Extractor Nicks and Cuts in Case Rims

[GunAdmirer]

I reload 9mm and .45 acp. The cases hold up well to reloading but the case rims get nicks and burrs in them from the extractor.

I run each reloaded round through a case guage. The rim is the only part that doesn't fit easily on occasion. It feeds through the pistol just fine, though. I guess slamming it into the chamber overcomes the burr.

I find myself using a case only 3 or 4 times not because of the case itself but concern over potential feeding problems from the burrs on the rim. Do you remove the burrs and raised cuts off of your rims? If so, how?

I am shooting a Glock, Beretta and SA GI .45.

 

[antarti]

I'm with ya...

I have purchased case gages also, but for rifle cartridges.

You will find the top of the gage to be under the max rim size, if you hit it with calipers. I was rejecting about 15% of my 223 brass due to this, without it actually being "bad". So I had the same issue, where the brass would stand proud of the gage if the brass on the rim was nicked.

The easiest way to see this problem is to try and insert the brass in the gage backwards. The ones where the rim goes past the edge effortlessly will work with the gage "as is", the other brass that won't go in at all backwards, will stand proud no matter what the other dimensions.

I sent an email to Frankfort Arsenal, and received a quick reply that it would be fine to open up the very top of the gage to max rim diameter, without spoiling the usage of the gage.

The rim is a ways away from the rear of the case that contact the gage wall, so there is plenty of room to open up about the top 1/16th or 1/8th for the rim. I do wish they had done so at the factory, and let them know I thought the utility of the gage was very limited as shipped. Whomever manufactured yours, you might want to let them know the same.

 

[GunAdmirer]

Thanks for the information.

Mine also is a Frankford Arsenal. If the case rim has small raised burrs from nicks does it put it out of spec? Do these small burrs ever cause a real problem?

Most of my cases do not have enough of a burr to where they won't fit in the case gage. Some do but haven't caused me a problem in real shooting.

Can the burrs to filed or sanded off? Anyone found a fast and easy way to do it?

 

[antarti]

If the case rim has small raised burrs from nicks does it put it out of spec? Do these small burrs ever cause a real problem?

I have yet (in .223) to measure one that was truly out-of-spec, even though there are plenty of grooves and marks. It really takes a lot of damage to get to MAX allowed rim diameter.

In an auto pistol, it's probably a non-issue since there is no bolt recess, just a breechface and an extractor. My 1911 (ok, so it isn't technically a "1911" for the following reason) has an external extractor, and is rough on rims, but brass reloaded multiple times feeds/functions fine.

Most of my cases do not have enough of a burr to where they won't fit in the case gage. Some do but haven't caused me a problem in real shooting.

I didn't buy the .45 case gage because I decided to just remove the barrel from my 45 and drop the rounds into the chamber to check them. My .45s chamber is tighter than SAAMI max. I suspect you could do the same. Either way, you shouldn't have any problems with shooting them.

Do you remove the burrs and raised cuts off of your rims? If so, how?

Tried that, wasn't worth the effort. Also, once I got some burrs off I wondered if the extractor might lose its purchase on that part of the rim if I got over-zealous in filing. I decided to just open up the gage to max rim width instead. Measure twice, drill once.

 

[Grump]

Cram the caseheads backwards into the case gage. Smashes all inconsequential burrs right down, and IDs expanded caseheads that should not be reloaded (they don't go in that easily). Had some Federal .308 that was kinda soft, and some were too big after the first firing with the factory loads.

 

[mbartel]

Unfortunately, most auto loading pistols beat up the brass more than revolvers do. Because the cases headspace on the mouth and don't use a roll crimp, the case mouths do not usually crack from multiple loadings. They will most likely wear out from the wear and tear of cycling through the action and loose primer pockets. Some auto pistols are easier on brass than others. I once had a Ballester Molena (Argentine copy of 1911) that really chewed the brass up. After about 3 reloads, the brass was done. I currently have a Para-Ordnance P-14 with about 6000 rounds through it, and you can't tell whether the ammo was fired in an auto or a revolver. I don't worry about the nicks and scuffs on the cases....The slamming of the slide, during chambering, will normally take care of the little dings on the rim and extractor groove. Trying to restore the cases to a smooth finish, is not really worth the effort, when high quality brass is so inexpensive.

 

[The Bushmaster]

How about a small jewelers file. Works for me...