First time loading coated lead bullet help

[Wing Rider]

I just made my first order of coated lead bullets from MBC. I got the 357 mag grooveless 158gn SWC and the 44 mag 240gn RNFP. I am looking thru my Lyman 50th manual and the alliant powder website to determine the loads to use and not sure what to use. I currently have 2400 powder and BE-86. In the Lyman manual, they list a 155 gn and a 160 gn. The 155gn states using 2400 at 10.6 to 14 grn of powder but the alliant site does not list a cast bullet for 2400. I have searched this website for coated bullets and some say to use lead data and some say you can use jacketed data. This is my first attempt at using coated bullets so any help would be great.
Ray

 

[Texas10mm]

It's a lead bullet. Use lead data.

Alliant posts very little data.

If you get the Lyman Cast Bullet manual you'll have more data.

 

[AJC1]

It's a lead bullet. Use lead data.

Alliant posts very little data.

If you get the Lyman Cast Bullet manual you'll have more data.

Exactly right, and also my recommendation.

 

[Mr_Flintstone]

I would definitely start with cast data, as it is really unknown how the coating will affect pressure when using jacketed data. You kinda have to “estimate” with a lot of cast bullets because unless it is from the exact mold listed in the manual, the bullet shape and seating depth won’t exactly match that of a commercially bought bullet. I usually look at two or three manuals to find what is closest, and then work up from the minimum charge. Lyman’s CBH #4 shows a 158 gr flat point, but it isn’t an exact match to your bullet. It lists 12.2 gr to a max of 13.5 gr 2400. My “Complete Reloading Manual for .357 Magnum” (which I recommend for each caliber you load) shows a bullet closer to the MBC bullet in the RCBS section, but doesn’t list 2400 as a pistol load. It does list 15.5 gr 2400 as a max in the rifle section. I wouldn’t advise starting there though.

Different manuals will often times give different min and max loads even for the same bullet. You’ll have to use your own judgement based on available information. Start on the lower end, though, and work upward looking for danger signs. 50 FPS more velocity isn’t worth the loss of a hand or eye.

 

[edwardware]

It's a lead bullet; use lead data.

It's also coated, which makes it more forgiving vs high velocity and less-than-ideal sizing, but it's still lead.

 

[LiveLife]

Although bullet coatings have been tested way above jacketed load data velocities (around 1600-1800 fps), it's been my experience that most coated lead bullets are sized larger like lubed lead bullets and using lead load data has worked for me.


Bayou Bullets recommends using lead load data for Hi-Tek coated bullets - https://bayoubullets.net/about-our-bullets-1/

We recommend using standard cast bullet loading data

Eggleston recommends use of lead load data for their coated bullets - https://www.egglestonmunitions.com/load-data.html

use load data for LEAD bullets

Blue Bullets recommends use of lead load data for their coated bullets - https://thebluebullets.com/load-data/

We recommend that you use published lead load data

 

[mdi]

I have purchased about 400 Hi-Tek bullets and PCed about 500+ bullets for most of my handguns and 3 of my rifles. I treat and load all my coated just like lead (case prep, bullet diameters and loading along with load data). All worked well. I did go a bit higher than starting loads with some (357 Mag, 9mm, and 44 Mag.), but less than max with lead data and if I wanted higher velocities, I'd just go with jacketed bullets.

 

[Riomouse911]

I may be a bit out of the norm when it comes to loading coated lead or plated bullets, but I flare the case mouths a little bit more than normal when loading coated or plated bullets vs jacketed bullets.

Most folks say to use as little flare as possible to limit the stresses on the case mouths that lead to work hardening and ultimately case splits, which is sage advice. However, I have scraped the coating off of enough of these types of bullets with a “ jacketed bullet sized” flare to make that little change in my routine.

I’ve loaded coated bullets in .38 - .357, .44 Spl-Mag, 45 Colt, .45/70, .35 Rem and .30-30 from a bunch of different vendors and all will scrape the coating or plating if the flare isn’t enough (especially if the bullet isn’t perfectly straight when started I to the seating die.

Just an observation, YMMV .

Stay safe.

 

[Bfh_auto]

I prefer MBC coated bullets to jacketed.
I usually start at cast data and work up to jacketed data unless they are for target shooting.
Like Riomouse911, I like to flare slightly more than with jacketed.
I'm willing to bet you found a new favorite bullet supplier.

 

[Wing Rider]

Thanks everyone for the input. Looks like I will be getting another book to add to my collection. I am looking forward to seeing how these do. My friend loaded some "blue" bullets and said that he did not like them because they leaded his barrel. I am not sure if it was lead he was seeing or not. This will be my first attempt at coated. I hope that I have found a favorite bullet.

 

[Wing Rider]

Is the Lyman cast bullet handbook 4th edition the book that I should get?

 

[mdi]

Most folks say to use as little flare as possible to limit the stresses on the case mouths that lead to work hardening and ultimately case splits, which is sage advice. However, I have scraped the coating off of enough of these types of bullets with a “ jacketed bullet sized” flare to make that little change in my routine.

Yep, case mouths do need to be flared (it's kinda hard to stuff a .357" slug into a .354" tube without some sort of entry way). I treat/reload coated bullets the same as lead bullets. Case mouths need to be flared. I tell newer lead bullet reloaders to use as much flare as necessary to get good ammo now, and worry about case life later (and how many more reloadings will a min. flared case get over a max flared case, 5? 8?). For a new user, case mouths are flared too much when they won't enter the seating die and excess flare is removed in the crimping step. With experience, less taper/flare can be used, but unless you are reloading an expensive or hard to find case/cartridge most brass is easy to find and not overly expensive...

Many consider the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook to be the best reference for lead bullet shooting. I have both the 3rd and 4th Editions and prefer the 3rd as it seems to be more new caster friendly. The 4th has a lot of info on Black Powder Cartridge bullet casting, shooting.

 

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I just made my first order of coated lead bullets from MBC. I got the 357 mag grooveless 158gn SWC and the 44 mag 240gn RNFP. I am looking thru my Lyman 50th manual and the alliant powder website to determine the loads to use and not sure what to use. I currently have 2400 powder and BE-86. In the Lyman manual, they list a 155 gn and a 160 gn. The 155gn states using 2400 at 10.6 to 14 grn of powder but the alliant site does not list a cast bullet for 2400. I have searched this website for coated bullets and some say to use lead data and some say you can use jacketed data. This is my first attempt at using coated bullets so any help would be great.
Ray

just use the starting load for jacketed bullets for your lead bullets of the same profile and you will be fine I would save your 2400 for jacketed bullets and use Unique for the Cast bullets if you can

 

[Wing Rider]

Thanks again for the info. I can understand saving my 2400 for jacketed. Has anyone used BE-86 with coated lead bullets? I have 1# of it and have not opened it yet. I bought it to get a softer round for wife to shoot but have not got to use it yet. Looking forward to trying them.

 

[lordpaxman]

I bought it to get a softer round for wife to shoot but have not got to use it yet. Looking forward to trying them.

Tagging in to see what others say about BE86. I too bought a pound to try but have yet to load. Most of my light loads are with a faster powder - do you have anything faster? Also, you can load for a .38 in .357 and get extremely light loads. Good luck!