First custom rifle build

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The_shooter

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Thinking of building a custom rifle in 30-06 but I want to hear other ideas of what caliber,stock,finish and action you gentlemen would want to use if you were building your own.
 
As a garage "gunsmith" (feels like a laughable term compared to what a good gunsmith does), I'd say uses and personal preferences dictate the build more than anything else.
The next question is how much of the work are you capable of, and want to do yourself.
Then there's always the question of how much you want to spend.


Of the three most recent builds I've done, or am in the progress of doing, I've used a Savage, a Remington, and a Ruger American as the base action.
By personal preference I have eschewed barrel nuts, even on the Savage and American.
I used synthetic or laminate stocks on all of them due to cost and intended use.

The Savage got chambered in 30-06 AI because the barrel I picked up on the cheap was a 308, specifically wanted to try The 30-06 AI for something similar like a 30 gibbs, and I was building hunting a rifle.

700 is chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor, because I happen to run across a Christensen barrel on sale in that chamber, and threaded for that action type. It got built as a lightweight semi-target rifle more because the parts dictated that sort of a build rather than any other option.

The Ruger American is going to be a switch-barreled rifle with a 264 Winchester, 300 Winchester, and 458 Winchester barrel set. All of that was chosen because it fits into the idea of a three-barrel hunting rifle that can comfortably take anything on the planet.
It's also going to get a 270 weatherby barrel because I happen to have 270 Winchester barrel and I don't like the 270 Winchester......

going into a project knowing what you want to do with it often saves you quite a bit of money and work. None of these current ones have been real money pits, but I've added bits and pieces to them, and changed stuff I might not have had I started with a solid idea of what I wanted to build.

The last build I did before these was my 375 Ruger based on them Browning A-bolt. That one I knew exactly what I was doing going into it and the gun came out almost exactly as I had intended. No screw ups to be fixed or changes to be made after the fact. I'm into that particular gun for only a little bit more than the cost of the original rifle, and maybe 2 hours 3 hours worth of work.
 
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As a garage "gunsmith" (feels like a laughable term compared to what a good gunsmith does), I'd say uses and personal preferences dictate the build more than anything else.
The next question is how much of the work are you capable of, and want to do yourself.
Then there's always the question of how much you want to spend.


Of the three most recent builds I've done, or am in the progress of doing, I've used a Savage, a Remington, and a Ruger American as the base action.
By personal preference I have eschewed barrel nuts, even on the Savage and American.
I used synthetic or laminate stocks on all of them due to cost and intended use.

The Savage got chambered in 30-06 AI because the barrel I picked up on the cheap was a 308, specifically wanted to try The 30-06 AI for something similar like a 30 gibbs, and I was building hunting a rifle.

700 is chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor, because I happen to run across a Christensen barrel on sale in that chamber, and threaded for that action type. It got built as a lightweight semi-target rifle more because the parts dictated that sort of a build rather than any other option.

The Ruger American is going to be a switch-barreled rifle with a 264 Winchester, 300 Winchester, and 458 Winchester barrel set. All of that was chosen because it fits into the idea of a three-barrel hunting rifle that can comfortably take anything on the planet.
It's also going to get a 270 weatherby barrel because I happen to have 270 Winchester barrel and I don't like the 270 Winchester......

going into a project knowing what you want to do with it often saves you quite a bit of money and work. None of these current ones have been real money pits, but I've added bits and pieces to them, and changed stuff I might not have had I started with a solid idea of what I wanted to build.

The last build I did before these was my 375 Ruger based on them Browning A-bolt. That one I knew exactly what I was doing going into it and the gun came out almost exactly as I had intended. No screw ups to be fixed or changes to be made after the fact. I'm into that particular gun for only a little bit more than the cost of the original rifle, and maybe 2 hours 3 hours worth of work.
I definitely know I want 30cal and A controlled round feed action also the rifle will be geared toward hunting
 
I definitely know I want 30cal and A controlled round feed action also the rifle will be geared toward hunting
Sounds like a good start.
Were you considering custom actions like the Mausingfields, or Bighorn among others? or more inclined to stick with Mauser 98s, Win70s, or Ruger77s and the like?
The cost can be a big influencer on this choice, as finding a cheap, scruffy, but still very functional 70, 77, sporterized or sometimes even a commercial 98 (the different manufactures and dates that lend themselves to custom builds are well beyond my ken) is often not horribly difficult.
That said, if you really want a top end custom, and are willing to spend for it, I think the aftermarket action options are actually more bang for your buck, considering what extra cost is likely to be incurred in getting a OTC rifle action upto the same specs. Of course if you really WANT a custom 70 or 98...or what ever....then that may be worth the extra cost to YOU, just to have the action you wanted.

What style of stock, are we looking at? something modern esk like a Mcmillan game scout, or more along the lines of a traditional "sporter" stock? also stock material are you interested in? Composite, or Wood....or on the off chance a Chassis?
Hunting style, conditions, and personal preference play a huge role in choosing a stock. This has always been less of a question for me than other aspects of a custom build. I cant afford the kind of wood I want on a nice rifle, so synthetics or Laminates are usually my go-to options, with style being dictated primarily by expected usage.

You also have to choose a barrel length, and profile, which has the largest effect on the overall gun weight and length of any option (unless you chose a ridiculously heavy stock, or a folder/collapsible in regards to length).
Personally, I like long barrels, so to keep the overall weight down I have to go with lighter profiles, or carbon wraps like my .280 and 6.5 have. That fits my hunting style with shooting ease being more important to me personally than easy of carry or storage.
Everyones situation and usages are different tho, and If your shooting out of a cramped position, traveling to hunt, or carrying your rifle miles and miles, you might want a different barrel length and profile than I...or hey maybe you just LIKE a different feel to your rifle than I do.

Lets not forget the small stuff
like bottom metal/magazine type?
What mounts you need/want for your bipod, sling, or whatever you happen to want to attach to your gun...or have your gun attach to?
Do you want ornamentation etc on your rifle?
Optics, Irons, or both?

Then the cartridge should also fit into the equation of task and desire.
Personally, I have no real interest in a synthetic stocked .30-06, no matter how well it fits tasks I might assign it. That particular cartridge will only be an option for me in rifles with nice bluing, and nice wood (unless an amazing deal on something pops up of course).
In that instance, my desires out way the practicality, and from experience, I KNOW that matters more to ME.
Everyone has to make those decisions for themselves tho, and while you COULD make a bad call, this is probably the easiest of the questions to answer.


Im sure I'm forgetting stuff, but I'm pretty sure those are the major questions I've gone over for the builds I've done that weren't....uh....spur of the moment type of things.
 
Well how do you think would look better stainless or cerakote with a hardwood stock. This is kinda what I’m going for at the moment
 

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Bighorn or similar action. Barrel nut setup. If you want 30-06, I would go with 30-06 AI since it is a custom.

McMillan or Manners stock.

Since you want a wood stocking would just get whichever flavor suits your fancy.
 
Bighorn or similar action. Barrel nut setup. If you want 30-06, I would go with 30-06 AI since it is a custom.

McMillan or Manners stock.

Since you want a wood stocking would just get whichever flavor suits your fancy.
Never gave 30-06 AI a look is there a good enough advantage to out weigh being able to walk in any hardware store or sports center and get a box
 
Well how do you think would look better stainless or cerakote with a hardwood stock. This is kinda what I’m going for at the moment
I LIKE bead blasted stainless with an nice oil rubbed stock. But I also like satin black and nice wood. The Cerakote would also offer an added layer of elemental resistance.
....looks wise id be hard pressed to say ones better than the other.......
 
Never gave 30-06 AI a look is there a good enough advantage to out weigh being able to walk in any hardware store or sports center and get a box
Its really only about a 5% increase, but its still and increase.....they look really bloody cool too.
You can also shoot regular 06 rounds out of an AI chamber...IF done properly. So your jot loosing anything going AI, besides having to pay more for dies (usually).
 
Let us know what your budget is and we’ll do our best to help you blow it. :evil:

I’m a nut for control feed, claw extractor designs. I have 2 custom rifles built on them with another in the works.

The Mausingfield - configured more for target work. It also lacks a 3 position safety.

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FN SPR - my favorite hunting rifle

E5A70FA2-51FF-4911-A624-4CABD22C4C6B.jpeg
 
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You have made two really good choices in picking a Model 70 controlled feed action and a 30-06. Your next big choice is to decide what you want the rifle to weigh. If it is a true hunting rifle to be carried in the field the weight with scope and sling should be near 8 1/2 pounds which will probably limit you to a 22 inch barrel with a standard 3 to 9 power scope and both really work good with a 30-06. I shoot dozens of rounds of 30-06 each year through a rifle like this and I love these rifles.
 
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Also nothing wrong with a Remington 700 action or one of the custom Clones. Drop right into a Remington type inlet stock and available in Blue or stainless. Lots of aftermarket things available for them. I like short cartridges that fill with powder rather than space where the powder can move around before ignition. If you want something you can buy off the shelf and that is really accurate also, I would opt of a .308 instead of a .30-06.

Bob
 
So Winchester m70 action black cerakote finish and a hart 24” barrel. This is my line up so far still debating what hardwood to pick

If you're going with a traditional looking rifle walnut is the preferred pick. You can spend a ton of money on a pretty piece of figured walnut but a quality piece of quarter sawed walnut is more functional and will probably be more accurate. Pretty wood won't add to the accuracy of the rifle. Slab sawed wood is the prettiest of the straight grained wood but I prefer a high quality piece of straight grained wood that is quarter sawed. In a slab sawed blank the grain of the wood lays vertical and in a quarter sawed blank the grain of the wood lays horizontal.

You could solve the stock and barrel problem really quickly just by buying a new Model 70 standard or super grade rifle with a walnut stock.
 
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If you're going with a traditional looking rifle walnut is the preferred pick. You can spend a ton of money on a pretty piece of figured walnut but a quality piece of quarter sawed walnut is more functional and will probably be more accurate. Pretty wood won't add to the accuracy of the rifle. Slab sawed wood is the prettiest of the straight grained wood but I prefer a high quality piece of straight grained wood that is quarter sawed. In a slab sawed blank the grain of the wood lays vertical and in a slab sawed blank the grain of the wood lays horizontal.

You could solve the stock and barrel problem really quickly just by buying a new Model 70 standard or super grade rifle with a walnut stock.
That’s what I’m thinking of doing and just tweaking anything else I would want on it
 
That’s what I’m thinking of doing and just tweaking anything else I would want on it

I need to clarify a badly typed sentence. I should have said, "In a slab sawed blank the grain of the wood lays vertical and in a quarter sawed blank the grain of the wood lays horizontal."

Yes, I think you would be ahead to buy a new Model 70 and use it as is to find the parts that you don't like and make changes as you go along. You can pick whatever scope and mounts you like, change the stock, length of pull, trigger, recoil pad, or sling swivel mounts any time you want.
 
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