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FTF in GP100....spring too light ?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by MIL-DOT, Dec 7, 2010.

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  1. MIL-DOT

    MIL-DOT member

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    I've had a stainless 6" GP100 for a couple years now, probably my favorite pistol. But a couple weekends ago, me and a buddy had two or three rounds not fire ( they fired OK on the 2nd try). These were Remington UMC from the wally world, first I've fired any Remmys through it ( mostly been Winchester & S&B ). Obviously, I'm considering it ammo related, but this pistol has a very light trigger, both single and DA. In fact, it's not uncommon for whoever fires it (me included) to prematurely send the first round downrange while sighting in, but once used to it, everyone loves it.
    But my SP101 was so tight, I got a Wolff spring replacement kit and lightened the hammer spring. I'm wondering if I might should do the opposite with the GP100, and tighten it up a bit.
    I'm also wonder, since they appear almost identical internaly,if I could use one of the springs from the SP101 kit ?
    Any advice much appreciated...........
     
  2. WNC Seabee

    WNC Seabee Member

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    The SP and the GP share the same design, but not the same parts. The GP springs are scaled up relative to the SP.

    I have installed the Wolff springs in both my SP and GP with terrific results. I would not hesitate to get the Wolff kit for your GP. If I recall correctly, the 10# spring gave the best results for me in the GP.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2010
  3. BCRider

    BCRider Member

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    Old oil in the hammer to frame fit can gum up over a couple of years. When it does it adds viscous drag that you won't feel when cocking the gun or during the DA pull but it will slow down the fall of the hammer. If it used to work OK my suggestion would be to flush it out with brake cleaner and then use a light oil on the works or to flush it out with Ed's Red mix which will both clean and leave a light film of oil behind as lubricant.

    Or it may be just the ammo. But if it's been a few years then treating the innards to some cleaning and light lubrication would sure be a timely thing to do.
     
  4. Dan-O

    Dan-O Member

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    I would buy the shooter pack from Wolff. I had light strikes with the 9lb, but the 10lb has been money, even using my re-loads with cci primers which are really hard anyways. The shooters pack has a 9, 10, and 12lb spring.
     
  5. GP100man

    GP100man Member

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    MIL-Dot

    I bet ya can push the hammer off to ????

    If ya can it`s time for a new hammer or trigger or both !!!!

    The only way to get a new trigger & hammer is to send it to Ruger !
     
  6. MIL-DOT

    MIL-DOT member

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    Many thanks for the good info and advice,everyone. I bought the gun new only two years ago, and it's only had a few hundred rounds through it. I sure hope it doesn't need a new hammer or trigger LOL !!!!
    I'll wait till I bust a few more rounds before opting to change the springs. I first want to see if it'll still only FTF with the Remmy ammo.
     
  7. sniper5

    sniper5 Member

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    My wife with her little wimpy hands uses the lightest Wolff springs in the kit in her GP100. Because of that we switched to Federal primers for her loads and have had 0 misfires. CCI and most others are anywhere from a 50/50 misfire rate and lower. Another thing that will help is to shave about 3-4 thousandth's off of the portion of the top portion of the hammer that strikes against the frame upon firing to transfer more energy to the transfer bar. Don't get carried away. A few thousandths is plenty.

    I am shooting a 10# and 12# combo on my GP100 and using Remington 5 1/2 primers with no misfires and have not had to modify the hammer.
     
  8. Drail

    Drail Member

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    It's the Remington ammo. Every box of Rem. has a couple of duds in it. Be careful of removing material from the hammer to impart more energy to the primer. It was designed to impart most of it energy into the frame. Almost every Ruger I have seen where someone made this mod ended up with a broken transfer bar. The frame and the transfer bar have to share the load. Any time you lighten up the mainspring think about using Federal primers only.
     
  9. BCRider

    BCRider Member

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    Since you haven't done anything to it since new I'm going to recomend the flush and lube even more. Two years of the factory oil drying up and dust and some powder residue also gumming up the works seems like a great way to end up with the hammer dragging when falling at high speed. And primers don't need to be struck hard so much as they need to be struck FAST. A gummy hammer won't get up to the sort of speed needed.
     
  10. sniper5

    sniper5 Member

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    "Be careful of removing material from the hammer to impart more energy to the primer. It was designed to impart most of it energy into the frame."

    Absolutely agree. 3-4 thousandths is enough. Like-break out the digital calipers. Any more than that can get you in trouble. But I would try Federal primers first before I touch anything on the gun.
     
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