first run with the annealer

[jmorris]

I found a photo of one of these and thought it would be neat to have one. I just didn't want to spend the $480 bucks they were asking. I thought some of you guys/gals might find it interesting.

Video
http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/?action=view&current=annealer.flv









It’s hard to capture the amount of annealing done the two photos are of the same cases in different lighting. The annealed case (right) looks just like the ss109 I had on hand.


Now it just needs a frame/basket and adapted to work with the Dillon case feeder.

 

[Chawbaccer]

Nice going. Did you do any testing or just eyeball as to how long the case was in the flame? Would there be any benefit to dropping the cases into a water quench?

 

[jmorris]

I use http://www.testandmeasurement.com/product.mvc/Tempilstik-0001?VNETCOOKIE=NO to get to the proper temp.

http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html has the most information on the subject that I have found and state quenching in water has no effect.

 

[Chawbaccer]

Thanks for the info.

 

[dagger dog]

Having done a little blacksmithing, forging of different metals, and hardening and tempering. I've found out with non-ferrous brass and aluminum in particular to anneal, if you heat to the point that a finger wet with saliva will sizzle when touched to the heated metal, that is just about the correct temperature range. I quench in water.
Another method is Tempilac, a paint that changes color when the correct heat is reached. You coud use a bottle to gain the experiance and then go to the saliva method.

The standard is to stand the cases in a pan of water that reaches 1/2 way up the case , heat ,then tip over into the water, this works well with large batches. and would look to be a little better in not heating and softening of the bottom portion of the case.

 

[Dean Williams]

Nicely made set-up!

 

[moooose102]

i agree that it looks neat. but without a water quench, i would be afraid of the heat transfering to far down into the case. from the photo, if you drilled a hole at the next station (past the heating point), and fitted a water bucket underneath, that should do the job nicely.

 

[Corkster]

I want one!!!!

 

[Borg]

That's a great looking machine you got there.
Wouldn't want to share the specs on it would you?
I've been annealing for over 40 years, and have become very adept at it,, but you've got me beat by far for timing.
Borg

 

[rino451]

Moose, watch the movie. It has capability to water quench. The pics are (obviously?) pics of the proof of concept working model. Still needs stands or fixture for benzo bottles and quench.

 

[Coltdriver]

I too have just recently begun annealing my brass.

I am using a tempilstik too. I got a kit from Hornady but they only include tempilaq paint that is good for 425 degrees.

425 degrees is the point at which the brass just begins to undergo a crystal structure change and you would have to hold the brass at that temp for over an hour to get the annealing effect.

It is extremely important not to heat the base of the case as you do not want to soften that part of the case. You will know you messed up if the primer pocket expands with the first shooting. The other way you will know is if you rupture a case. You have to be careful because you can wreck your rifle and endanger yourself with an overly softened case.

Holding the brass at somewhere between 700 and 800 degrees for about 4 seconds will do the trick and that is why you quench. You want to prevent the base from softening up.

I am just doing small batch work right now but your set up sure is nice.

 

[Borg]

Don't know where you heard that you have to hold 425 for an hr,, but when I anneal, I do about 550for about 6 seconds,, barely enough tdiscolor the brass.
I get 7 loads befores splitting so anneal at 5 and have no troubes.
Borg

 

[ants]

jmorris, maybe you can post this in the Sticky a the top of the subforum, as a 'clever little thing' you invented.

 

[Walkalong]

He did not "invent" it, but it is a very nicely made home version of the $480 one.. Sweet..

All it needs is a hole in the base plate at the right spot to drop the cases and water quench. It may have it and I just can't see it.

 

[Coltdriver]

Competition bench loaders get 40 reloads out of quality brass like Lapua and Norma with the exact right annealing. Too much and you ruin the brass. Too little and it work hardens anyway.

750 to 800 for about 4 to 5 seconds is known to get the best life. Plus or minus a bit depending on which cartridge.

I just picked up my templistiks so I will let you know how my efforts turn out. I am taking the advice of some world class bench rest 1000 yard shooters.

 

[Borg]

A LIGHT bluish color run is just right,, a brown anneal color, like the mil brass makes it dead soft,, which you don't want.
Borg

 

[lesterg3]

Midway has tempilaq paint for temperatures up to 725 F.

 

[epmn]

I have one of the commercial ones, brass-o-matic, that look like the first picture. I didn't have it a week before I completely rebuilt the section used to hold the torches. They are now mounted to a vertical linear stage that allows me to repeatably change torch height quickly if I want to do different cases in one sitting. Just for fun, Instead of trying to figure out the amount of time the case is in the flame I picked up a cheap laser tachometer so that I can repeatably set the speed. The things a person does in the workshop.

If I had it to do again I wouldn't buy an annealer, I would build one.

epmn

 

[jmorris]

Wouldn't want to share the specs on it would you?

It really is as easy as it looks; the only “drive system” is the 4.5” aluminum wheel with a 10-32 bolt on 2” radius. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2L009 is the gear motor I used. The “saw” (12" od) is just mounted to a 3/8 rod that rides in oil-lite bushings.

 

[Idano]

jmorris,

What did you use to puch the holes into the saw blade?

 

[arizona98tj]

Water quenching.....looks like a strategically placed hole in the washing machine lid would solve that problem, assuming you put the machine on small load, cold cycle.

 

[jmorris]

What did you use to puch the holes into the saw blade?

I've had a lot of questions on this part from folks wanting to build there own. The part is 1/8" thick steel cut out with a CNC laser. For $45 + shipping I'll send you a copy.

 

[280shooter]

i did mine with the cases sitting in water,,I dont know about doing it the way you did,If the heat doesnt transfer all the way through the cases,

 

[TOU]

Can you post photos of your alterations?

Very very cool! Thank you for selflessly posting this to your fellow shooters...very good form!

I have one of the commercial ones, brass-o-matic, that look like the first picture. I didn't have it a week before I completely rebuilt the section used to hold the torches. They are now mounted to a vertical linear stage that allows me to repeatably change torch height quickly if I want to do different cases in one sitting. Just for fun, Instead of trying to figure out the amount of time the case is in the flame I picked up a cheap laser tachometer so that I can repeatably set the speed. The things a person does in the workshop.

If I had it to do again I wouldn't buy an annealer, I would build one.

epmn

Hey epmn,

Can you post photos of your alterations?

 

[epmn]

The modified torch holders. The tape on the left of the vertical slide is marked for different case heights.

epmn