First 250 rounds: Springfield Armory 1911DS Prodigy, 4.25"

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I crossposted my review from 1911Addicts, @WVsig

SA-Prodigy-L.jpg

Had the opportunity to go shoot my new SA 1911DS Prodigy, the 4.25" variant, and wanted to add a little more data to the community knowledge base about this gun.

By way of background - I am neither a 1911 armorer nor a competition shooter, much less a top competitive shooter. I was in the Army, but not in the AMU. I have completed some formal law enforcement handgun training, but I don't jet off to Gunsite, Thunder Ranch, or the Sig Academy every weekend with fifty pounds of ammo in checked luggage. I've been carrying for about fifteen years and consider myself an average shot among the crowd of people who take shooting seriously but can't afford to shoot thousands of rounds a year (i.e. not the average CCW permit holder. Think... the 75th percentile?). I am not a gunsmith or an expert in anything.

I was getting jittery from worry about all the blooming threads around the gun boards reporting failures to feed, and I was hoping against hope to have gotten one that would run right out of the box.

I got one that runs... about 90% out of the box. Which is disappointing, but also I'm on the cusp of almost not being disappointed because I had exactly one type of malfunction, and it looked pretty much the same every time. This is really disappointing in a $1,500 gun. Frankly, I know 1911s and 2011s can be touchy, but I don't think it's unreasonable to expect a $1,500 gun to work reliably out of the box these days. It is only not totally disappointing because the malfunction is so consistent that I think it's a fairly simple diagnosis and fix.

Now, that being said...

Prodigy-Target.jpg

THE GOOD.

1. This is how it shoots at 25 yards. So when it shoots, I thought it shot very nicely. Certainly it shoots in my hands at 25 yards better than any other handgun I've ever shot (OK, sure, some of you guys have more duplicate 1911s alone than different handguns I've ever shot, but whatever, you get the idea). The group you see was rapid fire and honestly that's as small a group as I've ever shot at 25 yards with a centerfire handgun, rapid or slow fire.

2. It's a very pleasant and comfortable shooter. Recoil is mild for reasons that are probably obvious, and you can shoot it all day without discomfort. Despite the girth of the grip, I find it much less blocky feeling than a Glock. It fills my medium-sized hands nicely. I like the little 'ledge' on the front strap, my pinky finger on my support hand just falls there naturally for a fantastic and natural grip. The grip texture is fantastic.

3. I like the sight picture. The U-notch, site serrations, bright green fiber optic insert, and the narrow front sight blade contribute to good accuracy with iron sights. Sights were well regulated and point of aim = point of impact as advertised with a 25-yard zero.

4. Personally, I think it's a good-looking gun.

THE BAD.

1. It's heavy. No getting around it.

2. The optic plates available are nice but they make six different plate options:

A. A19B: Holosun 509

B. A18B: Aimpoint ACRO

C. A15B: Leupold DeltaPoint PRO / EoTech EFLX

D. A14B: Trijicon RMR and SRO / Holosun 407C

E. A13B: Hex Dragonfly

F. A12B: Hex Wasp / Holosun 507K and 507K X2 / Shield RMsc and RMS2

And I bet you can guess which plate is included - that's right, the one for the Hex Dragonfly, which is neither the best nor the most common of the pistol MRDS optics available, and irritatingly it's also one of the plates that literally only fits one sight, as opposed to the A14B and A12B plates, which each fit multiple MRDS optics that are all better and more common than the Dragonfly.

THE UGLY.

Shoots great when it shoots. However, it only shoots about 90% of the time. I fired 250 rounds today, which were the first rounds I fired out of the gun (The gun was quite dirty when I bought it, which inclines me to think that it got shot some at Springfield Armory before it left, and more than a round or two). The 250 rounds were 150 rounds of Norma 115-gr. FMJ, 50 rounds of Speer Lawman 147-gr. FMJ, and 50 rounds of Federal HST 147-gr. JHP. Of those:

6.67% failure to feed (10 of 150) of the Norma 115-gr., with failures to feed occurring solely when the action was cycling under fire and never when being loaded manually (slingshotted from slide lock to load from magazines at full capacity).

22% failure to feed (11 of 50) of the Speer Lawman 147-gr. FMJ, again, with failures to feed solely when the gun was cycling under fire.

4% failure to feed (4 of 50) of the Federal HST 147-gr. JHP. Same pattern as all the other ammo.

I fired the Norma 115-gr. first and experienced the first failure to feed at round 38, and then again at round 42, using the 17-round magazine. I then had another failure to feed at 45 shots in the 20-round magazine, then at 48, 49, 58, 62, 64, 66, and 68 rounds. Neither magazine was more likely to malfunction. With the 147-gr. Speer FMJ, failures to feed occurred at round 2, 4, 6, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 30, 32, and 34. With the Federal 147-gr. HST, failures to feed occurred at round 2 and 4.

The failures to feed had a lot of commonalities:

1. They were slightly more likely to occur when under higher magazine spring pressure. I fired all magazines from fully loaded (except for a few where I didn't have enough of one ammo type to fill the magazine), and the round overwhelmingly most likely to fail to feed was the second round fired, and often in particularly bad strings, it was always even rounds failing to feed, which is to say, every automatically loaded round since I had to drop the magazine and reload it each time it malfunctioned.

My hypothesis is that due to magazine spring pressure, it is harder for the slide to strip the top couple of rounds vs. the bottom rounds in a magazine, and that the operating tolerance of the gun is so close to minimum that the slightest drag in the action plus perhaps insufficient return force from the recoil spring being undersprung is causing these malfunctions.

2. I do not think it is a bad magazine issue. Although I only have the two factory magazines, neither magazine exhibited a markedly greater tendency than the other to malfunction.

3. I think the Speer Lawman was most likely to malfunction because it is probably has the longest cartridge OAL, being both the heaviest bullet weight and FMJ profile.

4. The failures to feed were consistently looking like the picture below. The round would be stripped about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way out of the magazine and then nosedive into the feed ramp. Always in the same spot or very close to it, no matter which ammo type. The nice thing about this was that you could just drop the magazine and re-set the round to reload, there was not some goofy stovepipe-type malfunction.

Prodigy-Failure-to-Feed.jpg

Overall, I think this gun is likely to come right with a slightly heavier recoil spring and a feed ramp polish. I'm going to contact SA to see if they'll do these things for me, which will also give me an unfortunate opportunity to test the new situation with non-FFL individuals and trying to ship handguns...
 
Thanks for the review. I am thinking of getting one as a duty gun, but want to wait until the kinks get worked out first.

How was the trigger on yours?

I am curious, like Steve above, where the extractor was in relation to the rim when you had the FTFs.
 
Based on my experiences with single stack SA 9mms, I suspect the ramp is too steep. Case support, don'cha know. Maybe the chamber mouth is sharp.

If you send it back to SA, the warranty clerk may note "polished feed ramp" but what I watched FLG do was recontouring. Compare to your fancy 2011.
 
Where is the case rim in relation to the extractor hook when this malfunction occurs?

Thanks for the review. I am thinking of getting one as a duty gun, but want to wait until the kinks get worked out first.

How was the trigger on yours?

I am curious, like Steve above, where the extractor was in relation to the rim when you had the FTFs.

I actually didn't think to look, but next time I take it out I will check. What am I looking for in terms of why this is important and what might be causing it?

The trigger on mine was better than a lot of other people reported, but I am not a connoisseur of fine triggers. When I first dry-fired it, it had some mushiness and creep, but an OK pull weight and break for a production gun. It did seem to markedly improve after some shooting, so that was a point in its favor.

Obviously I am $1,500 invested, so I want it to work, but it is such a comfortable gun to shoot, and it shoots so well for me that if I can make some defined fixes and the failures to feed go away after, I would be happy carrying it.
 
Thanks so much for the follow up review and an honest one at that.

SA is a solid company so I am sure it will get right.

For something like this you would think they would have worked all the bugs out.
 
A 1911 is a controlled round feed, in that the rim of the cartridge slips into the extractor as the slide is going forward and is controlled as it enters the barrel. As such, extractor tension has to be just right in order to have enough flex to move and enough flex to grip. Too much and it won't load, as it won't go over the rim; too loose and it won't extract right, slipping off the rim as the slide recoils. There's also a point of tension where it will drag the brass back into the magazine, ruining the feed lips. You'll know if you have this problem, which you don't.

There's an easy experiment to check extractor tension.

1: Field strip the pistol, pulling out the barrel and spring from the slide.
2: Slip a dummy round under the tension of the extractor. If it won't slip under fairly easily, the extractor has too much tension.
3: Assuming it slips under, turn the slide upside down, face down, face up, etc. Basically move it all around. You want the extractor to be able to hold the round as you move the slide. It should not fall out.
4: Lightly shake the slide. It should still hold on to the round.

Here's a link to a 53 second Wilson Combat video showing the test.

Notice the jiggle in the video. Extractor tension is something to check every few hundred rounds, when you clean the gun.

Next, go to the range and load up a mag with 15 rounds. Load one from the mag, drop the mag, and then fire. It should load and extract easy if the tension is correct, flying off around the 3 o'clock position. Do this with the 15 rounds, 1 at a time. If it works right, your tension should be correct.
 
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A 1911 is a controlled round feed, in that the rim of the cartridge slips into the extractor as the slide is going forward and is controlled as it enters the barrel. As such, extractor tension has to be just right in order to have enough flex to move and enough flex to grip. Too much and it won't load, as it won't go over the rim; too loose and it won't extract right, slipping off the rim as the slide recoils. There's also a point of tension where it will drag the brass back into the magazine, ruining the feed lips. You'll know if you have this problem, which you don't.

There's an easy experiment to check extractor tension.

1: Field strip the pistol, pulling out the barrel and spring from the slide.
2: Slip a dummy round under the tension of the extractor. If it won't slip under fairly easily, the extractor has too much tension.
3: Assuming it slips under, turn the slide upside down, face down, face up, etc. Basically move it all around. You want the extractor to be able to hold the round as you move the slide. It should not fall out.
4: Lightly shake the slide. It should still hold on to the round.

Here's a link to a 53 second Wilson Combat video showing the test.

Notice the jiggle in the video. Extractor tension is something to check every few hundred rounds, when you clean the gun.

Next, go to the range and load up a mag with 15 rounds. Load one from the mag, drop the mag, and then fire. It should load and extract easy if the tension is correct, flying off around the 3 o'clock position. Do this with the 15 rounds, 1 at a time. If it works right, your tension should be correct.

Thanks for the tip, I will do this for a couple magazines on my next test trip to rule out extractor issues. I did notice with the 147-gr. I would occasionally get brass to face.
 
Thanks for the report!

Let’s see what other non sponsored reviewers have to say.

I like Nuttanfacy, he’a not paid for
 
Based on my experiences with single stack SA 9mms, I suspect the ramp is too steep. Case support, don'cha know. Maybe the chamber mouth is sharp.
This thought also occurred to me.

Jim Watson said:
If you send it back to SA, the warranty clerk may note "polished feed ramp" but what I watched FLG do was recontouring. Compare to your fancy 2011.

What do you mean, I'm not sure I'm following what you're saying here?
 
OK, what a warranty ticket will likely say is "polished feed ramp." This implies that it was made shiny without affecting its shape, right?
That was not enough on MY guns, the ramp had to be ground to a shallower angle so the bullet nose would ride smoothly up and into the chamber. I call that "recontouring." Yes, it is shiny, too.
It would be instructive to measure the integral ramp angle of a big name high dollar gun that actually worked out of the box.
Maybe I could borrow my FLG's machinist's protractor. But I don't have an unaltered SA to compare to the STI.
 
OK, what a warranty ticket will likely say is "polished feed ramp." This implies that it was made shiny without affecting its shape, right?
That was not enough on MY guns, the ramp had to be ground to a shallower angle so the bullet nose would ride smoothly up and into the chamber. I call that "recontouring." Yes, it is shiny, too.
It would be instructive to measure the integral ramp angle of a big name high dollar gun that actually worked out of the box.
Maybe I could borrow my FLG's machinist's protractor. But I don't have an unaltered SA to compare to the STI.

Sorry, FLG? I think that's the part I wasn't following on. I think I agree about it basically being reprofiled to be less steep, though. I probably don't much care as long as the end result is that it functions, though, unless some bubba gets carried away and polishes so much away that there's insufficient case support.
 
Sorry, FLG? I think that's the part I wasn't following on.

Sorry, Friendly Local Gunsmith.

Yes, you have to know what you are doing to adjust ramp angle.
I figure SA chose to err on the side of "case support" at the expense of less reliable and less versatile feeding at the tolerance limit.
But I made a little gauge and compared the modified SA barrel to others and there were some with more but some with less "support."
I have no reason to overload 9mm, factory and factory equivalent are fine.
 
A 1911 is a controlled round feed, in that the rim of the cartridge slips into the extractor as the slide is going forward and is controlled as it enters the barrel.
@IlikeSA, you know your way around a 1911.

If I may expand on your post, I'd add that there are three basic areas that need to be addressed when fitting an extractor:
  • Geometry
  • Deflection
  • Tension
In my experience, of these three important areas, tension is the least important and the easiest to set which is why it's last on the list. Deflection is much more important. Setting the deflection to no more than .010" will allow for a wide range of tension and it's very difficult, some say it's impossible, to bend an extractor enough to cause feeding issues with this small amount of deflection.

When I fit an extractor I am obsessed with getting the deflection set correctly. Once that's done I just bend the extractor and go test fire the pistol. I do not try to set the tension to any specific amount.

Years ago I had to send a pistol to a well known 'smith for some machine work. He noted the high amount of tension on the extractor and called me. I told him not to touch it because the pistol had already run flawlessly for a couple thousand rounds. Within reason, the more tension on an extractor, the more consistent ejection will be. Setting the deflection to no more than .010" allows way more tension to be put on the extractor than what is generally considered prudent.

For more than anyone ever wanted to know about correctly fitting extractors go to this LINK.
 
Watched some obscure videos on the tube last night, not a one of them said their pistols ran out of the box.
All had feeding failures, and all said the slide felt sluggish.

Thinking of canceling my order and just sticking with what I was gonna get anyways, Staccato.
 
Sorry, Friendly Local Gunsmith.

@IlikeSA, you know your way around a 1911.

Thank you both for the input!

Watched some obscure videos on the tube last night, not a one of them said their pistols ran out of the box.
All had feeding failures, and all said the slide felt sluggish.

Thinking of canceling my order and just sticking with what I was gonna get anyways, Staccato.

I am looking forward to the first tranche of troubleshooting posts. The initial posts have all been about failures to feed, and yes, the slide feeling sluggish, which everyone agrees is related to the failures to feed. Many people are getting spring kits to experiment on recoil spring weight, so I am hoping we start seeing these posts as well as people get those in, and that changing it to a 11-13# recoil spring sets everything right.
 
I dabble, but am always willing to learn more. Thanks for the expansion. I am looking at your link, you know far more than I.


@IlikeSA, you know your way around a 1911.

If I may expand on your post, I'd add that there are three basic areas that need to be addressed when fitting an extractor:
  • Geometry
  • Deflection
  • Tension
In my experience, of these three important areas, tension is the least important and the easiest to set which is why it's last on the list. Deflection is much more important. Setting the deflection to no more than .010" will allow for a wide range of tension and it's very difficult, some say it's impossible, to bend an extractor enough to cause feeding issues with this small amount of deflection.

When I fit an extractor I am obsessed with getting the deflection set correctly. Once that's done I just bend the extractor and go test fire the pistol. I do not try to set the tension to any specific amount.

Years ago I had to send a pistol to a well known 'smith for some machine work. He noted the high amount of tension on the extractor and called me. I told him not to touch it because the pistol had already run flawlessly for a couple thousand rounds. Within reason, the more tension on an extractor, the more consistent ejection will be. Setting the deflection to no more than .010" allows way more tension to be put on the extractor than what is generally considered prudent.

For more than anyone ever wanted to know about correctly fitting extractors go to this LINK.
 
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Watched some obscure videos on the tube last night, not a one of them said their pistols ran out of the box.
All had feeding failures, and all said the slide felt sluggish.

Thinking of canceling my order and just sticking with what I was gonna get anyways, Staccato.

Fondled a Prodigy today, my C2 ain't going anywhere.
 
I am a SA fan. I have three, including a Ronin 4.25” 9mm. The others are .45 ACP and .45 Super.

I have had zero fails to feed with any of my SA guns. I had high hopes for this pistol so reading these posts on forums, all stating a similar issue, is rather disappointing. :(

Stay safe.
 
I picked up a 5 inch Prodigy on Sunday. Put 150 rounds through it on Monday and had 4 failures to feed in the first 100 rounds all from the 17 rd mag and each one was with bullet 6 or 7. Last 50 rounds were trouble free. Yesterday I swapped out the recoil spring for a 12lb spring and headed back to the range. The gun ran like a champ with no issues. Ran it fast to see if it would hiccup and it never did. RO came up to me afterward asking what I was shooting because it was so accurate. I think the Prodigy just needs to be run in. Already I’m seeing the Cerakote wear on the rails and the slide is feeling faster.
 
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