ambidextrous1
Member
Enjoy your PA 63, GLOOB! I suspect that you'll have it for a long, long time.
FEG PA-63: sharing the joy - see pics!
- Thread starter GLOOB
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exdetsgt
Member
I bought a PA 63 recently. Didn't like the kick and most definitely wasn't fond of the trigger. Ordered a spring kit from Wolff. Installed the 15# recoil spring and the 11# hammer spring. What a difference! Recoil is reduced and the trigger is just plain sweet. And, of course, accuracy at 15 yards was improved. I've run about 200 rounds of cheap Russian Wolf ammo through it and the little pistol runs like a clock.
This is a real bargain in a self-defense pistol. It's light, fits into any Walther PPK holster, and conceals well.
Bottom line: I'm pleasantly surprised.
This is a real bargain in a self-defense pistol. It's light, fits into any Walther PPK holster, and conceals well.
Bottom line: I'm pleasantly surprised.
Think I spent a hundred bucks for mine in .380, left it stock except for painting the front sight orange.
Old FEG PA-63 owner
New member, the PA-63 has been my favorite CCW for a few years now. Bought it 99.9% new. Pump about 100 rnd's a month, never had a failure! Great gun and well made. I to had to do the spring changes and that made a world of difference to me. Hated the bakelite grips w/thumb rest from day one. I have been making my own grips and sold a few locally. My grips really dress the '63 up, smaller print, smooth and much more ergonomic, better holster fit.
Sights (and my vision at my age) are useless, but for possible close CCW encounters, I am dead on....
Wife's CCW (small hands)
New member, the PA-63 has been my favorite CCW for a few years now. Bought it 99.9% new. Pump about 100 rnd's a month, never had a failure! Great gun and well made. I to had to do the spring changes and that made a world of difference to me. Hated the bakelite grips w/thumb rest from day one. I have been making my own grips and sold a few locally. My grips really dress the '63 up, smaller print, smooth and much more ergonomic, better holster fit.
Sights (and my vision at my age) are useless, but for possible close CCW encounters, I am dead on....
Wife's CCW (small hands)
Old FEG PA-63 owner
New member, the PA-63 has been my favorite CCW for a few years now. Bought it 99.9% new. Pump about 100 rnd's a month, never had a failure! Great gun and well made. I to had to do the spring changes and that made a world of difference to me. Hated the bakelite grips w/thumb rest from day one. I have been making my own grips and sold a few locally. My grips really dress the '63 up, smaller print, smooth and much more ergonomic, better holster fit.
Sights (and my vision at my age) are useless, but for possible close CCW encounters, I am dead on....
Wife's CCW (small hands)
New member, the PA-63 has been my favorite CCW for a few years now. Bought it 99.9% new. Pump about 100 rnd's a month, never had a failure! Great gun and well made. I to had to do the spring changes and that made a world of difference to me. Hated the bakelite grips w/thumb rest from day one. I have been making my own grips and sold a few locally. My grips really dress the '63 up, smaller print, smooth and much more ergonomic, better holster fit.
Sights (and my vision at my age) are useless, but for possible close CCW encounters, I am dead on....
Wife's CCW (small hands)
Sorry, but the US-theme inlets on the grip of a PA-63 is totally out of style for me.
These grips are more Hungarian:
The most desirable (collector) version is the factory-hardchromed one with white grips. This was given for some high-ranked officers anno.
These grips are more Hungarian:
The most desirable (collector) version is the factory-hardchromed one with white grips. This was given for some high-ranked officers anno.
Nate1778
Member
Man I got an FEG APK in .380, which is primarily the same gun. All the sudden it started stove piping on me and failure to eject constantly. Bought a new ejector for it and it has not improved. Anybody got any suggestions. Thing fired perfect for 5 years and all the sudden this. Does not matter what type of ammo either.
Nate1778
Member
It does seam that when the case tries to eject it catches the next incoming round. Both mags I have do the same thing. What could go wrong in a mag? Man finding an ejector was costly enough, wander what a mag would cost simply to see if it was the problem.
PA-63 loaded mags are known of weakened springs and deformated lips on long term. Could cause both FTF and FTE.
This is why Hungarian police carried only 5 rounds in the mags (2x5 total...what a firepower....))
The magazines are cca. 10-15 dollars here, but it not helps you at all.
This is why Hungarian police carried only 5 rounds in the mags (2x5 total...what a firepower....
))The magazines are cca. 10-15 dollars here, but it not helps you at all.
exdetsgt
Member
After 5 years the recoil spring could be worn out.
exdetsgt
Member
Someone told me (at a local gun shop) that you could carry a PA-63 safely with the red dot showing as there is some sort of blocking mechanism that will prevent accidental discharge should the hammer be struck (as in dropping the gun). Anyone know if this is indeed the case?
Mine didn't come with a manual, otherwise I wouldn't be asking this question.
This pistol continues to operate flawlessly with the spring kit. Another 100 rounds since my last post.
Also, are there any better made mags available?
Mine didn't come with a manual, otherwise I wouldn't be asking this question.
This pistol continues to operate flawlessly with the spring kit. Another 100 rounds since my last post.
Also, are there any better made mags available?
I got a bunch of mags for mine for 7.00 each. They all seem to work fine.
It has a firing pin safety. If you disassembled the gun you'd see that the entire firing pin rotates downward at the rear end. It's pushed down by the firing pin safety plunger/spring. In this position, it is blocked from moving forward. Pulling the trigger pushes the rear of the firing pin up where it lines up with a slot. So unless the trigger is pulled back all the way, there should be no way for it to fire. The manual safety is a hammer block type combined with decocker. To test that the firing pin safety is working, you can try launching some pencils by fanning the hammer, with and without the trigger pulled.
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I wonder if you're mistaking another eastern bloc gun for potentially AD'ing when decocked. Like maybe the Tokarev?
The FEG PA-63's hammer block safety is engaged as the safety/decock lever is dropped, and it is positively engages well before the decocking mechanism drops the hammer. The hammer block is part of a solid cylinder of steel that fits into a deep recess on the inside of the slide. I can't imagine it breaking before hell freezes over.
*Edit: hang on. I actually found this post on another forum. Hmm... his trigger-activated firing pin safety didn't work either? ***.
I can tell on mine: The steel is hard enough to throw bright sparks when ground.
Side track: I wish mine would fire every time I PULLED THE TRIGGER. But I think I figured out that problem. There was a pretty serious burr on the firing pin. I guess I'll find out if my sanding/polishing job makes any difference next time I get to the range.
The FEG PA-63's hammer block safety is engaged as the safety/decock lever is dropped, and it is positively engages well before the decocking mechanism drops the hammer. The hammer block is part of a solid cylinder of steel that fits into a deep recess on the inside of the slide. I can't imagine it breaking before hell freezes over.
*Edit: hang on. I actually found this post on another forum. Hmm... his trigger-activated firing pin safety didn't work either? ***.
I can tell on mine: The steel is hard enough to throw bright sparks when ground.
Side track: I wish mine would fire every time I PULLED THE TRIGGER. But I think I figured out that problem. There was a pretty serious burr on the firing pin. I guess I'll find out if my sanding/polishing job makes any difference next time I get to the range.
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"I wonder if you're mistaking another eastern bloc gun for potentially AD'ing when decocked. Like maybe the Tokarev?
"
Sorry, but I'm from Hungary, and I am fairly sure, this country is the largest user of this pistol. We have enough experience since 46 years (1963).
The problem is, that the lifting-up/down firing pin and its pushing piece on the frame, and the decocker lever have to to work TOGETHER in PERFECT TIMING.
IF the factory made some mistake, and/or the police/military armorer later change some parts, that perfect timing became not so perfect. The result is accidental discharge in case of decocking and/or non-firing in DA os SA mode.
I think this solution for firing pin safety is overcomplicated.
"
Sorry, but I'm from Hungary, and I am fairly sure, this country is the largest user of this pistol. We have enough experience since 46 years (1963).
The problem is, that the lifting-up/down firing pin and its pushing piece on the frame, and the decocker lever have to to work TOGETHER in PERFECT TIMING.
IF the factory made some mistake, and/or the police/military armorer later change some parts, that perfect timing became not so perfect. The result is accidental discharge in case of decocking and/or non-firing in DA os SA mode.
I think this solution for firing pin safety is overcomplicated.
This is odd. The firing pin safety should not have to disengage for the hammer to be decocked. And yet, I do clearly see that the back of the firing pin DOES move upwards as the decock lever is dropped. But only after the anvil is has moved to block the hammer. Still, I wonder that it moves, at all!?
And I have just found something even more disturbing. If the hammer is pulled back farther than the sear engage notch, the firing pin is temporarily lifted into firing position.
Yeah, I can totally agree with this:
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exdetsgt
Member
Just ran another 150 rounds through my PA-63 today. Works just fine, no FTE or FTF. I think it likes to run a bit wet. I've got nearly 500 trouble-free rounds through it and feel comfortable with its demonstrated dependability to start carrying it. It will alternate for daily carry with my Kimber UCII and my S&W Chiefs Special.
And, being used to drawing a Kimber and thumbing the safety DOWN, I have to remember to shove the decocker lever UP on the PA-63. Having to think about this could get me killed, so I decided to just carry it in the ready-to-fire mode (but not cocked). The holster I had made for it completely covers the trigger and grips the gun tightly. This puts it in the Glock and revolver camp - you just draw and pull the trigger, a distinct advantage when one second can make a significant difference.
If I'm doing something really stupid carrying it this way, please let me know.
And, being used to drawing a Kimber and thumbing the safety DOWN, I have to remember to shove the decocker lever UP on the PA-63. Having to think about this could get me killed, so I decided to just carry it in the ready-to-fire mode (but not cocked). The holster I had made for it completely covers the trigger and grips the gun tightly. This puts it in the Glock and revolver camp - you just draw and pull the trigger, a distinct advantage when one second can make a significant difference.
If I'm doing something really stupid carrying it this way, please let me know.
GLOOB Wrote:
Do you have any pics of this? My decocker is so stiff it is nearly a two-handed operation!
Also, does anyone have instructions on the complete disassembly of the PA63/PMK? I want to do some clean up, reshaping and then maybe polish the frame. First I need to get everything out to accomplish that.
Do you have any pics of this? My decocker is so stiff it is nearly a two-handed operation!
Also, does anyone have instructions on the complete disassembly of the PA63/PMK? I want to do some clean up, reshaping and then maybe polish the frame. First I need to get everything out to accomplish that.
Umm, I forget where I found it. But there's a guide posted online, somewhere, for takedown. Basically, the entire slide disassembly hinges around pulling out the safety lever/cylinder.
While holding the firing pin pressed in with a screwdriver, you can pull the entire safety cylinder out, through the left side of the slide.
As this happens, take care. The safety detent pin thingy (looks sorta like a BB) will come out and is easy to lose. (And it's one of the the only parts that I don't see listed at the milsurp online store; perhaps because it's so commonly lost?) It's under spring pressure, sharing the same spring as the extractor. And once it comes out, the extractor is no longer under tension, so it can fall out, too. So go ahead and take out the extractor, and put it away. There's also a small piece that goes behind the extractor that should come out with the spring, called the extractor plunger.
So once the safety lever is out, you'll see two detents in the cylinder, which correspond to "safe" and "fire."
I used a Dremel to "accelerate the break-in" on these detents.
While holding the firing pin pressed in with a screwdriver, you can pull the entire safety cylinder out, through the left side of the slide.
As this happens, take care. The safety detent pin thingy (looks sorta like a BB) will come out and is easy to lose. (And it's one of the the only parts that I don't see listed at the milsurp online store; perhaps because it's so commonly lost?) It's under spring pressure, sharing the same spring as the extractor. And once it comes out, the extractor is no longer under tension, so it can fall out, too. So go ahead and take out the extractor, and put it away. There's also a small piece that goes behind the extractor that should come out with the spring, called the extractor plunger.
So once the safety lever is out, you'll see two detents in the cylinder, which correspond to "safe" and "fire."
I used a Dremel to "accelerate the break-in" on these detents.
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GLOOB
Did you deepen the holes, widen them, cut some wear line?
I think you need to take it apart and check it for wear. While it's apart you can snap some pics and post them for us.
I have search for hours everyday for about a week now for a disassembly guide. I give up. :banghead: I'm going to get the AGI PPk/PA63 video and be done with it.
Did you deepen the holes, widen them, cut some wear line?
I think you need to take it apart and check it for wear. While it's apart you can snap some pics and post them for us.
I have search for hours everyday for about a week now for a disassembly guide. I give up. :banghead: I'm going to get the AGI PPk/PA63 video and be done with it.
Don't buy a video! There's only 1 or 2 tricky bits and they're not really that tricky. If you are still stuck, I'll post a darn video. For real. Just hold out till my new trigger spring gets here, which should be in a few days, and I'll do a vid of the complete takedown and reassembly. I'll get some pics of the safety while I'm in there, too.
The grons
Member
I love the gun and practise point and shoot with it; it is my CCW so the recoil issue doesn't bother me. The 11lb hammer spring works fine, bought the gun brand new for $189 and the recoil spring from the factory feels about the same as the 13lb so I put it back on. The 13lb spring messed up on one shot and a shell got caught in the ejector so I put the factory spring back on. I am getting Marschel grips to get rid of the thumb rest for better concealment. It seems as thought my slider is blued instead of painted. I don't think you can blue alloy so I will keep the two tone.
Taking apart the slide
Well, here's a vid of how it's done.
http://s688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/?action=view¤t=PA-63SlideDisassemblyv2.flv
Reassemby text instructions
1. Insert firing pin.
2. Push the safety partially in
3. Depress firing pin, and insert safety just far enough to hold firing pin captive
4. Drop the BB into it's hole; it should just have enough room to slide by the safety and roll into it's hole. Don't worry; it's too big to fall all the way through the ejector hole!
5. Push safety all the way in.
6. Put the ejector spring/plunger back in, through the ejector side of the hole
7. Turn the ejector plunger roundside out, flatside in.
8. Push the ejector back in.
9. Make sure the plunger pops over the end of the ejector.
2 detents on safety. The "BB" presses against these slots to hold it in place.
http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/feg001.jpg
I softened one edge of each slot - the edge facing the other slot, for the obvious reason.
http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/feg005.jpg
Well, here's a vid of how it's done.
http://s688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/?action=view¤t=PA-63SlideDisassemblyv2.flv
Reassemby text instructions
1. Insert firing pin.
2. Push the safety partially in
3. Depress firing pin, and insert safety just far enough to hold firing pin captive
4. Drop the BB into it's hole; it should just have enough room to slide by the safety and roll into it's hole. Don't worry; it's too big to fall all the way through the ejector hole!
5. Push safety all the way in.
6. Put the ejector spring/plunger back in, through the ejector side of the hole
7. Turn the ejector plunger roundside out, flatside in.
8. Push the ejector back in.
9. Make sure the plunger pops over the end of the ejector.
2 detents on safety. The "BB" presses against these slots to hold it in place.
http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/feg001.jpg
I softened one edge of each slot - the edge facing the other slot, for the obvious reason.
http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/feg005.jpg
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