First time out with my new toy (chronograph)

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I don't know why they don't come with wood.
Probably because a 1/8" dowel is very breakable, and they are inconsistent in diameter. I have switched to bamboo skewers because they work and are never too tight in the plastic housing or screens. I have broke a couple of wooden dowels getting them out of the chrono after use.
 
Do use a rest. I was shutting down and saw "Oh, there is another batch, I'll just run them through offhand." Oops.
By the time I paid shipping the half price replacement CE was more like 3/4.

I do use wooden dowels to support the diffusers. At times I have had to clip a piece of cardboard to give more shade over the detectors. Sometimes it helps to just tilt the whole assembly.
Don't shoot in tree shade, the dappled sunlight will drive it nuts, as will fluorescent lights indoors.

I have an earlier Pro Chrono Digital with wired remote. Handy when it works but the connection is poor. I had it replaced once and it lasted until I shot it, but the half price replacement unit went out very early.
I have a CED with lots of bells and whistles but lots of wires. I thought getting smoked in The Incident spoiled it so I bought the CE. Turns out the CED cleaned up ok and I use it when I have a lot of loads to run.
 
I just assumed that my connection issues were because my tablet and phone are old but after reading some of these replies maybe it's something simple after all. I'll have to play with it a bit. It's not a real big deal to me as I don't really mind recording the readings the old school way, on paper. I then enter the data to a spreadsheet when I get home.

I'm heading out shortly to pick up my new gun which just arrived at the gun shop yesterday. It'll be the first .45 I've owned so a trip to the range is scheduled for later today after the initial cleaning. I've already loaded some test rounds in anticipation of getting the gun.

The chrono will be getting lots of work in the near future as I've always loaded my pistol rounds with CFE but the last time I bought powder I couldn't get it so I bought a jug of Titegroup and I know that's a lot different. Mucho testing will be needed.
 
I believe the best thing would be a thin, light colored sheet, or something that would allow a bright diffused light that is broadcast over the chrono.

I use a sheet sold as a flexable cutting board. Its about the right size to clip onto the screens. I keep it rolled up and wrapped around a tripod leg when not in use. Just attach to screens with binder clips to make a roof. When overcast, screens are usually not needed and I just use long plastic straws or stirring sticks in the post holes. If hit, they don't damage the unit.
 
My favorite .45 ACP load for practice is a RMR plated 230 RN with 4.7gr of HP38/W231. Nice an light. 5gr of HP38 also shot well for me.
I had good results with AA#2 as well for practice loads.

Hope you like your new gun.

Mixed range brass, WIN LP, charges as thrown after setting measure
String: 7
Date: 5/15/2016
Time: 10:18:19 AM
Grains: 230
Hi Vel: 733
Low Vel: 689
Ave Vel: 702
Ext Spread: 44
Std Dev: 17
45 4.7 HP38 RMR 230 1.21
Velocity Power Factor Ft/Lbs
733 168.59 274.37 (this one messed up the ES and SD numbers)
697 160.31 248.082
698 160.54 248.794
693 159.39 245.243
689 158.47 242.42

(note above is the old RMR RN shorter, stuubbier bullet than the new ones)

Name RMR 230 RN-NEW 5.0 AA2
Notes N/A
Number of Shots 4
Extreme Spread 27
Average 753
Standard Deviation 11
Power Factor Average 173
Power Factor Low 169
Power Factor High 175
Shot List Index Velocity Bullet Weight Ft/Lbs Power Factor
RMR 230 RN-NEW 5.0 AA2 1 759 230 294 175
RMR 230 RN-NEW 5.0 AA2 2 761 230 296 175
RMR 230 RN-NEW 5.0 AA2 3 758 230 293 174
RMR 230 RN-NEW 5.0 AA2 4 734 230 275 169
 
I have shot the metal shield supports at least a dozen times inside a year. If I aimed at these slender wire supports I could not hit them that frequently. Hit it the last time dead center on the display. I then gave up.
.

To close the loop from me I wound up buying a Labradar ($$) which is far harder to shoot.
 
I picked up my new M&P Compact45 yesterday and headed to the range to try out some loads I'd already made up in anticipation of getting the gun. They were light loads (6.9 gr of CFE), slightly below the recommended starting load as I've figured out it's best to start low and work up. I only had 30 rounds and had 3 that didn't cycle properly. Part of that may be the brand new gun not being broken in but it was obvious the loads were a bit too light by the chrono readings. The average was 874 fps while the range for the 185 grain bullets I was using is listed as 925-1150 fps. I'll make up some more test rounds right at the starting load (7.1 gr) and see how that goes.

It was a bright full sun type day and at first I had some problems with the sun on the sensors. I was able to take the bandana I use for a facemask these days and drape it over the sunshields which solved the problem. I was able to thread the corners through the sunshield holes to hold it in place.

My first impression of the new gun, which is the first .45 I ever shot, was that the recoil was about the same as my 9mm's. But then the loads were too light so I expect a tad more recoil next time out. All in all though it's a sweet shooting gun.

By the way, I took the advice offered here and fired from a rest. No chronos were harmed during this exercise.
 
IMO CFE-P is a bit slow for anything other than Full power loads in .45.
It does give good vels at the top, but at least for me in my gun with 230s it wasn't happy until I got close to the listed max, and for practice/fun I prefer something lighter.
 
Frankly, I’m surprised how many people have shot their Chrono. Many, many rounds though the type you have in your pics. No prob...ever.

Hint: Boresight through the Chrono screens.

I use the bayonet style nowadays. No brainer.
 
Frankly, I’m surprised how many people have shot their Chrono. Many, many rounds though the type you have in your pics. No prob...ever.

Hint: Boresight through the Chrono screens.

I use the bayonet style nowadays. No brainer.
I’ve put close to 1100 shot groups (3 to 10 rounds each group) across mine and have not hit it yet, but I do use a rest now. I had a close call once, pulled a shot with a pistol, somehow I did not hit it.

There is the old saying: There are two types of chrono users - those who have shot their chrono, and those that will. :)
 
IMO CFE-P is a bit slow for anything other than Full power loads in .45.
It does give good vels at the top, but at least for me in my gun with 230s it wasn't happy until I got close to the listed max, and for practice/fun I prefer something lighter.

What are your thoughts on Titegroup for .45? I bought a jug of that a couple weeks ago when powder was really in short supply as it was all I could get. I'll soon be loading up both 185's and 230's with that powder. Looks like the starting loads are listed as 5.0 for 185 and 4.4 for 230.
 
I only loaded one can of Titegroup before going back to W231
.45 ACP 5" Briley barrel
230 cast + 4.5 gr Titegroup = 812 fps
230 FMJ + 4.5 gr Titegroup = 778 fps

185 JHP + 5.4 gr Titegroup = 927 fps CAUTION 5.5 is MAXIMUM

The only thing against Titegroup is that it is very fast burning so the 10% between Start and Maximum is not a lot on the scale.
 
I know nothing about a chronograph, except generaly how they work. So, why would lighting affect readings? Is it like trying to tead your phone screen on dorect broght sunlight, or does light affect the screens sensing as the bullet passes thru the screens?
My experience suggests the SAME lighting be applied to both sensors. Do not use bright sunlight on one and shadow on the other. That seems to confuse the signals. Also, the sensors start or stop time when the bullet disrupts the amount of light on a sensor. Consequently, when the light is too dim, the 'shadow' (for lack of better word) cannot be seen. However, the amount of light seems to vary with the sensors and main computer. Bright sunlight is best in my experience.

By the way, I've had - bought - Chrony brand, CED brand and Labradar brand. I have to query or send the Labradar chronograph back for correction, but the most reliable and cheapest to operate over time is the cheapest one, Chrony. The other two brands promise more and deliver more information - when they work. The Chrony merely gives velocities, reliably.
 
mmb617...I load for my 2.5" Charter Arms Bulldog XL revolver which uses the 45 Colt round. With 6.1 grains Titegroup and a 250 grain coated RNFP bullet my chrono results are high 600s to low 700s (fps). With a lead non-coated 255 grain SWC bullet my #'s are in the high 600s. The recoil is very acceptable and the bullets are accurate. With the coated bullets and faster/hotter powders, I do notice residue from the coating. On the other hand, the lead/lube bullets are very clean. This has caused me to rethink using coated bullets.
 
What are your thoughts on Titegroup for .45?

Lots of people like Titegroup. I don't really care for it but it should work in .45.

Not as much vel on top as some others but should make good mid range loads
 
Lots of people like Titegroup. I don't really care for it but it should work in .45.

Not as much vel on top as some others but should make good mid range loads

I should have some data early this week as I intend to chrono some .45 rounds using both 185 gr and 230 gr bullets. Both are loaded with the listed starting loads of Titegroup. I'll probably shoot some of them today and see how they feel but I'll be going to the range with my son and one of his co-workers so I don't want to hold things up by fooling with the chrono. I'll make another trip by myself mid-week for the chrono work.
 
Titegroup will be fine, just make sure the charge weights and COLs are accurate. It meters well, burns well, clean, hot, but is relatively low volume due to its high energy density. For my guns it usually produces tight groups... I know I know, sounds a bit funny but it is a good powder to keep on hand. Good luck!
 
As others have said, I put my chrony MUCH closer to the rifle...you have to have it some distance, usually around 10 feet minimum, or the muzzle blast will affect the readings, but it doesn't need to be just in front of the target. That much extra room for error if it's farther from the target. On the other hand, that close, I can't really tell where the metal supports are...I just line up a target behind them visually and take it on faith that if I hit the target, I'll miss the rods. I do think shooting at a target rather than just trying to blow through the rods makes a difference.

If you hit a metal rod it might telegraph enough energy into the chrono to break a few things.

I can testify to that. Spent 4 years being proud I'd never shot my chrony and giggling at those who had. Then recently, I was shooting a ladder group and had a couple of extra known baseline rounds left at the end so I shifted to a steel gong two feet to left of my ladder target that was 100 yards away, forgetting that my ladder target was THROUGH the uprights. Hit an upright, and was initially relieved to see that it was only an upright, then realized that the force of cleanly severing the upright had popped out the front velocity sensor case by leverage. Luckily, the sensor itself was not damaged and I could place it back in position and it still works (I've tested it twice with known loads since). Had some difficulty, though, finding a suitable stainless steel support rod of similar diameter (the replacements from Chrony are incredibly expensive, like >$15 a rod).
 
I have been browsing the ol interweb for something cost effective, and frangible to replace the steel rods with. There really is no need for steel, other than being cheap, and it would minimize, if not eliminate damage from a rod strike. I need to bring my calipers with me to measure with, next time I have to go into town.

I'm thinking maybe those cheap plastic reflectors people get for their driveways should be stiff enough, and, well... cheap!
 
I was back at the range yesterday trying out some loads in 9 mm and .45 ACP, as I've switched over to Titegroup from CFE. I'm having fun and gathering some useful data with this thing.

The way I set up seems to be working well for me. Yes I am using a rest. It's just a small pillow on top of my ammo box which is sitting on a small table, and I'm on folding chair. This gives me a pretty solid support. I shoot 12 ft from the chrono and this plate represents a total of 49 shots with all but one well clear of hitting the chrono or the sunshield supports. The group is a bit high left. The high is probably because I was aiming at the very top of the dot, and the left is just me I'm sure. At any rate every shot recorded except that one that's way low left. Don't know what happened there.

49890730707_ce0eb6fe8b_c.jpg

It was a sunny day and I thought I might have to provide some extra shade since the sunshields weren't really shading the sensors but it worked fine just as it was. I'm really happy with this machine considering it was under $100.
 
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