FF in a blackpowder pistol?

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I have several tins of GOEX FF and a few Pyrodex FF bottles. I am thinking about purchasing a 50 cal flintlock pistol. Will these items work? Will it be safe?

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PS - I use those items in my black powder rifle just fine
 
I'd have thought that if measured vol for vol ... then FF would just represent a charge with smaller surface area for the burn ... thence be a tad slower and lower pressure peak. I'd expect that to perform adequately.
 
It most certainly will work, as that's exactly what I used immediately after purchasing my steel frame 1858 Remington from Cabela's.
I was told by several others that the velocities would not be quite as high as fffg since the powder charge was being measured by volume as opposed to weight.

I found 35 grains of ffg under .454 Hornady round ball offered some sweet results with plenty of power.

If ffg worked for my .44cal cap-n-ball, it'll work just fine out of a .50 caliber flintlock.
 
I've tried Pyrodex in a .50 cal pistol once. Lyman Plains Pistol, it took about 8 magnum # 11 caps, removing the nipple, and sprinkling some black powder down nipple hole before it fired. I will not try that again. Read somewhere that these things were made for black powder and use of substitute powders was not recommended.
 
bp selection

Pyrodex, in any granulation is not recommended by most makers of flintlocks, pyrodex has a higher ignition point, making it difficult to ignite in a flintlock. I've had great results with "p" pryodex in all of my cap and ball revolvers. I suppose it's due to those being an "inline" configuration. My two cents . Happy hunting.
mothernatureson
 
I use Pyrodex "P" in all of my C&B revolvers. No ignition problems using standard caps so far.

I use the 30 gr. pellets with a "Wonder Wad", swaged ball, and cigarette papers to make combustable cartridges for the .44s, too. There is no place within 50 miles of my home where I can buy genuine black gunpowder, but I can get Pyrodex at the local Wally World.

FWIW, I've resorted to Pyrodex "R" in revolvers when I ran out of "P" with no problems.

Don't see how one could get into much trouble using a volumetric measure just changing granulations, unless 4F priming powder was used. The weight/volume ratio shouldn't change that much between 2F and 3F.
 
The Goex FFg should work just fine.

According to Lyman's Black Powder Handbook (They did some performance evaluations comparing 2Fg vs 3Fg in .54 Cal Rifles) the FFg should produce lower velocity and pressure than an equal charge of FFFg. This makes sense as the finer granulation of the FFFg presents more surface area and would be expected to burn faster than the FFg.

Don't know about the pyrodex. I haven't used it much but it's said to be harder to ignite. I think I would be inclined to save the Pyrodex for my rifle and not mess with it in a flintlock pistol. :)
 
If you use the "real" black powder in your flinty, you are OK. I can't locate it right now, but somewhere I have an e-mail from Hodgdon's (Pyrodex maker) that plainly states NOT to use "Replica Powders " (Pyrodex, 777, etc) in flintys. With the higher flame point of Pyrodex, et al, ignition of the main charge is unpredictable.
 
The quality of today's powder is superior to that used by our Founding Fathers, Napoleon's troops and probably both armies of the Civil War. Today's 2F would probably be 3F by their standards.
 
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