Pancho, That finish appears sort of rough, on my computer it does anyway. Parkerized guns are more like blued guns in the finish has no practible build up which is measurable. Blueing, Parker, and anodizing, are all different chem processes.
Paint, powder coat, and chroming are all build processes. It is the build I am having problems with, on a wheel gun. All of these will be a measuable thickness.
Say you used this epoxie paint and bake it on. I assume the baking heats and cures the paint to a tuff finish, be it bright and glossy, or flat, but still it comes out even.
So you paint the clyinder and bake it. Since this is a build in thickness which just about has to be so thick as a note book paper folded once, which is usually apx 0.003" and you have painted in theory the sides 'round, now that cylinder is 0.006 larger in diameter than it was. The diameter grew by times 2 in the thickness.
IF you get this on the drive cam, and the cylinder hand then each of these could be 0.003 larger, which combines to 0.006" and so the cylinder will turn that much more.
If this gets on the face of the forcing cone, and the face of the cylinder, you will have closed cyl to bore gap by 0.006" too.
There can be no predicting what that will show, as as cyl to bore gap varries as a constant, even with 2 guns built off the same machinery in consecutive order. A tight bore gap is considered 0.002" A wide gap is 0.020.
What most companies strive for is 0.006" to 0.012". SO it gets really dicey what happens when you build here.
I am not going to get into every other possible build on a fire arm. The varriables are to much to deal with on a board like this.
A long gun such as a shotgun, an or some rifle can deal with some build better than a wheel gun, because most of the moving parts are concealed with in dust covers, and other assorted parts which protect moving parts.
I the case of a single shot, shot gun a cotton ball in the bore and a Q-Tip in the trigger plate jole would just about do it, plus de-greasing, but on a wheel gun?
.
