Fun with CMP M1 Garand (longish)

[Guy B. Meredith]

I have had no interest in long guns over the last 40 years but have always had an itch to take up the government’s offer through the CMP. Recently I became the owner of a USGI SA Field Grade M1 Garand of 1943 vintage for $375 plus shipping.

I had seen comments that the Garand in general is not very accurate compared to other battle rifles and not to expect better than 4 MOA accuracy from the Field and Rack Grades sold by the CMP. I purchased this one for historical and sentimental value and did not expect much more of it than pleasant days at the range with possible cost of re-barreling if I wanted to get serious.

My first trip to the range ended up being spent on sorting out the rear sights that I had taken apart the previous day and working on not flinching. (Did I mention that I have the mother of all flinches from that Argentine Mauser in 30-06 40 years ago and a few boxes of 12 GA slugs?)

Second trip to the range. Dunno the first thing about shooting iron sighted rifles at distance so I used the same computer distance glasses and POI aim as I do on the revolver.

As on the first trip I started at 50 yds. Shot one clip and decided it was time to graduate to 100 yds. (See photo). I could not see the holes even with a 35X scope and figured it was either the best group I'd ever shot with a serious rifle or the worst and had to wait until target change to see for sure. The ragged 4 shot hole and adjacent single were shot with the same sight picture. The two at 7:00 were with my eyes closed--the flinch.

The 9" (?) bullseye totally disappeared for me at 100 yds. I spent quite a bit of time playing around with sight picture. While firing one clip I zoned in for 7 rounds (see 100 yd photo), but for the most part I struggled to see the target or develop a good sight picture.

Having read not to expect better than 4 MOA with the Field Grade, my jaw dropped with a resounding "thud!" as I watched the groups develop. Total disbelief. I am just not that good with a rifle.

All shot with the CMP surplus ammo.

Gotta work on that sight picture. In the meantime I would be interested in finding someone who can shoot well enough to give me an idea of the potential of this rifle.

 

[jefnvk]

Some people just cannot accept that a 60-year old semi-auto battle rifle can shoot well. They'd rather have people buying the latest whiz-bang EBR, so when they get outshot, at least it was with a 'better' rifle.

I find that I can consistantly hold 5 or 6 of the 8 in a 2" circle, with a couple flyers. And the trigger just feels right to me, not a light letoff, but a crisp one.

And you can't beat PINNNNNGGGGG!

 

[ocabj]

Is this your first time with a rear sight aperture and a front blade?

If so, make sure you are always focusing on your front sight blade. Do not try to focus onto the target's aiming black. It sometimes helps to draw a line on your front sight blade so you have a focus point. It's not uncommon for a shooter to quickly focus on the target then focus on the front sight then back to the target continuously to give that false sense of having focus on both the front sight and target at the same time. But this will lead to poor groups. Just keep your focus on the front sight.

As far as where the front sight post is held on the target, that is personal preference. Most people like the 6 o'clock hold, which is when you put the top of the front sight post at the bottom of the aiming/target black. The center hold, where you put the top of the front sight post in the center of the aiming/target black (point of aim = point of impact), is actually a good choice for beginners since it is easier for the shooter to focus on the front sight while lining up on the target.

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

I shoot revolver with iron sights so am okay with that. I did find myself going back and forth between target and front sights as I just could not see any portion of the target at 100. With revovlers the bullseye is always large enough. Will try the 6 o'clock hold even though it is against my nature as an action pistol shooter.

 

[MechAg94]

I hadn't thought about focusing on the front sight. I will have to make a point of that next time.

I have always preferred holding the top of the front sight just under the target black. I hate it when the front sight hides the bullseye.
Shooting 1911's, that is how you are supposed to aim them anyway, so I was already used it.

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

In anything where the size of the target is unknown, holding 6:00 presents the problem that you don't know how much elevation to give to hit center from your aim point at the edge. With center of mass hold it doesn't make any difference as to size as you are already at center.

However, having the target covered up does not work so for small or distant targets I guess I will need to learn the 6:00 method. Long range marksmanship vs short range action.

 

[cracked butt]

I usually use a center hold when shooting matches at 200 yards- the width of the M1 front sight is just about the same as the width of the bullseye at that range- you just make the front sight fit in the bull and you should be centered.

 

[Swampy]

Guys,

Highpower Service Rifle shooters are divided just about equally with the use of a 6:00 hold and the Navy hold (center mass). Both do equally well at all ranges. It's strictly a "shooters preferrence".......

Best to all,
Swampy

garands forever

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

What size are the highpower match targets?

The target I was using at 100 yards is 9 inch and completely disappeared in distortion around the front sight.

I was wearing the computer distance glasses that I use to be able to see the front sight on a revolver clearly so anything at 100 yards needs to be a bit bigger for center hold.

 

[ocabj]

The standard aiming black on a SR target (200 yards) is 13".

The aiming black on the SR-1, which is the SR reduced target for 100 yards, is 6-3/8".

Get a PDF of the SR-1 target here:
http://www.uspalma.com/Targets/targets.htm

I print them out on ivory 110lb card stock available at any office supply store. Cheaply made targets assuming you have access to a laser printer.

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

Let me clarify my previous statement. The 9" target disappeared at 100 yds when I used the center hold. I am so accustomed to using the center hold that I did not even think to try the 6:00 hold. Looks like that is on the list for this weekend.

Thanks for the information.

 

[Swampy]

Guy,

To clarify previous....

ALL Highpower aiming blacks, out to 600 yds anyway, are approx. 6.0 MOA across...

100 yds = 6-3/8 "
200 yds = 13 "
300 yds = 18 "
600 yds = 36 "

This relationship allows the same sight picture to be used at all ranges. With minor variances, most US Service Rifles have a front sight post that is very near to the same width as the black when looking through the rear aperture.

Best,
Swampy

Garands forever

 

[30Cal]

You might have better luck with one of the hooded match aperatures. I like the 0.595 one. Also, with the hooded aperature, there's a guy that makes a lens that will drop into it.

http://www.bjonessights.com/

 

[Jaywalker]

Guy:

Did I mention that I have the mother of all flinches from that Argentine Mauser in 30-06 40 years ago...

I owned that .30-'06 40 years ago, too! it was a Golden West, or something like that, with a monte carlo stock, a two-groove barrel, and about a 25-pound trigger pull. I think I had to "squeeze" the trigger with two fingers to elicit a "bang," by which time I sure knew it was coming. I've owned bigger and smaller rifles since then, but never again a .30-'06. (It was a Christmas present from my father - it cost $55 - I'd wanted the $140 Winchester Model 70.) It took me years to get over it - get over it - get over it...

Jaywalker

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

Jaywalker,

Yeah, real joy. Between that and having no use for my 12 GA Mossberg 195K except target shooting with slugs the reptile portion of my brain went into terminal and permanent 'flee' mode. It has been a major fight.

You cannot believe how pleased I am with the handling of the Garand in comparison: feels straight back, don't feel worried about getting it in the face and can handle 60 rounds without undue stress in summer T shirt. Not a S&W trigger by any means, but when I got down to serious group building I began to get a feel for it. Saw a comment about greasing the sear and am anxious to try that.

The Mauser was my brother's and I don't know where he got it. Probably the Santa Ana Gun Room as that was the center of firearms sport back then in Orange County, CA.

The rifle had a vicious broomstick of a stock--I think he eventually put on a rubber add on comb or some such. Durn thing went straight for your right cheek. But then I just recently found out that I may not have been holding rifles and shotguns correctly back then.

Originally I thought it was an 1898 Mauser, but it had a short barrel. Last month I found out that there is a 1909 carbine and that may be what my brother had. Terrible muzzle blast--I couldn't shoot our .22 rifle in the lanes next to him and we noticed that other shooters seemed to avoid the adjoining two lanes on either side as well.

 

[Shane333]

[Sigh] I want a Garand.

Wish I wasn't so poor. For most people, a $300 - $400 rifle is no big deal. For me, it means saving up for a solid year or so, holding onto every cent.

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

Shane,

Hang in there. My disposable income goes to upgrading the 1963 vintage house we bought 3 years ago and I am very frugal anyway. Took me years to get to this point and finally made the decision based on value and carrying out a threat my wife thought was not serious.

Regarding the value. I saw a rather well worn M1 in a local gunshop for $695 and new or newer versions at the $1200 to $1400 level. When you buy from the CMP they give you incredible service so you know your rifle will be functional and the prices are low enough to guarantee it will be worth more than you paid for it. Knowing that I could sell the M1 off without a loss if it turned out that I still don't like rifles was a plus.

Remember that the accuracy and appearance are not guaranteed. It seems as though I drew a good one (accurate and with cosmetics I can accept). However, no matter what the appearance and accuracy my thought is you can't lose.

Regarding the threat. My wife is an impulse buyer and, as I told her, is the leak in our financial bucket. I have threatened that if she didn't stop impulse spending I would spend the money so it wouldn't be there for her to spend--just not fair for me to deny myself and be frugal if she is not going to share the pain. She continues to spend so I sold my pistol and bought a used Mossberg 500 and the M1.

I really would not have carried out the threat without the value proposition because I am such a d**ned Boy Scout. I am glad I did. The whole experience has been fun.

 

[30Cal]

Some people will tell you not to lube the sear/trigger surface. I personally don't think it matters. Tom Luhmann in Clovis ((559) 299-7112)does a trigger job for $25. You might want to look into that. He's the local M14 plumber that those of us still shooting in competition around here use.

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

What are the pros and cons on lubing the sear?

I do think I remember a warning--from CMP?--that lubing the "hammer claws" or "hooks" might lead to slam fire. I did drop some Lubriplate on the sear a few minutes ago to check it out. It looks like the sear may be what they are talking about. Is that right?

If I compete it will be the same level as revolver--enjoying the activity and trying my personal best. I am not anything close to a killer competitor type. Given that, would the trigger job be worth while or is that something you do to complement an overall tune job and competition barrel?

 

[AZ Jeff]

Lubing the hammer hooks can result in doubling, especially if the shooter "milks" the trigger.

 

[30Cal]

I think the trigger job is definitely worth the couple bucks regardless. It makes it so much easier to shoot a rifle well if the trigger is clean and consistant.

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

Does the problem with lubing the trigger hook have to do with grease or gun oil as well? The Lubriplate did seem to make a difference, but don't need any funny stuff while I'm getting back into rifles and fighting the flinch.

Does the trigger job require sending the entire rifle or just the trigger group?

 

[cracked butt]

I would leave the hammer hooks and other trigger engagement parts dry.

For a trigger job, only the trigger group is needed.

 

[Swampy]

I'd also leave the trigger groups engagement surfaces free of oil & grease. Too much chance of doubling......

You only have to send a trigger group off to get it tuned. Worth every penny in my estimation.

Swampy

Garands forever