Fair price for 25-2

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AlonzoMosely

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I'm looking for S&W revolver in either .45 or 10mm/.40. Just checked out a gun store that had a couple of 25-2 models on consignment. One was labelled 1955 and the other did not say what the year of manufature was. They were both priced at $649. Is this awfully high for a used S&W revolver? Would I be better off looking for a new 625 at that price? Or is it worth it if they are in good shape? Thanks for any help.
 
I think that's an ok price. It might be a little high in some locales, but I'd pay it, if it were me. For what it's worth, there's a dealer here on the left coast asking $1100 for the gun you describe.

I don't worry about price, anymore. As long as it's within $100 plus or minus of comparable guns, I just buy it. The satisfaction we derive from fondling such pieces, to me, is worth it.
 
Just to let you know... 1955 is not the year of manufacture, it is the model year, the year first introduced back before S&W assigned model numbers and all their guns had real names. 1955 Target .45
A 25-2 would have been made some time after 1961.
 
Thanks for the info. I bought one today. I love the blueing - first blued gun I've owned - all the others are stainless or parkerized. Ordered some moon clips from brownells and can't wait to give it a try this weekend.
 
That would be a fair price for a 1955 Target in very good condition in my area.

The lighter barreled 1950 Target model often goes for slightly more since there were fewer made.

Be aware that there are many Model 28s that have had their chambers reamed and rebarreled with 1955 barrels. It was a popular conversion in the 1960s and early 1970s.
 
Thanks. This one has the model 25-2 stamped in the usual area when you open the cylinder.

I don't really know how to evaluate a revolver's condition. There were two, and I took the one that had the tighter lock-up (as described in the sticky post). The timing seems perfect, but there is a bit of endshake. I don't have feeler gauges and don't know how to judge if it's enough that something needs to be done about it.

If I decide to remove the cylinder and add an endshake bearing, anyone know how I can find out if it unscrews clockwise or counterclockwise??
 
I'd hold off on the endshake bushing until you do some shooting. I've got a number of 25's and using factory ammo, you'd have to shoot a ton to hammer the yoke. If your's is in nice condition, the endshake is probably from the factory and within acceptable limits. I've only had to shim one Smith, a first year Highway Patrolman that had been fed 40 years worth of .357 rounds.
 
Tijeras_Slim, once I so some shooting, how do I know if I need to add an endshake bushing or not??
 
I would be shocked if there is a serious problem with your 25-2. (These were made 1962-81 BTW). These are fairly sturdy guns and the standard 45 ACP cartridge isn't going to strain them a bit. Maybe if someone fed it a whole lot of monster handloads, but that would be unlikely. A revolver has to have some clearances to work so all of them will "shake" a bit.

The 25 is a deluxe target gun and you should love yours. I bought a new one in 1976 but I was into Magnums and the 45 ACP seemed like a wimp in this big gun so I sold it. Stupid. Two months ago I found this one offered for $375 because it had some holster wear on the muzzle (unusual on a gun like this but I think it was used in competition shooting because of the Millett rear sight) and had a horrible "drag line" on the cylinder. I guess they weren't so careful in fitting the bolt stops in 1980. Anyway, at that price I bagged it. It shoots perfectly centered, palm-sized groups using mil-spec ball ammo at 25 yards. I feel better for finally having corrected that mistake made 30 years ago.

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