Fully Serrated, Partially Serrated or Plain Edge?
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CoastieShep
Member
Straight edge for me.
Work knife is fully serrated, but they're given out to the guys for cutting rope, and most of the guys is seems don't realize that you have to sharpen a knife every once in a while.
Work knife is fully serrated, but they're given out to the guys for cutting rope, and most of the guys is seems don't realize that you have to sharpen a knife every once in a while.
docnyt
Member
It depends a lot on what you use it for. I don't think I would be needing a fully serrated folder.
Tomcat47
Member
I really had to think about the vote! I carry 3 each and every day.
I looked at it as a survival tool in a whole, that would cover many jobs. My choice of blade would be partial serrated for sure. They will do the light duty and have extra ability if called upon.
My Daily Carry is:
1) Masters of Defense CQD MK 1 (Partial Serrated) in Belt pouch.
or Gerber Gator - Large in pouch also Partial Serrated.
2) Masters of Defense CQD MK 2 (Partial Serrated)
Masters of Defense Tempest ( Partial Serrated)
***These among other MOD and Randall King Variants Ride on Clip in front pocket.
3) Swiss Army Victorinox Spartan...for stripping wire, cutting rope, peeling apples etc.
Pics are MOD Mark 1 and Mark 2
I looked at it as a survival tool in a whole, that would cover many jobs. My choice of blade would be partial serrated for sure. They will do the light duty and have extra ability if called upon.
My Daily Carry is:
1) Masters of Defense CQD MK 1 (Partial Serrated) in Belt pouch.
or Gerber Gator - Large in pouch also Partial Serrated.
2) Masters of Defense CQD MK 2 (Partial Serrated)
Masters of Defense Tempest ( Partial Serrated)
***These among other MOD and Randall King Variants Ride on Clip in front pocket.
3) Swiss Army Victorinox Spartan...for stripping wire, cutting rope, peeling apples etc.
Pics are MOD Mark 1 and Mark 2
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o Unforgiven o
Member
Honestly the only preference I have for an edge will be what the task at hand is. For my pocket knives, I may use it in all sorts of ways throughout the day and a partialy serrated edge would be suited for most anything, an obvious choice for EDC. For knives I use while snorkeling I prefer a fully serrated edge.
Eric Draven
Member
I actually carry one of each...never know what you may need to do.
Fred Fuller
Moderator Emeritus
Plain, plain, plain for me.
If it's sharp enough I don't need serrated. I just sharpen the thing when it needs it.
But get what suits YOU... not me.
I'm working on picking out a new EDC, and right now I'm trying a Buck Vantage Select (see pic at http://www.knifeworks.com/buckvantage-selectblackglassreinforcednylonplainedge.aspx - not where I got mine, just the first link I found).
I don't have to impress anyone withe the knife I carry. I don't care for pocket knives that cost a whole lot of $$$, if I have to wreck one in a pinch or lose one, I'd as soon not regret it overmuch. It's just a few inches of sharp steel, it doesn't need to cost $100/inch to be useful to me.
I want a good workaday folding knife (fixed blades are frowned on in NC), big enough but not too big, easy to open with one hand- if it takes two hands to close it I don't mind that too much. Main thing is that it have a useful blade shape (some belly and a good sharp point), be comfortable to carry and use, that it take and hold a good edge and that whatever blade locking system it has be reliable. When I find one I like I'll get two, as I usually carry one on each side. The Vantage design offers three different blade steels and handle materials (420HC in black glass reinforced nylon in the Select, 13C26 Sandvik in charcoal Dymondwood in the Avid and S30V in black G10 in the Pro) so I can have some choice in those areas, if I like the overall design.
lpl
If it's sharp enough I don't need serrated. I just sharpen the thing when it needs it.
But get what suits YOU... not me.
I'm working on picking out a new EDC, and right now I'm trying a Buck Vantage Select (see pic at http://www.knifeworks.com/buckvantage-selectblackglassreinforcednylonplainedge.aspx - not where I got mine, just the first link I found).
I don't have to impress anyone withe the knife I carry. I don't care for pocket knives that cost a whole lot of $$$, if I have to wreck one in a pinch or lose one, I'd as soon not regret it overmuch. It's just a few inches of sharp steel, it doesn't need to cost $100/inch to be useful to me.
I want a good workaday folding knife (fixed blades are frowned on in NC), big enough but not too big, easy to open with one hand- if it takes two hands to close it I don't mind that too much. Main thing is that it have a useful blade shape (some belly and a good sharp point), be comfortable to carry and use, that it take and hold a good edge and that whatever blade locking system it has be reliable. When I find one I like I'll get two, as I usually carry one on each side. The Vantage design offers three different blade steels and handle materials (420HC in black glass reinforced nylon in the Select, 13C26 Sandvik in charcoal Dymondwood in the Avid and S30V in black G10 in the Pro) so I can have some choice in those areas, if I like the overall design.
lpl
I personally would not want to pay more than $70 for a working blade and thats the top end for me now. Most of my carry folding knives are around $25-$40 and I'm not interested in collecting, but I like looking at others collections.
Though plain edged blades are easier to sharpen, I really like the serrations for more heavy duty work...no substitute for a 50/50 in my book.
Eric, I like your website...interesting ideas. Your skull logo is cool.
Lee, I like that Buck you linked us to. Looks like a good quality blade and the price is right.
Though plain edged blades are easier to sharpen, I really like the serrations for more heavy duty work...no substitute for a 50/50 in my book.
Eric, I like your website...interesting ideas. Your skull logo is cool.
Lee, I like that Buck you linked us to. Looks like a good quality blade and the price is right.
MutinousDoug
Member
Plain edge for me. When I need a saw, I bring a saw. I have a few knives with saw blades on them; a Vic and a stag handled German hunting folder but I don't recall ever using the saw blade on either of them to dress deer or elk.
My EDC is more of a whittler: the Case swaybback jack but a medium stockman is probably a more versatile carry.
My EDC is more of a whittler: the Case swaybback jack but a medium stockman is probably a more versatile carry.
Fergy35
Member
I voted for the plain edge too. Just my preference. I can cut rope just fine with a good sharp plain edge. Serrations do have their place. I have a couple that I carry sometimes, but I prefer the plain edge.
brandon_mcg
Member
i vote for the plain edge. my benchmade is partially serrated but i wish that it wasnt.
I voted plain... I like having a nice sharp edge that I can predict how its gonna act.... I hate that feeling of going between the serrations and the plain edge...
And since you wanted pics... this is my $12 EDC truck stop special, in supermagical "stainless steel"... at least that's what it says on the blade... But it has served me well for over 7 years now...
And since you wanted pics... this is my $12 EDC truck stop special, in supermagical "stainless steel"... at least that's what it says on the blade...
But it has served me well for over 7 years now...
Zeke/PA
Member
To each his own but I really prefer a knife that I can sharpen easily.
Plain Edge for Me!!
Plain Edge for Me!!
Myles
Member
I prefer fully serrated.
Although I will carry a plain edge on occasion, I cannot stand the partially serrated knives - they are not really suited for a chore that needs one type or another.
Although I will carry a plain edge on occasion, I cannot stand the partially serrated knives - they are not really suited for a chore that needs one type or another.
22-rimfire
Member
9mmforMe, try cutting room full of carpet with your partially serrated knife. My choice depends on my planned use. I keep a fully serrated Spyderco Endura in my field bag for things that merit its special touch. I also have a couple SAKs that have a fully serrated blade that comes in handy. Again, these larger SAKs go in my field bag.
I have quite a few of the partially serrated blades, but feel that the serrations are just where I want a sharp edge when I'm really trying hard to cut something difficult. Basically a partially serrated knife is not good for any task that requires either a plain edge or serrated edge. But they look cool.
I choose a plain edge which I keep very sharp for most cutting chores.
Choose what you want. I chose some of each myself.
I have quite a few of the partially serrated blades, but feel that the serrations are just where I want a sharp edge when I'm really trying hard to cut something difficult. Basically a partially serrated knife is not good for any task that requires either a plain edge or serrated edge. But they look cool.
I choose a plain edge which I keep very sharp for most cutting chores.
Choose what you want. I chose some of each myself.
Fred Fuller
Moderator Emeritus
Just got in the Spyderco Tenacious I ordered. I think this one is it! It too is the plain edge version, of course. Don't tell anyone, but Amazon has it for $27.40 with free shipping.
http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=294
Best of all, my wife likes the Buck I carried for the past week or so and has adopted it.
lpl ( http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tena...7578/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295731005&sr=8-1 for the Amazon listing)
http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=294
Best of all, my wife likes the Buck I carried for the past week or so and has adopted it.
lpl ( http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tena...7578/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295731005&sr=8-1 for the Amazon listing)
451 Detonics
Member
It really depends on which EDC knife you are talking about. I dislike serrated blades on a slipjoint...don't own a single one. On locking blades I don't mind a partially serrated blade and on my last ditch one hand opening tacticals I think a fully serrated blade makes sense as the cutting power through things like seatbelts, leather, denim, etc is magnified over a straight blade. Unlike most folks here tho my last ditch knife will never see the light of day except in a last ditch effort. I regularly carry a social slipjoint, a locking blade for heavier work in addition to the emergency knife. The first two take care of all my daily cutting chores while the razor sharp emergency knife will not be dulled by daily use but is always 100% ready. One that I modded a few days after I bought it and still carry quite often is this Spyderco Endura. It is an original as you can see by the plastic clip.
Myles
Member
My favorite EDC, especially the Seki City models - I have a matching pair. I've used them for tearing through 4 and 6 inch steel reinforced hoses - nothing but a fully serrated can come close on those.
bannockburn
Member
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For me with my EDC, I really need the serrated portion to cut through the nylon binding material on the bundles that I have to open. The partially serrated section of my S&W S.O.R.T. blade is perfectly suited for that task, while still leaving me enough of a plain edge for cutting and slicing everything else.
I have a dedicated SD blade (cold steel vaquero 4") for carrying when I don't have any of my versatile users sharpened.
Overall I prefer the PE as it is the most versatile.
I do not own a PS but I think for my preferred form of knife defense, what mercop calls "inverted edge tactics," it is a nice compromise. Since you essentially initiate cuts in IET with the portion close to the pivot, it would be nice to ensure that portion stays sharp longer IF you want an EDC knife that is suitable for SD and versatile use, without constant touching up to keep a razor edge.
Overall though I really like a lightly convexed edge achieved with a 60 (220 mesh) micron belt on a 1x30" harbor freight and polished lightly with a leather belt w/ white polishing paste. VERY toothy but polished and keenly aligned. Easy to resharpen or touch up (via "steeling" or sharpening) with a coarse DMT dia sharp stone. It is not easy to keep such an edge in hair popping condition after weeks of use but it definitely slices aggressively, better, longer than any other type of edge for me.
I spend a long time reprofiling the edge though...a LONG time...from factory knives. This part is tricky. Takes up to an hour working with the sander I mentioned. This is the key for me in getting a good user edge. It does not hurt the integrity of the blade but it creates a much more acute edge that cuts through things better. I leave the metal toward the spine on. Whether the blade is initially FFG, sabre, or other, this works well - you just keep a low angle, keep the blade from getting hot, and work toward a burr on the opposite side. Then you flip and repeat several times. You end up with a VERY long lasting convex edge which IMO is sharper than other blade profiles at a given thickness/sharpness. It is also less prone to get caught in what you are cutting than a flat or, especially, hollow secondary edge.
Overall I prefer the PE as it is the most versatile.
I do not own a PS but I think for my preferred form of knife defense, what mercop calls "inverted edge tactics," it is a nice compromise. Since you essentially initiate cuts in IET with the portion close to the pivot, it would be nice to ensure that portion stays sharp longer IF you want an EDC knife that is suitable for SD and versatile use, without constant touching up to keep a razor edge.
Overall though I really like a lightly convexed edge achieved with a 60 (220 mesh) micron belt on a 1x30" harbor freight and polished lightly with a leather belt w/ white polishing paste. VERY toothy but polished and keenly aligned. Easy to resharpen or touch up (via "steeling" or sharpening) with a coarse DMT dia sharp stone. It is not easy to keep such an edge in hair popping condition after weeks of use but it definitely slices aggressively, better, longer than any other type of edge for me.
I spend a long time reprofiling the edge though...a LONG time...from factory knives. This part is tricky. Takes up to an hour working with the sander I mentioned. This is the key for me in getting a good user edge. It does not hurt the integrity of the blade but it creates a much more acute edge that cuts through things better. I leave the metal toward the spine on. Whether the blade is initially FFG, sabre, or other, this works well - you just keep a low angle, keep the blade from getting hot, and work toward a burr on the opposite side. Then you flip and repeat several times. You end up with a VERY long lasting convex edge which IMO is sharper than other blade profiles at a given thickness/sharpness. It is also less prone to get caught in what you are cutting than a flat or, especially, hollow secondary edge.
22-rimfire, I don't see myself needing to cut a room full of carpet, but if I had to and needed a different blade then I would acquire such a blade. I've found that the tasks for which I'm involved have been managed quite well with a 50/50...cardboard, tape, strings, paper, plastic bags. Don't get me wrong I have some fully serrated and plain edges....just prefer a combo blade for EDC.
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