Form vs Function

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Your gun is a pretty extreme example, on which those Tamers are probably optimal. You can have prettier grips on guns that are better balanced, platform to caliber.

My issue is the single actions, on which I will take the traditional looking fancy grips over the finger groove rubber, even though the bigger magnums may require special gloves to shoot more than a cylinder or two. I would rather shoot the double action versions just to get the grips and the control. More experience as an alternative would help, I am sure.
Well, wearing gloves solely to withstand recoil is not my cup of tea.

Your point of my particular gun is well taken. I can shoot double or single action with 44 magnum loads without tiring, hurting, or needing gloves.

But I can see your point as to the variety of revolvers and how each platform may perform differently. My Alaskan is a heavy, built like a tank gun, which I'm sure helps with the recoil as well.
 
I have to agree since I ditched those horrible (for me) Hogue grips on my Ruger for the old style rubber with wood inserts because it fits my hand and allows for a deep in hand grip unlike those dang finger groove high back things that fit so few people. Fit is more important than material for me.;)
Where did you get the rubber grips with wood inserts? Are they like the grips that come with the Ruger SP101 models?
I wanted another revolver (just because) and was looking at Rugers - SP101 or GP100 in .357 Mag, or a Redhawk in 45 colt or 44 Mag.
I like the looks of the SP101 - have the .22 model. It has 5 rounds and is lighter. The GP100 is heavier, but 6 rounds.
The Redhawk is nice - like the shorter barrels - 4 to 6 inch - don't need a hunting gun, was considering for woods carry.
I'm shying away from 357 and 44 mags and more toward 45 Colt since I already have the loading dies for it. I'm not shy of recoil - have a Raging Bull in .454 Casull.
What's your experience with the 45 Colt loads? I like heavy loads.
 
While I have never been a snob about the material my grips are made out of, I do tend to prefer smaller grips for carry guns. However, I also don't spend much on custom wood grips either. For me, the Pachmayr compact grip is the bee's knees for my SP101 even if I prefer the looks of the stock grip with some gorgeous inserts a friend of mine gave me.

I'm also not a big fan of the looks of the chunky mono-grip on the GP100. For me, they are overkill. If I can shoot 158gr .357 out of a little SP101 all day with the factory grips, I don't see the need for gigantic grips on an even heavier and longer gun. That said, the big ol' honkin' grips are super comfy to shoot.

If Ruger wasn't so proud of their rubber with insert set up for the GP100 (like $43 for a 9 dollar grip with two little bitty pieces of basic rosewood), I'd order up that grip for carry. Actually, you could keep the rosewood. Just gimme the grip with a couple of basic black Ruger-Ribbed inserts, and I'll be happy:neener:

I really like the GP100 and stock grip IS comfy, but it's so big it affect how I carry the hand canon.
 
Why do you assume that they are giving up function to have beautiful grips???

You're assuming wrong. I am primarily a revolver shooter and I shoot, A LOT. That said, nearly every one of my four dozen revolvers has custom grips. The only one that wears rubber is my Super Redhawk and that's only because it would cost about $500 to have a comfortable set of grips made. Beauty is a big factor but the primary factor is COMFORT. It is entirely misconception that only rubber grips are comfortable for shooting. The primary factor in comfort is not material. It's fit. The grips must fit the gun but they must also fit YOU. The grips pictured below are beautiful but they're also infinitely more comfortable than anything rubber. Both Hogue and Pachmayr grips are too thin and Hogue's have that awful palm swell. No sir, you're kidding yourself if you think that properly fitted, properly shaped custom grips are sacrificing comfort for beauty.

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That wood doesn't get slippery if your hands sweat?
 
I'll also sing praises for the Hogue Tamer grip. I bought a new Ruger GP100, and I immediately disliked the too-skinny Hogue Monogrip that came from the factory. Fortunately, from shooting a friend's Super Redhawk, I knew I would like the Tamer, and I knew both the Super Redhawk and GP100 take the exact same grips. I picked up the Tamer and couldn't be happier. I like the shock-absorbing closed backstrap, which is quite a contrast to getting pounded by the steel backstrap of most revolvers. Like many, I've never found a set of wood grips that come even close to the comfort level of hand-filling rubber grips.
 
minutemen, I couldn't agree more. I can't imagine shooting my .44 magnum for any length of time with the wood grips pictured right above this post. They will not only get slippery when wet (even just from hand sweat) but they provide no recoil absorption whatsoever. It's up to your wrist to do that.

I love beautiful wood grips as much as the next guy, but for the heavier magnum calibers, I have yet to try any wood grips that are more comfortable to shoot than the Tamers.
 
Speaking for myself, and then generally, I want to learn to shoot the gun rather than make the gun suit my failure to adapt. When it comes to cowboy style guns, I like to see and am definitely shooting that style grip, not some rubber cushion that is not remotely period correct.

My SAA guns include two Sauer/Hawes 44 Magnum 6" guns. I shoot 41 Magnum SA in my Ruger Flat Top, on which a slightly short grip is another factor to which I have to adapt.

I am a pretty good shot at 50 feet with the Sauer 44 Mag, but after one cylinder of 240 gr bullets and 20.7 grains of 300-MP, I am ready for my glove, and then only for one more cylinder. Last Saturday, out of 12 shots, I had 8 in one cloverleaf hole (at 7 o'clock). I just let the gun roll and don't fight it. Seems to work. That is enough shooting because I shoot the big guns last during one range trip with various guns, shooting light to heavy
 
Speaking for myself, and then generally, I want to learn to shoot the gun rather than make the gun suit my failure to adapt. When it comes to cowboy style guns, I like to see and am definitely shooting that style grip, not some rubber cushion that is not remotely period correct.

My SAA guns include two Sauer/Hawes 44 Magnum 6" guns. I shoot 41 Magnum SA in my Ruger Flat Top, on which a slightly short grip is another factor to which I have to adapt.

I am a pretty good shot at 50 feet with the Sauer 44 Mag, but after one cylinder of 240 gr bullets and 20.7 grains of 300-MP, I am ready for my glove, and then only for one more cylinder. Last Saturday, out of 12 shots, I had 8 in one cloverleaf hole (at 7 o'clock). I just let the gun roll and don't fight it. Seems to work. That is enough shooting because I shoot the big guns last during one range trip with various guns, shooting light to heavy
The "rubber cushion" on the Ruger I own IS that gun, and not an adaptation. It comes from the factory that way, for a reason. Putting on a non-stock wood grip would be an adaptation.
 
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They will not only get slippery when wet (even just from hand sweat) but they provide no recoil absorption whatsoever. It's up to your wrist to do that.
Nonsense. The comfort comes from proper fit and spreading the recoil throughout the palm, not silly rubber "cushion". Recoil should be absorbed by the hands, wrists and elbows. No, they don't get slippery and they don't rub the skin off you hands the way rubber does. Rubber is a crutch, a bandaid for poorly fitting grips.


I have yet to try any wood grips that are more comfortable to shoot than the Tamers.
And what grips have you tried, specifically? I've been shooting the .44Mag for 25yrs and keep a Dillon 650 going to keep me supplied with ammo. I have tried virtually every factory and aftermarket grip available and nothing comes close to those pictured above.
 
Nonsense. The comfort comes from proper fit and spreading the recoil throughout the palm, not silly rubber "cushion". Recoil should be absorbed by the hands, wrists and elbows. No, they don't get slippery and they don't rub the skin off you hands the way rubber does. Rubber is a crutch, a bandaid for poorly fitting grips.
Craig is exactly correct. All of my revolvers get Nill grips because they make models that fit my hand properly.

Look at it this way. If you take a rubber mallet and slap your hand a little bit, it would probably hurt a little less than using a a wooden or metal mallet. The rubber of the mallet, and the grip, gives a little and thus stings a bit less. However, if you put the mallet of any kind in your hand and then push with an equal force, it won't hurt at all. That's Craig's point. The rubber grips are giving a little and transferring less recoil to your hand when they rattle around in your hand. However a wood grip that is properly fitted to your hand won't rattle around at all, it just pushes into your hands rather than slapping you. There is no impact to your hand to be absorbed. The recoil is transferred to your arms as it is meant to be.

Here's an example. I had Altamont grips on my 686+. They were way to thin for my hands. So, I got some Badger finger grooved grips. They left the backstrap open as many grips for an L frame do. Well, in order to get a firm grip and have a proper trigger reach, the backstrap was not firmly planted in the web of my hand. As a result, when I pulled the trigger, the grip slapped my hand pretty hard and was no fun to shoot, and follow up shots were really slow.

Then I put a closed blackstrap walnut grip on. The web of my hand sits firmly on the grip, my trigger reach is appropriate, and I'm able to keep a firm grip on the gun. As a result, the gun doesn't hurt me anymore, and I can shoot the gun much faster.

On the other side of it, my 460 mag wears a Hogue Deceleratir grip as all stock X-frames come with. I shoot that gun well because the grip happens to fit me well. It may be the same with your Alaskan. I doubt though if I were to put wood grips properly fitted to my hand on my 460 that I'd feel much difference.

It isn't about using a material that absorbed the impact between your hand and the grip or disperses recoil energy, it's about having a grip that doesn't move around in your hand so that recoil is transferred properly to your arms. When grips really fit you well, the material doesn't need to be terribly pliable. It just needs to be flexible enough to avoid cracking from the vibration of the gun, like wood.

As far as slippery from hand sweat, that's a negatory. With a good firm grip, finely finished wood is very easily held onto. I prefer stippled grips, but I have boney fingers so it helps me keep the gun in place.
 
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However a wood grip that is properly fitted to your hand won't rattle around at all, it just pushes into your hands rather than slapping you. There is no impact to your hand to be absorbed. The recoil is transferred to your arms as it is meant to be.
Exactly! It's the negative space between your hand and the grip that causes pain. Which is why the Hogue's killed me on the .480. A properly fitted grip will fill those voids and increase the contact surface between your hand and the gun.

Works with everything else. The Glock has flat sides and leaves voids between it and my palm. A 1911 is more comfortable to me because it has rounded grip panels that fill the voids in my palm.

Another case in point, you NEVER see a custom Ruger Bisley .475 or .500 with rubber grips. These guns, for their weight, produce the most recoil you are likely to find in a handgun. However, they are ALWAYS fitted with grips of wood, ivory or micarta. IMHO, Jack Huntington builds the best single action grips I've ever used. He's a talented gunsmith but his grips are better than most gripmakers. He makes them to fill the hand. I shot one of his .500Linebaugh Maximums with 525's at 1250fps and it was infinitely more comfortable than my .480 shooting 355's at 1350fps. Why? It's the grips. If you removed his fancy French walnut grips and replaced them with factory rosewood, it would pound you into submission in two or three shots. Same if you swapped the grip frame for a Super Blackhawk and put rubber Hogue's on it. I guarantee you wouldn't shoot it more than once. With his Bisley grips, I see no problem with a 50rd session. Your hand would be fatigued but the Hogue's would hurt you if you tried to make it through 50rds. When the time came to decide what to do for grips on the .500 Jack is building for me, the answer was easy and it didn't involve recycled condoms. :neener:

The only reason we have to have this discussion is because Hogue's are $20 but Jack's custom grips are $300.

Here's a similar .500Max:
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The trouble with the factory GP100 Hogues is they fit so few people, Surprised Ruger went with those finger grooves. I could shoot it ok but, my wife got her hand pounded by that silly palm hump on the back. So, I got a set of tamers cause they were cheap and took those off for the same issues. Settled on the old style rubber with the wood inserts and we can both shoot it so much better even with the BB 180's. The shape allows me a full proper revolver grip and pushes on the whole of my palm instead of that pain point on the Hogues but, if they fit you that's great. They do not fit most hands.
 
I love beautiful wood grips as much as the next guy, but for the heavier magnum calibers, I have yet to try any wood grips that are more comfortable to shoot than the Tamers.

If that is true, it may simply be that the Tamers fit your particular hand really well. Or it's that you've never really shot s heavy recoiling gun with wood grips that fit you. Wood grips that don't fit your hand hurt badly! I consider myself fortunate that I can get away with Nills as I don't have the money for truly customized grips.
 
Works with everything else. The Glock has flat sides and leaves voids between it and my palm. A 1911 is more comfortable to me because it has rounded grip panels that fill the voids in my palm.

Same here. 1911's work for me, and a lot of Sigs do too. My HK 45 fits me alright, but a wider grip would work better. This is why I really want a VP9 and VP45 when it is released. I suspect the interchangeable side panels will make the gun a pleasure to shoot.

A Glock feels like holding a tree branch with a knot or burls digging into the bottom of my hand.
The only reason we have to have this discussion is because Hogue's are $20 but Jack's custom grips are $300.

Yep. If custom fit wood grips were $100, I suspect Hogue and Pachymar would take a real dive in sales.
 
Well, we can agree to disagree. With the factory installed Tamers, I can (and just did last week) shoot a full hour of 44 magnum loads and I was comfortable thereafter. I have never been able to do that with wood grips. Period. And yes, I have owned wood grips and have shot plenty of high recoil revolvers.

I think my point can be made in Craigs statement above. "The comfort comes from proper fit and spreading the recoil throughout the palm " Personally, I welcome a grip that takes some of the recoil and leaves the rest to my palm. Why do so many people use recoil reducer pads on a shotgun? Because they would rather not "spread the recoil throughout the shoulder".

Here's another way to look at it. 460Kodiak said he's looking forward to the VP9/VP45 due to the comfortable grips. I agree on this, as my VP9 is probably the most comfortably gripped handguns I've ever used. But if you asked me to swap out the Tamer on my 44 mag for the VP9 grip, would I do it? Hell no. Despite its comfort, it would do nothing for recoil, which is ok on a 9mm but not ok for the 44 mag.

But its not worth arguing about. As I stated by opening this thread, for me, wood grips come with sacrifices. If that's not true for others, that's great. Just like the guns themselves, different models fit different people.
 
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DPO3 - The "rubber cushion" on the Ruger I own IS that gun, and not an adaption. It comes from the factory that way, for a reason. Putting on a non-stock wood grip would be an adaption.
- ed. "adaptation"

Appreciate that a clear distinction should be made for single action preferences. On a double action I don't usually stay with original grips, improving fit and appearance together. Sometimes I prefer nylon or rubber, based somewhat on what is available and what I care to invest. I have only one custom set (by Herrett) and then only made to "minimum dimensions" for my Security Six.

I am stuck with what I have with Interarms Rossis and Sauer/Hawes. My 4" Ruger Redhawk 45 Colt suits me best with the original rubber. My Smith 629 Classic seems best for me so far with Pachmayr Diamond Pro (rubber). I work the spectrum, except historical style single actions have period correct, wooden grips, typically original or an upgrade by Ruger.

If I was going to spend less on additional guns or repairing these adoptions, I might do more in custom grips. I love nice wood and superior crafting. Custom fitting would be nice too.
 
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CraigC - Exactly! It's the negative space between your hand and the grip that causes pain. Which is why the Hogue's killed me on the .480. A properly fitted grip will fill those voids and increase the contact surface between your hand and the gun.

Works with everything else. The Glock has flat sides and leaves voids between it and my palm. A 1911 is more comfortable to me because it has rounded grip panels that fill the voids in my palm. <snip>

A double stack Glock and a single stack 1911 seems an odd comparison. For me, the Glock fills my hand just trying to reach the trigger. It shoots great. Ones take on this would surely vary by hand size. Mine are smallish, so my 4" Kimber with Officer's grip seems a good fit, while my Glock 22 is accessorized with night sights, light, and laser as a bedroom gun, strictly functional.
 
Geez. Wood versus rubber grips seems to be about as contentious as 9mm versus .45.

The only reason we have to have this discussion is because Hogue's are $20 but Jack's custom grips are $300.

I guess this is the crux of it. It often seems that those who buy the high-dollar stuff have to convince everyone else that it's the absolute best. Perhaps it is, but it won't pass the cost-benefit analysis for most of us. I'm tickled to have a $20 grip that looks good, fits my hand, mitigates recoil, and allows me to shoot accurately. It is not silly, and it is not a crutch or a condom. It is the grip on my gun, and I like it a great deal.
 
With the factory installed Tamers, I can (and just did last week) shoot a full hour of 44 magnum loads and I was comfortable thereafter.
I guarantee you the biggest difference with the Tamer grip is the shape, not the material. Put the regular rubber monogrip on there and you will change your tune. Why, it's the same material? The difference is the shape. The Tamer is a thicker grip.


And yes, I have owned wood grips and have shot plenty of high recoil revolvers.
And I ask again, what wood grips???


Perhaps it is, but it won't pass the cost-benefit analysis for most of us.
Perhaps ignorance is bliss. This is no different from any other custom work. As long as you never shoot a revolver with a tuned action, you'll never know what you're missing. If more people knew how good custom grips or tuned actions were, more people would have them and they would be better shooters because of it.
 
Lemme try getting this back on track by summarizing & clarifying:

The OP asked how much function folks are willing to give up for beautiful grips. It doesn't necessarily mean that you will give up function with any (and all) beautiful grip(s), though it'd be easy to read that into it.

Some haven't yet found pretty wood grips that're functional enough for them, and are happy with their rubber grips intead. Others, such as CraigC, have, and offered that it's possible to have form and function, but...1) they have to be well-designed, and 2)"pretty" doesn't automatically mean "well-designed", so choose carefully and don't make general assumptions on "functional" and "well-designed" based on solely on "pretty".

Hopefully, that's the synopsis so far. With it, I think we can re-visit the spirit of the OP's inquiry: To what extent would you go for both form and function? Just slap any ol' rubber on there and call it good (one extreme) or continue trying pretty wood grips (even custom) until you found "the one" (other extreme)?
 
Of course shape matters, and the monogrip vs tamer is a good example. But the other BIG element with the tamer is the soft recoil spot where the web of the hand meets the grip. You can push it in with your finger. And I would ask you to revisit my shotgun example. Would you REALLY be as comfortable with a straight wood stock vs one that has a rubber pad on it? If so, you might be the first.

Anyway, I think we've beat this horse pretty good.

To answer your other question, the wood grip revolvers I've shot include a variety of brands. I owned a GP100 in rubber, and my friend with one in wood. While the monogrip isn't ideal IMO, we both preferred the rubber when it came to comfort with the mag loads. Of course, his looked better. And I won't hide the fact that I've never shot a $300 custom wood grip. When I started the thread, I thought by comparing my stock rubber grip that folks would compare with factory wood grips.

Craig, I have no doubt that you're not just sticking up for the money you've spent. The wood works better for you. Rubber for me. And I am not in the minority. There are tons of posts around firearm boards where folks have switched to the tamer after shooting it.

Everybody is different.
 
I'm a big fan of the factory Target stocks on k and N frame S&W's. They can look very good.

I'm also a fan of factory Magna's and a T grip.

I've also got a wood griped Blackhawk in 41mag.

I've got Houge Decelerators on a 629 and a 500.

My favorite though is some nice Arhdends. They're not terribly expensive and are much nicer than the grips I've bought through Altamont (although those are pretty!). The 629-6 will get some Arhdends Smooth Targets when funds allow.
 
I'm a big fan of the factory Target stocks on k and N frame S&W's. They can look very good.

I'm also a fan of factory Magna's and a T grip.

I've also got a wood griped Blackhawk in 41mag.

I've got Houge Decelerators on a 629 and a 500.

My favorite though is some nice Arhdends. They're not terribly expensive and are much nicer than the grips I've bought through Altamont (although those are pretty!). The 629-6 will get some Arhdends Smooth Targets when funds allow.
Like you, I am also a fan of the factory "K" and "N" factory targets grips. There is plenty of wood on those to shape them to fit my hand. My hand prefers grips that are smaller at the base than come on most factory grips, almost a reverse taper. I take factory grips and cut them even with the bottom of the frame and then thin them to fit my hand. I also bed them to the grip frame so there is not movement while I shoot. I do this on my competition revolvers, they may not be pretty, but they work.

On my carry revolvers, the magnas and grip adapter are very acceptable duplication of my modified factories.

Kevin
 
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