FP-10 vs Break Free CLP

[D.B. Cooper]

In terms of lubrication, what, if any, is the difference between Shooter's Choice FP-10 Elite Lubricant and old school Break Free CLP?

I just bought some FP-10 to use as a lube on my autoloaders because a.) I was looking for a lubricant that wouldn't freeze up in cold temps. (I'm talking at or below zero Fahrenheit.) and b.) I read some reports on the internet (so they must be true) that FP-10 will not gel down to -50˚F.

I used it for the first time after cleaning a gun tonight. This stuff looks exactly like Break Free CLP. (Which is a great cleaner but not so much as a cold weather lubricant.)

Does anyone have any knowledge of how these two differ, or has used both and can make a comparison? I'd hate to need a gun this winter and the slide sticks out of battery because the lubricant is solid as a rock; on the flip side, I know these guns need to be kept "wet."

 

[Ru4real]

Of the two, my preference is for CLP. The film layer on a slide is microscopic and I’ve never had or heard of one freezing. I think the bigger concern is the trigger group - springs, pins, holes, etc.

For trigger groups specifically, to keep those from freezing in cold temps, lubricate with a very light oil and then blow “dry” with compressed or canned air. You are really only blowing out any lube that may have pooled up in a hole or recess area in the trigger group. For superior light oil, trigger group, a couple drops of Tri-flow is best, in my opinion. My 2oz bottle is going on 10 years, used in this manor.


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[JDeere]

Just like all things firearm related you will get differing opinions. Especially with the latest and greatest because after all it's on the internet so it must be true. That being said I have been using Break Free CLP for ever with no issues.

 

[Blue68f100]

Most any 100% syn lube should work at the extreme cold. I've used both and prefer FP10 over CLP. CLP I think is better for wiping down the firearm to leave a protective coating. I've switched over to Amsoil Firearm Lubricant and Protection. It's slicker than anything else I've tried. Another good option is Amsoil Syn ATF which has a pour point around -60F.

 

[Project355]

I wonder sometimes, why folks consider "one lubricant" for arms.

In my truck, I run 90wt sulphated hypoid gear oil in the differential, Mercon-V in its manual transmission, 10w-30 full synth in the engine, and heavy grease on the ball joints, universal and other linkages. Each lubricant has different properties and is applied in different places depending on many factors. One vehicle, many lubricants.

In small arms, consider various stress conditions for the parts. Would you want the same lubricant on the pivot of a 1911 sear, as is used for its lower locking lug on the barrel? The same for its bushing area as where the hammer strut meets the mainspring cap?

Just something to consider.....

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Most any 100% syn lube should work at the extreme cold. I've used both and prefer FP10 over CLP. CLP I think is better for wiping down the firearm to leave a protective coating. I've switched over to Amsoil Firearm Lubricant and Protection. It's slicker than anything else I've tried. Another good option is Amsoil Syn ATF which has a pour point around -60F.

CLP is a really good cleaner, especially for the face of revolver cylinders and forcing cones. It seems far too thick/viscous to be a good lubricant in cold weather. But I finally bought a quart bottle of it, just for cleaning. It has replaced my B-C Bore Scrubber (which replaced Hoppe's). Only trick is, I have to spray everything down with B-C Gun Scrubber (i.e. expensive brake cleaner) to get it all off before I put on the lubrication.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Well. I found this https://www.parttarget.com/9150-01-...09.html/-6FCDFB50-2E67-4A94-8320-318951587C34

Based on Break Free's Military NSN, this shows a pour point of -74˚F and an operating temp range of -65˚F to 150˚F.

Guess I should have done a few more minutes of research. Although, it was @Blue68f100 mentioning of Amsoil's pour point that sent me off looking for CLP's pour point.

 

[12Bravo20]

Just like all things firearm related you will get differing opinions. Especially with the latest and greatest because after all it's on the internet so it must be true. That being said I have been using Break Free CLP for ever with no issues.

I've been using Break Free CLP since 1989 when Uncle introduced me to it. Is there better stuff out there, I'm sure there is. Break Free CLP has worked for me over the last 31 years in every type of environment that I was sent to, from Arctic Training to the jungles of Central America, the Middle East, and all over Europe.

 

[swingmaster]

CLP, LSA (from the Army days), Hoppes... and lately mineral oil. have you guys watched any of this man’s youtubes? Pretty informative, IMO.

 

[David Hoback]

My firearms are all custom built... with my hand...Nothings to good! So I will use ONLY “Unicorn testicular grease”! IMHO, it’s the top of the line. Even better than Chuck Norris’ “Prostate Punch” oil.

Aye-vey..Why do the “which oil is better-er-ist” threads continue? Guys! It’s steel, aluminum, polymer. You can use CLP, FP10....any one of the countless other brands, motor oil(standard or synthetic). Hell, olive oil or Crisco even! Any of ‘em will do the deed. I’m not sure what people “think” one brand is going to do differently?? But I’ll let ya’s in on a secret. It doesn’t do anything brand XYZ, LGBTQ-GOO, won’t do!

LOL! I’m just having a go. I mean, what I said IS the truth, but it goes beyond that. It’s actually a very personal thing. As firearms enthusiasts, it’s quite easy to become incredibly Brand Loyal. And with cleaning & maintenance, it’s much the same as race car enthusiasts. The cleaning & “oil” choice can become a religious detail. We strive for the best. Then, when we find a brand we like, honestly due to brand familiarity or even attraction to the packaging of the product, we will typically fight with a passion to defend our choice. I won’t lie, there was a time I to had my favorite brand. Even now I do, although for more realistic a reason than my perception performance. I use Lucas gun oil because it’s cheap & I always trusted Lucas products. Yup! I was a car guy. Professionally, I was a Master Auto Tech. And for many years, I built hi performance, turbo’d engines & I raced. Remember my point?

Really though, it’s all good. TRUST in a product is a great thing. Even something as simple as gun oil can give the user an added pleasurable experience with the hobby. I guess...in a way, one might consider that a higher performance.

 

[swingmaster]

Too many smilies...you’re breaking the internets.

 

[DT Guy]

I use the most heavily researched, funded and tested synthetic oil on the planet- Mobil 1 in 0-40Wt. I buy little squeeze bottles with needle tips and stash them in range bags, gun cases, cleaning kits. I also have small tubs of Mobil 1 grease, and mixtures (oil and grease, thoroughly mixed) of hybrid oil/grease from both.

I've never had a lubricant related malfunction, and I'm still on my first quart of Mobil 1.

I'd gladly pay more for better oil; as soon as someone runs 'Bob's Goofy Specialty Oil Made in His Kitchen' in his Formula 1 car, or does 50K miles in something like my 11K RPM motorcycle engine with it, I'll check it out.

Larry

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Hell, olive oil or Crisco even! Any of ‘em will do the deed.

I call BS on that.

I also have small tubs of Mobil 1 grease,

I've never had a lubricant related malfunction, and I'm still on my first quart of Mobil 1.

Yeah, well, I put Mobil 1 synthetic grease on the op-rod track of my M1 Garand, and at 10˚F, it stopped working completely.

It was that experience that prompted me to make sure I had a lubricant that would stay wet well below freezing. I bought some F10, and when I put it on a gun, it seemed to be exactly like CLP, so that's why I asked the question.

It had nothing to do with which is better. All I asked was "how are they different?" (Apparently, they aren't different at all.)

 

[D.B. Cooper]

have you guys watched any of this man’s youtubes? Pretty informative, IMO.

Gunblue runs a great channel. Plus, I have that exact. same. flannel shirt. (Made in America, baby!)

 

[rdnktrkr]

When I clean my guns, I use Eds red in an ultrasonic cleaner and then wipe everything down with a microfiber rag and reassemble, if I oil anything I use 0w synthetic motor oil and I've never had a lube problem but usually when temps are 0 and below I stay by the fire, I like to run a patch with Motorkote through the barrel as a last step.

 

[BBBBill]

An experiment by Ned Christiansen, a well known gunsmith and trainer - http://forum.ltwguns.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9536&p=65371&hilit=lube#p65371

 

[DT Guy]

I call BS on that.



Yeah, well, I put Mobil 1 synthetic grease on the op-rod track of my M1 Garand, and at 10˚F, it stopped working completely.

It was that experience that prompted me to make sure I had a lubricant that would stay wet well below freezing. I bought some F10, and when I put it on a gun, it seemed to be exactly like CLP, so that's why I asked the question.

It had nothing to do with which is better. All I asked was "how are they different?" (Apparently, they aren't different at all.)

I haven't experienced that, and note that the spec sheet for Mobil 1 synthetic grease lists its operating temperature to -40C. Did you see what happened to the lube directly?

Larry

 

[12Bravo20]

I had an issue where my M16A1 froze up once during below freezing temps. I was a young private at the time and was keeping my rifle inside the fart sack with me. Getting in and out of my sleeping bag through out the day and night caused the issues. It was the hot/cold cycles that caused the weapon to freeze up. I could not blame it on the use of Break Free CLP. You learn (sometimes the hard way) not to do stupid things like that.

And I have to agree with others about arguing over which lube is better. It is no different than asking what brand oil to use in your vehicle or the whole Mossberg 500 vs Remington 870 argument or the Ford vs Chevy thing. Read the labels and makes sure the product will do what you want in the temps/environments you will be in. You don't need the latest and greatest high speed-low drag whiz bang best new thing since sliced bread over priced lube for your firearms.

Now is Break Free CLP, or any CLP the best for everything, no it probably isn't. Does it work in a wide variety of environments with extreme temp shifts, yes it does. In the end, use what you like and what works the best for you. There really is no need to argue about it.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

It is no different than asking what brand oil to use in your vehicle or the whole Mossberg 500 vs Remington 870 argument or the Ford vs Chevy thing.

Well duh. Amsoil. Winchester Model 12. GMC Square Body. smh. Some people's kids, I swear. =)

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

My suggestion is Aeroshell 22 or Aeroshell 6. Both are aircraft grease and are made specifically for a wide variety of temperature changes. I have not looked up temperature specs but these are used on flying machines that routinely go into sub zero conditions with no freeze up problems. A tube will most likely last half of forever.

 

[mjsdwash]

i cant speak to PF-10, but I do like CLP, thou I don't use it anymore due to cost -very high year around humidity means lots of oil.
I answered to say, while I don't know about freeze temps on those products, I have spent some time in -40°, not quite -50, but very close. At those temps, 10W30 motor oil in the cars never froze. Never even got gelatinous, so if you need a lube in that temp before you find your answer, I can tell you that SAE standard oil works.

 

[David Hoback]

Yes, any type of machine oil, grease will work as good as the other. The only way to gage “the best” is in terms of longevity...which means leaving it on, & not cleaning UNTIL a problem. At which point the length of of time is recorded & compared to other lubricants times.

Now, if you are one to do this, than I feel bad for your firearms. People like this do not take care of their property. Or possibly those with more money than sense, who will just buy new one. I clean my firearms & re-oil after use.

I do need to comment on an oddity. What’s with people mixing two different products together? Like mixing 50/50 ATF & Synthetic oil?? I’ve seen that so many times...Honestly! What do you think is accomplished by doing this?? Is someone REALLY going to say that they have done the research & testing, to claim that a 50/50 mix ATF/oil works better than just using one or the other? Once again...it all works! You do my t gain or lose anything by using one product over another. Pick your favorite flavor, name, packaging, color...whatever!

 

[JTQ]

CLP is a really good cleaner, especially for the face of revolver cylinders and forcing cones. It seems far too thick/viscous to be a good lubricant in cold weather.

I don't have any experience with the current formulation, but the original formulation of BreakFree CLP is the thinnest lubricant I have, outside of aerosol products.

But I finally bought a quart bottle of it, just for cleaning. It has replaced my B-C Bore Scrubber (which replaced Hoppe's). Only trick is, I have to spray everything down with B-C Gun Scrubber (i.e. expensive brake cleaner) to get it all off before I put on the lubrication.

Why are you degreasing the CLP off your gun after cleaning? The point of a CLP is it Cleans, Lubricates, and Protects. When you degrease the gun of a CLP, you are decreasing the function of the product.


Regarding the initial post

I just bought some FP-10 ...This stuff looks exactly like Break Free CLP. ...Does anyone have any knowledge of how these two differ...

They are both CLP's, but they don't have a familial history. However, FP-10 and Weapon Shield (another CLP) were created by the same guy, so they may have some similarities.

 

[JTQ]

Here's a Brownell's video on cold weather lubrication

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Why are you degreasing the CLP off your gun after cleaning? The point of a CLP is it Cleans, Lubricates, and Protects. When you degrease the gun of a CLP, you are decreasing the function of the product.

Because the CLP left on the gun has a lot of unburned powder and lead suspended in it that creates and leaves a gritty milkshake substance on the gun. So I clean it all off and then reapply the CLP (or other lubricant).