endshake/wiggle. The reason the cylinder jams, I believe, is that the cylinder release/ejector rod does not fully reset due to misalignment with the frame on certain chambers, thus "locking up" the gun as if the cylinder was open. If the cylinder release is left alone, the gun will cycle and fire perfectly, thus the issue appears to be some type of misalignment resulting in malfunction between the cylinder release and the frame via the ejector rod. As you note, possible a bent rod and/or crane. The only difference between yesterday and today is shooting the darn thing ;). Funny thing is it just got back from the factory for a firing pin replacement due to ftf. Could it be a lemon? I'm willing to give it the benefit of the doubt for now and see if we can't work it out.
 
I am confused by the term "cylinder release" as you are using it. The cylinder is released to swing out by pressing forward on the thumbpiece. That causes the part called the bolt to push the center pin forward and flush with the frame, allowing the cylinder to swing out. It does not "engage the frame through the ejector rod" so I am having a hard time understanding just what the problem is, or how the "cylinder release" can be misaligned with the frame on certain chambers.

Jim
 
Try working some oil into the locking bolt under the thumbpeice, and down the hole in the recoil shield.

Also oil both ends of the ejector rod and work it in.

You could also have a hunk of junk stuck under the thumbpeice grating around inside the frame slot.

rc
 
I am confused by the term "cylinder release" as you are using it. The cylinder is released to swing out by pressing forward on the thumbpiece. That causes the part called the bolt to push the center pin forward and flush with the frame, allowing the cylinder to swing out. It does not "engage the frame through the ejector rod" so I am having a hard time understanding just what the problem is, or how the "cylinder release" can be misaligned with the frame on certain chambers.
Click to expand...

Hi Jim, thanks for clearing up the technical terms and sorry for any confusion. When I refer to the "cylinder release" I am indeed referring to the thumbpiece. When the thumb-piece is manually operated, the ejector rod moves forward and depresses a pin on the frame that allows the cylinder to release from the frame, at least that's how it appeared to me, and I appreciate you taking the time to correct me on that.

You could also have a hunk of junk stuck under the thumbpeice grating around inside the frame slot.
Click to expand...

I can manually operate the thumbswitch without incidence when the cylinder is removed. What is happening is that the part of the ejector rod that interacts with a pin to release the cylinder from the frame near the barrel does not interact smoothly on a few of the chambers. When the ejector rod, or whatever piece near the ejector rod , is in contact with the pin when the thumbpiece is crunchy, does not reset appropriately, mimicking an open cylinder and thus locking the firearm.

The crunchiness is not originating with the thumbpiece, but as a result of the unlocking process that the thumbpiece is part of.

If the thumbpiece is left alone once the cylinder is locked, the firearm will function flawlessly. it is only when the thumbpiece is not allowed to reset fully as a result of an imperfect unlocking/locking process that the issue can occur.
 
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When the thumb-piece is manually operated, the ejector rod moves forward and depresses a pin on the frame that allows the cylinder to release from the frame, at least that's how it appeared to me
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I'm now even more confused.

The thumb piece releases the cylinder by pressing the rear of the ejector rod (forward) out of the hole in the recoil shield.

Where is this pin on the frame that you are referring to?

Are you referring to spring loaded pin, located under the barrel, that locates the front of the ejection rod?
 
Are you referring to spring loaded pin, located under the barrel, that locates the front of the ejection rod?
Click to expand...

I believe so.

p21.gif

There is a spring loaded pin located directly in front of the forward face of the ejector rod, under the barrel and in the recess that the rod fits into. When the cylinder locks, this pin locks into the ejector rod. When the thumbpiece is engaged, it pushs on a pin on the ejector rod, which in turn extends the front face of the ejector rod and pushes the spring loaded pin under the barrel in, allowing the ejector rod to escape from the recess under the barrel. The ejector rod does not appear to be in perfect alignment with this spring loaded pin on certain cylinders, causing a "crunchy" release and an imperfect mating of the rod to the pin on certain cylinders that can bind the cylinder by not allowing the thumbpiece to lock back into place when the cylinder is on the gun.
 
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Peening of the Extractor Hole-Pinching the Center Pin.

Peening of #53 extractor, made the hole smaller where # 72 center pin goes. Open hole with a drill bit of the correct size. 2021SWModel29Rev_Parts.jpg
 
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That clears it up some.

This pin isn't on the frame, it is mounted under/to/in the barrel shroud.

This pin doesn't allow(s) the cylinder to release from the frame. All it does is stabilize the front of the ejector rod. The cylinder is retained in the frame by the rear of the ejector rod going into the frame. The front locating pin really isn't needed at all...see Colt and Dan Wesson revolvers.

It sounds like you've either bent your ejection rod or it is coming unscrewed
 
I have also seen more then one front locking bolt (under the barrel) that was imporperly tapered & polished so it wil slip out past the ejector rod housing when the thumb release is pushed foreward all the way.
It should have a slightly wedged shape on the end, and it should be polished smooth.

I have also seem them just a frog hair too long, with not enough clearance in the front of the barrel lug, and the cylinder center pin can't push them out of the ejector rod housing far enough to clear the end.

You could also have a bent crane, or bent ejector rod housing.

Neither of which would be caused by hot loads.

rc
 
Take the unloaded revolver and pull the trigger backward just enough to drop the cylinder stop down far enough so that you can turn the cylinder. It should revolve freely with no binding. If the yoke barrel (the tube part the cylinder turns on) is slightly bent it may tip the ejector rod enough to cause it to bind at the front. This would be unusual, but I have seen it happen after someone fired "very heavy" loads in a relatively light gun and then pounded on the ejector rod to get the fired brass ejected.
 
Thanks fuff. The cylinder functions flawlessly unless I start operating the thumb piece. If the cylinder is locked in place on certain chambers, theres a chance it will lock up at first, but if I set it in on a different chamber it will function fine. It simply does not lock in perfectly on certain chambers. Not sure if theres a DIY way to fix this one. Any tips?
 
If you feel qualified to do so, remove the side plate, mainspring, hammer and bolt (with thumb piece, spring and plunger). Clean off the bolt, and it's recess in the frame. Be sure the spring isn't kinked. Then lubricate & replace. See if this makes any difference.

Swing out the cylinder and use a 1/8" flat-nose pin punch (or anything similar) to press on the back end of the center rod (going into the ratchet hub) and see if it sticks or binds. Repeat as you turn the cylinder.
 
Ahhh.... seeing as last time I launched the sear spring and fandangled the hand torsion spring, I'm not sure I should be messing about in there. Might be time for another factory polish :D

LOL. This 640 just needs some TLC I guess.
 
Well if you send it to S&W they have the fixtures and gages to check the frame for warping or stretching if you still believe that's a concern.

Also I haven’t yet touched on a possible issue between the hand and certain ratchet teeth. When you can’t find the obvious you have to look for the obscure. :uhoh:
 
Salmoneye, the first thing I did when I got it home was clean oveer and under the extractor star with clp and a toothbrush. Its shiny.
 
Got her back from S&W today. Impressive turn around, and they covered shipping both ways.

The paper in the box listed the following:

CHARACTERISTIC DESCRIPTION

CUSTOMER COMPLAINT: OPEN & CLOSE CYL

CUSTOMER COMPLAINT: LONG RATCHETS

REPAIRED: REPAIR FRAME

REPAIRED: REPLACE HAND
Click to expand...

Works as intended now, with a much improved trigger pull. Got to range test it again in a week when some new ammo comes in, but as always I am very satisfied with the service provided by S&W, although I still have no idea what the cause of the problem was :)
 
Interesting. REPAIR FRAME. I would have checked the cylinder end shake (gas ring) and then the center (cylinder) pin and yoke first, then the ejector rod. What part of the frame was repaired?
 
Glad you got it back fixed, I was starting to sweat since I just bought one like yours. At least now I know if mine breaks I just need to:

REPAIR FRAME

REPLACE HAND

;)
 
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