Over the years I've noticed that those who shoot revolvers well, shoot all types of handguns well.
Mastering a revolvers DA trigger pull will help you control.............just about anything else.
Amen...
-Jake
Over the years I've noticed that those who shoot revolvers well, shoot all types of handguns well.
Mastering a revolvers DA trigger pull will help you control.............just about anything else.
Holy thread revival, Batman.A few of things I was taught when we still had revolvers was when you go to empty it, face the muzzle up to let gravity aid and let your thumb slide off the ejector rod after fully depressing it to let it snap back up on it's own. It will positively eject all empty cases.
If loading single rounds, let the hand holding the revolver cup under the cylinder to catch any rounds you may drop.
Count your rounds as they go off.
Easy there, Gramps!Forgotten by whom? Youngsters who thing every firearm has to have plastic parts, perhaps? But older shooters haven't forgotten. Well, maybe they have just forgotten more than younger shooter will ever know.
Having read through another thread on this board, I see that there are some young revolver afficianados present here. In that thread I became aware that certain things I was taught as a young LEO, pertaining to fighting and prevailing with a six shot revolver, are evidently lost to the dustbin of history.
Well, I'm tired now and hungry so I will stop for now and if there is any interest I will try to return as I'm able and relate what little I still know. Best, TJ
Regarding partial reloads:
I was attending an excellent two-hour mini-class taught by Michael de Bethancourt at the Snubby Summit in 2005. On the range, during a stage that called for using Speed Strips, as he was talking us through the scenario, in which the attacker was advancing while we were reloading, I was the only one to load two, close the cylinder, and immediately fire those two rounds, while everyone else took much longer to completely reload their cylinders.
To be clear, Michael does, indeed, recommend carrying speedloaders; the object of the above-described exercise was to teach us to engage an opponent, even if one's cylinder is not full. Having used 2x2x2 carriers and Speed Strips for years beforehand, I was already quite familiar with the concept of tactical reloads and partial reloads.
A few of things I was taught when we still had revolvers was when you go to empty it, face the muzzle up to let gravity aid and let your thumb slide off the ejector rod after fully depressing it to let it snap back up on it's own. It will positively eject all empty cases...
Actually there is a correct way to do this and has been for years.This young guy who's been shooting a few years thinks he's discovered a way to defy the laws of physics with his 4 1/2 pound trigger.
Just for clarity, the extra power springs he uses is not the Mainspring but the Rebound spring. It allows the trigger to reset faster.This guy was also surprised to learn Miculek uses full power or extra power springs in his revolvers
Actually there is a correct way to do this and has been for years.
If you are an ICORE competitor, you'd know that there is only so much you can do with a S&W trigger. However you can step outside the box and go with a hammer from Apex Tactical Specialties. Apex has a trigger tune that the factory can't touch, because they are restricted to factory parts. Apex re-engineered the geometry of the hammer
Just for clarity, the extra power springs he uses is not the Mainspring but the Rebound spring. It allows the trigger to reset faster.
As it was explained to me, "The trigger should push your trigger forward to begin the next trigger stroke". Which is different than releasing the trigger and letting it catch up to your finger...as you do with a pistol
I must say I am astonished and quite pleased, that this thread is not only still going on, but that somany have benefitted from it! And some appear to have enjoyed it as well!I'm talking about a guy with a Dremel on his kitchen table. No Apex parts.
I agree with muzzle straight up. Ive found that a sharp slap to the extractor rod with the heel of the off hand gives the most positive extraction and seems to end up with less crud under the star over time. If the cases stick at all, the slap powers through it. I think its slightly slower than some methods, but very consistently effective. Shooting a lot of rimfire in Smiths started the habit. Chambers can get so cruddy the thumb has trouble pushing them out. Carrying it over to centerfire has given zero failures to extract on the first try since adopting it, even with really dirty guns.
Speaking of trigger stops, I remember a trick we used, shooting PPC back in the '70s. We'd take a small pencil eraser and glue it to the back side of the trigger about halfway to the trigger tip. When you pulled double action, the eraser would hit the inside rear of the trigger guard and stop the trigger short of the double action break. Then we'd take an emery board (fingernail file) and shave the eraser a little at a time, testing the trigger's double action break until we could rapidly pull the trigger back until the eraser stopped the trigger travel just before the break; then you'd squeeze just a little to compress the eraser and allow the trigger to break and drop the hammer. In some classes it wasn't allowed, but Service Revolver didn't disallow it. It allowed you to rapidly pull the trigger double-action, get it right to the break, then pause slightly while you steadied, and then fire. It felt like shooting single action without doing so.PPC shooters shoot only DA and keep all their shots within a coffee saucer or smaller out to fifty yards.
I've had a M19-2, a M66-2, and now have a M19-3, and don't see the trigger stop being spoken of. Is it behind the side plate? I never had an issue with any of the three K-frames I've owned doing this.
A great S&W smith, Tom Kilhoffer (TK Custom) taught me the trick of fitting a very short piece of surgical rubber or neoprene tubing over the tip of the OT screw. You could pull the cylinder right up to that point of contact on the rubber, hear the bolt drop in and just an ounce or two more and the hammer would fall. And it was pretty consistent from shot to shot. It really helped when mowing down a plate rack or a pin table. Once you got the hang of it - it's almost feels like cheating.