Flintlock Pistol Mainspring Compression?

[Honest John]

Last night I disassembled the lock of my Harper's Ferry pistol (Uberti replica, 1985). This has resulted in quite a learning experience. In particular, I can't compress the mainspring enough to get it back in the lock. The small c-clamp I am using slides off the spring instead of compressing it. How is compressing the mainspring accomplished?

 

[Jimster]

I use a specific mainspring clamp but before that I used a small vice grip. Be vewy vewy careful. Those suckers will snap.

 

[PRD1]

Mainspring clamps/vises are available from most of the blackpowder-specialist retailers. I have used a crescent wrench or small open-end wrench which fits snugly on the fully compressed spring for the purpose (on occasion, as I do have the proper clamps) by holding the hammer as far back as it will go (achieving maximum mainspring compression), then clamping the jaws of the wrench down snugly on the spring. You can also make a cramp by filing a notch of needed width and depth out of a piece of steel or brass of suitable size. If you release the pressure on the hammer, while keeping the wrench or cramp clamped on the spring, you will usually have enough freedom between the spring and the hammer/stirrup to permit removal of the spring. You will want to leave the spring in the wrench or cramp until re-assembly of the lock, unless you have the means to re-compress it and clamp it again before replacing it in the lock. The word of warning to be careful is correct: if you let the spring jump out of compression, it may break.

PRD1 - mhb - Mike

 

[Ephraim Kibbey]

Here are a couple of the less expensive choices:

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/list/Item.aspx/1038/1

https://www.jedediah-starr.com/closeup.asp?cid=90&pid=914&offset=0

but you can find them for lots more!

 

[Erwan]

It's really very simple to do...

Cock the hammer of the gun and the spring will be compressed, then put the right tool and adjust it firmly on the spring, let the hammer coming free (with the trigger), so you can manipulate the spring and remove it without any risk like spring broken or finger injury and put it back...

Note: the tool is not for compressing but to hold the spring compressed and if you want put it back don't separate the spring and the tool and it will go at the first time, after that and when the hammer is cocked you can remove the tool...

That's the right way to do, the name of that tool is wrong and this is not a compressor but a tool to maintain the springs...

You can also do this way with a little wrench or other tool to maintain the main spring of your lock, it is the same for all lock springs...

 

[Jimster]

I meant crescent wrench, not a vice grip. My bad.

 

[4v50 Gary]

You can place the spring in a copper padded vise and compress it, then place the lock over it and into place. Open the vise and you're done.

 

[Honest John]

Thanks for all the help. I hope it works when I get it put back together.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Did anything work?

 

[Honest John]

Thank you for asking. The specialized vise from Track Of The Wolf had the same problem as my c-clamp - instead of compressing the spring it squeezed it out to a point where sufficient compression did not occur. A small vise grip was successful in getting the spring back into the lock. But the original problem that compelled me to disassemble and clean the lock remains - the frizzen doesn't open all the way when struck.

 

[robhof]

Pull off the frizzen and polish the shaft that it rides on also gently polish the socket on the frizzen with a q tip and polishing compound, I used a drill to the q tip and worked it back and forth, clean with alcohol and grease with lithium grease before reassembly. Before doing all that, check that the frizzen isn't contacting the barrel or stock anywhere.

 

[BCRider]

....the frizzen doesn't open all the way when struck.

Does the frizzen snap open and closed easily and smoothly?

If the frizzen is working well and still won't fully open when struck it sort of points to the size or setting of the flint.

 

[4v50 Gary]

In the absence of a mainspring vise, you can use use a bench vise. Pad the jaws with copper or lead to prevent any scratching. Close the jaws to compress the spring with the stud up of course, place the lock over it and then open the vise.

 

[44 Dave]

I use a needle nose Vicegrip and pad the tips.

 

[Dog Soldier]

The frizzen hinge becomes fouled with carbon and rust. I always put a few drops of penetrating oil on the hinge pin. Make sure the flint is striking the frizzen about 3/4" high. Check to make sure the flint does not bottom on the pan or hit the barrel near the vent. Good Luck. Flint Lock shooters are special people.

 

[Panzerschwein]

While not a flintsman's lock, this capsman's lock Harpers Ferry pistol has a similar mainspring:

This is my .54 caliber U.S. horeseman's pistol.

 

[Honest John]

Thanks for all the help. I recalled that the frizzen action was rough, but when I tried it this weekend it was smooth, and opened completely six out of six times when struck.
It's nice to have gremlins FIX something for a change!