First time out with my new toy (chronograph)

[mmb617]

I'm still pretty new at this whole reloading thing and thought that having a chronograph would be useful. I'm loading what I think are relatively light loads but I wanted some real world numbers.

Before I got started I did some research and the one recurring theme I saw was "Don't shoot the chrono!". I guess that happens more than you might think, especially with rifles as sometimes folks don't take into consideration that the scope is mounted higher than the barrel bore thus causing real short range shots to hit low.

I got to the range and had it all to myself which was nice as I could take my time and setup any way I wanted. I thought it would be easier to set a target up directly behind the chrono rather than just aiming through the sunshield supports. I set the chrono up with the target behind it then moved the chrono out of the way for some test shots as I didn't want to take any chances.

I figured I didn't need any kind of rest for the pistol shots as it would be pretty bad if I couldn't get a real tight group when shooting from only 10 ft away, and that's how it worked out. After a couple rounds I was confident enough to move the chrono into position and get some numbers.

After a mag or so with the pistol I wanted to run the rifle and I could see how people wind up shooting the chrono. I briefly considered just shooting from a standing position but didn't feel comfortable taking the chance even at such a short distance, so I set up a little table to use the bipod. I once again set the chrono aside and tried a couple test shots. The rifle is sighted in for 100 yds so I knew it would be way off at 10 ft and it was low enough that if I'd been aiming with the crosshairs on the center of the target I probably would have hit the chrono.

I was able to figure out that if I used the 4th dot down on the vertical post the shot would hit the center, so I moved the chrono into position and ran off about a half a mag, with all shots hitting where I wanted them.





I really enjoyed this little exercise and I'm sure I'll do a lot more of it in the future. The numbers I got were pretty much what I expected with two different weights of bullets in 9mm and just one in .223.

The 115 grain FMJ 9 mm rounds averaged 1109 which is right about the center between the published minimum and maximum. I thought they'd be closer to the bottom so I'll try reducing the charge a bit and see if they still cycle properly.

The 124 grain FMJ rounds in 9 mm came in at 1051 which is close to the minimum but cycled perfectly so I'll leave them alone.

The rifle rounds averaged 2847 which is real close to the bottom, but again they cycled without a hitch so I'll probably leave them alone too.

Comments or suggestions are welcome. My feelings aren't easily hurt so if you want to point out something I'm doing all wrong, please do so.

 

[rsrocket1]

Good job in not shooting your chrono (yet). At this time, it would be a good idea getting some "known" calibration points for the future. Hopefully you have a rimfire gun. Take some readings of its velocities and bring it along with you to use as a "test case". That way every time you go out and want to chrono your new loads, you can shoot a few rounds of cheap 22lr first to make sure the chrono is working and reading properly. Sometimes strange lighting conditions could give bad or no readings. You don't want to waste valuable centerfire rounds or worse yet, your test rounds trying to chase those problems. You can also use an airsoft/bb/pellet gun, anything with a known velocity and that shoots inexpensively.

 

[LeftyTSGC]

Good advice above, also make sure that you are consistent with your distance placement of the Chrono. If you do use a different distance, you will need to re-baseline your known loads for accuracy at all give distances used. I go out and shoot my reloads at various distances, but always make a baseline group to compare too. And as mentioned, lighting does affect your accuracy. Just be aware that the sun at different times does effect you readings if not aware.

 

[drband]

Even the best shooters sometimes throw a shot-- Please use a rest every time you shoot through a chrono! Pistol or rifle. (comment educated by experience!)

 

[TonyAngel]

Yes, a chrony is necessary equipment for any reloader that wants more than just ammo that goes boom. I usually place my chrony closer to my shooting position. It's hard to tell in the pic how close/far, you have your chrony set up. Just less chance of shooting your chrony. I don't know if you have your chrony set up at the target due to space constraints or if it's just ahead of your shooting position.

 

[PWC]

I know nothing about a chronograph, except generaly how they work. So, why would lighting affect readings? Is it like trying to tead your phone screen on dorect broght sunlight, or does light affect the screens sensing as the bullet passes thru the screens?

 

[gifbohane]

I have shot the metal shield supports at least a dozen times inside a year. If I aimed at these slender wire supports I could not hit them that frequently. Hit it the last time dead center on the display. I then gave up.

The advise you got to use a support was spot on. I did not.

 

[GHinNH]

I have a Pro Chrono DLX and am pretty happy with it. It will be seeing fairly constant use while I work on loads, and hopefully I won't turn it inside out for a good while just yet.

 

[GHinNH]

I know nothing about a chronograph, except generaly how they work. So, why would lighting affect readings? Is it like trying to tead your phone screen on dorect broght sunlight, or does light affect the screens sensing as the bullet passes thru the screens?

I'm not entirely sure how the really fancy ones work, but yes, the joe average ones like mine actually "see" the projectile passing over. So lighting will effect them. Occationally mine will miss a shot completely, but the rest of the time it works fine.

 

[PWC]

How sturdy are the screens? Couldthey support a light dark scarf?

 

[GHinNH]

How sturdy are the screens? Couldthey support a light dark scarf?

Yes, but I believe the best thing would be a thin, light colored sheet, or something that would allow a bright diffused light that is broadcast over the chrono. That would be draped over the top of the rods.
I have seen youtube videos of people using an pop up canopy tilted on its side into the sun. Direct sun that casts arbitrary shadows on the photo eyes seems to be the problem. I really can't comment for certain because I have only used mine a few times. I have always wanted one myself, so now I finally have one and I'm still learning the ropes.

 

[Dudedog]

Remember to be careful with scopes rifles, line of sight thru the scope and the bullet path may be different enough up close to = Chrono dead from lead poisoning.

 

[lordpaxman]

Before I got started I did some research and the one recurring theme I saw was "Don't shoot the chrono!".

Good job not shooting the chrono! I made a boo-boo plate for mine, so the plastic housing sits behind a nice thick piece of steel that’ll deflect an errant shot.
I’d also suggest you swap out the metal support rods for the screens for wooden dowels. Mine uses 1/8” dowels and they fit pretty well. If you hit a metal rod it might telegraph enough energy into the chrono to break a few things.
And I second the calibration ammo suggestion. Whether it’s .22 or just factory ammo in any caliber, it’ll help to qualify the session. Good luck!

 

[rsrocket1]

I know nothing about a chronograph, except generaly how they work. So, why would lighting affect readings? Is it like trying to read your phone screen on direct sunlight, or does light affect the screens sensing as the bullet passes thru the screens?

The basic light sensitive chronograph has single photosensors at the front up facing window and at the back facing window. They are receiving a steady source of light. When a bullet passes over it (or a wad, or a shockwave), the first sensor senses a dip in light signal. That starts a clock. When the rear sensor sees a dip in the light signal, it stops the clock and the space between sensors divided by the elapsed time gives the velocity. When the setting sun is shining into the sensor, it is overloaded and doesn't see the dip. The skyscreens diffuse the sunlight and makes for a nice uniform background which makes sensing the bullet easier. Sometimes you can get better readings by using bullets colored with black magic marker.

A shock wave from your gun or the gun at the next bench can trigger the front or rear sensor and that will give you either an error display or a false velocity. Our range has strobe lights that flash during a cease fire and that makes the chronograph crazy. The old range master always told me a story of some guy with a printing chronograph forgot to turn it off during a cease fire and came back with the roll of printout tape all used up. Indoors, you need a source of light so many manufacturers sell a strip of LED's that are constantly on behind the diffuser. Many indoor ranges use fluorescent light which also plays havoc on chronys so the light source must be stronger than the range lighting.

As for shooting the chrony, some people with welding skills weld a shield to protect the chrony. That works with a remote readout chrony but not with one with a display on the front. So far, by using rests, I've been lucky and have not shot out my chrony in a dozen+ years.

 

[jmorris]

You can get readings shooting a foot over the sensors, no reason to shoot right over them. I have 3 chronographs now and I have never shot one of them but I generally don't chronograph loads that are not accurate enough to be inside a 6 inch circle at the range I put my chronographs at. Even a bad shot won't hit "the guts".

Actually, I do have to admit to shooting one of them. Someone started a "how low can you go" thread awhile back and I went under 50 FPS on one shot then on the next one the pellet hit the table first, then bounced into the chronograph. Its still alive and well though.

On a cloudy day, you don't even need the screens, I just set the rifle on a tripod above the chronograph and go at that point.

 

[PWC]

RSrocket1- thank you for such a comprehensive explanation! Like a highspeed camera without a picture. Met my quota for today of learning something new.

 

[jmorris]

Depends on what chronograph but most do require light to work. Not only that but certain types of light are required for them.

They are in essence a stopwatch that starts when the bullet creates a shadow over the first sensor and stops when the shadow is over the 2nd, it then calculates how long it took the bullet to move the distance between the two and convert that to a FPS for the display.

If your in the dark, that style can"t see the bullets shadow because it doesn't exist. Further if you are using fluorescent light, that will also not work, because they are not continuously on. They cycle on and off really fast, so fast you can't tell (60Hz in the US) but a chronograph can.

There are chronographs that can be used in the dark though. Some of the first portable ones used sheets of foil that when hit by the bullet made contact starting/stopping the clock then you did the math based on the distance you had them apart, they are known as Aberdeen chronographs. Sounds like a PITA but they were an improvement over the Boulenge chronograph, that could also be used in the dark. The magneto speed, attaches to your barrel and detects the bullet upon exit without the need for light. The labradar uses a signal that bounces off the bullet then back to the chronograph as its going down range and performs the calculation on how long the signal takes to get back and the rate of change, that's the velocity. CED has infrared sky screes for their chronograph that actually works better in the dark than it does in light.

 

[Toprudder]

Even the best shooters sometimes throw a shot-- Please use a rest every time you shoot through a chrono! Pistol or rifle. (comment educated by experience!)

One day I was shooting across my chrony, checking some pistol loads, and pulled a shot. I knew I had done it, and fully expected to see a hole in my chrony, but somehow I missed it. After that, I started using a rest. The added benefit is that I could work on checking the accuracy of my loads at the same time, as the rest helped to take out the human part of the equation.

 

[drband]

One day I was shooting across my chrony, checking some pistol loads, and pulled a shot. I knew I had done it, and fully expected to see a hole in my chrony, but somehow I missed it. After that, I started using a rest. The added benefit is that I could work on checking the accuracy of my loads at the same time, as the rest helped to take out part of the human equation.

Shot my friend's ProChrono right through the face plate with a .44mag SBH! DOA of course... I bought him a new one (should have sent it in to CE for 1/2 price replacement--but I know better now).

Shortly afterward I bought a ProChronoDLX for myself. I NEVER shoot without a rest.

 

[nevadabob]

mmb617...Welcome to the Forum and congrats on your new toy. I bought mine a few years back and consider it an invaluable tool in the reloading arsenal. I love target shooting snubby revolvers and the reload data that I've come across is for longer barrel pistolas. My most recent acquisition is a Charter Arms Bulldog 45 Colt 2.5" revolver. My reload goal is to make tailor made bullets that focuses on accuracy and acceptable recoil. Making a round that pushes "high 600 fps to low 700 fps" achieves that. Having a chrono is a blessing!

 

[mmb617]

Hopefully you have a rimfire gun. Take some readings of its velocities and bring it along with you to use as a "test case". That way every time you go out and want to chrono your new loads, you can shoot a few rounds of cheap 22lr first to make sure the chrono is working and reading properly.

I do in fact have several rimfires, both pistols and rifles. I'd never thought about what you're talking about but it does make sense. Is it safe to assume that factory rimfire ammo is pretty consistent in velocity as long as I stay with one brand?

I usually place my chrony closer to my shooting position. It's hard to tell in the pic how close/far, you have your chrony set up. Just less chance of shooting your chrony. I don't know if you have your chrony set up at the target due to space constraints or if it's just ahead of your shooting position.

It is hard to tell distance from the picture. I had the front of the chrono 12 ft from where I was shooting and the target was only about 2 ft behind the chrono.

I have shot the metal shield supports at least a dozen times inside a year. If I aimed at these slender wire supports I could not hit them that frequently. Hit it the last time dead center on the display. I then gave up.

The advise you got to use a support was spot on. I did not.

I used a support for the rifle but not the pistol. I'll probably learn the hard way about that, but at least my chrono isn't a high end model. If I do shoot it I'll be out about $100 and will consider it my stupid tax.

Remember to be careful with scopes rifles, line of sight thru the scope and the bullet path may be different enough up close to = Chrono dead from lead poisoning.

I had read warnings about that so I was extra careful setting up for the rifle. Good thing as it was hitting way low at such a close distance, probably about 6 inches low. Which is why I experimented with the target before moving the chrono into place. I found that moving 4 dots down on the vertical post in the scope hit where I wanted. When I them moved the chrono into place every shot was hitting where it should.

Good job not shooting the chrono! I made a boo-boo plate for mine, so the plastic housing sits behind a nice thick piece of steel that’ll deflect an errant shot.
I’d also suggest you swap out the metal support rods for the screens for wooden dowels. Mine uses 1/8” dowels and they fit pretty well. If you hit a metal rod it might telegraph enough energy into the chrono to break a few things.
And I second the calibration ammo suggestion. Whether it’s .22 or just factory ammo in any caliber, it’ll help to qualify the session. Good luck!

I need to be able to see the readout on the front so I can't make a protective plate. It's supposed to be able to send the info remotely but I tried with both my tablet and my phone and couldn't get it to work with either. I kept getting cable connection error messages and no readings. It's probably because both my tablet and phone are ancient as electronics go. The digital readout is large and easy to see so I simply jotted down each reading with old school pen and paper.

The suggestion about using wooden dowels makes sense, as does the calibration ammo.

One day I was shooting across my chrony, checking some pistol loads, and pulled a shot. I knew I had done it, and fully expected to see a hole in my chrony, but somehow I missed it. After that, I started using a rest. The added benefit is that I could work on checking the accuracy of my loads at the same time, as the rest helped to take out the human part of the equation.

Enough people have mentioned using a rest even with the pistol that I think I better take heed. I've already got a table there for the rifle so it isn't going to be an inconvenience to use it for the pistol as well. Especially if I try it with some different guns that I'm not as accurate with as I am my EDC.

mmb617...Welcome to the Forum and congrats on your new toy.

Thank you all for making me feel welcome here!

 

[Dudedog]

It's supposed to be able to send the info remotely but I tried with both my tablet and my phone and couldn't get it to work with either. I kept getting cable connection error messages and no readings. It's probably because both my tablet and phone are ancient as electronics go

Is it a cabled connection or Bluetooth?
Lot of flavors of Bluetooth but I wouldn't think the chrono would only support the latest and greatest.
Most likely something simple might give their support a call.
8 times out of 10 with computers it can be some small setting that is keeping things from talking.

 

[Toprudder]

It's supposed to be able to send the info remotely but I tried with both my tablet and my phone and couldn't get it to work with either. I kept getting cable connection error messages and no readings. It's probably because both my tablet and phone are ancient as electronics go. The digital readout is large and easy to see so I simply jotted down each reading with old school pen and paper.

That looks like the Caldwell chrony. I have one, I first started using it with an old iPhone 4, now using it with a iPhone 6. With the old iPhone 4, I discovered a couple of bugs in the app, contacted Caldwell, and they sent out an upgrade to the app within a couple of weeks that fixed the bugs I reported. I would try contacting customer support.

 

[GHinNH]

I have the cheapest Android phone I could get from Tracfone, it was $50 I think, and got it at least 3 years ago. My laptop is a refurb HP Elitebook running Win7 Pro.
They both readily accepted the Apps and work flawlessly. I agree, it's probably just something simple like a bluetooth setting preventing the linkup.

 

[wild willy]

I’d also suggest you swap out the metal support rods for the screens for wooden dowels. Mine uses 1/8” dowels and they fit pretty well. If you hit a metal rod it might telegraph enough energy into the chrono to break a few things.

I don't know why they don't come with wood.