Future build- sort of. Maybe...

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Here's the outside view of my current concept for a home-made .22 revolver. I'd show you the insides but... well, it's messy. As I keep learning from build to build the concept keeps changing.

This is designed so that the mechanism will operate with the side-plate off, which completely exposes the mechanism. That will make it quite a bit easier to fit and fuss with the various bits to get the timing correct.

The mechanism is a variation on the 'tried-and-true' lockwork used in my last two builds- with the addition of a pawl to rotate the cylinder. The side-plate will be relieved to accommodate this. The cylinder is 'locked' at the front by a spring-plunger that engages the cylinder-opening opposite the chamber being fired.

The gun in the picture has a 2" barrel and a short grip, but it could just as easily have a 4" barrel and full-length grip. The frame is 5/8" thick, the Cylinder is 1-1/4 inches in diameter and holds six shots. The gun would load through an open port in the circular breech-plate, which might or might not have a loading-gate.

It might be possible to build this without the lathe or mill- but having those working would make this a hell of a lot easier! It's likely to be some time and who knows how many more modifications before I actually build this thing (or something like it) but I am closing in on a finished design.
3B2DNBP.jpg
 
Is the only connection between the front and rear halves of the receiver that thin section below the cylinder? If so, I think I'd be worried about strength. Even for just a .22, it needs to last through handling and use. Very cool, but I'd hate to do all that work and then have it crack or become two pieces!
 
Is the only connection between the front and rear halves of the receiver that thin section below the cylinder? If so, I think I'd be worried about strength. Even for just a .22, it needs to last through handling and use. Very cool, but I'd hate to do all that work and then have it crack or become two pieces!

Me too! Which is why the cylinder axis pin is quite thick and would be made out of spring-tempered O1 tool steel. It's actually a structural part of the frame, and is secured at the muzzle-end with a screw.
 
Ahhh! Good idea! Probably should be sufficient then for a gun of that size/weight. It would just be a shame to bend the frame the first time you have to pistol-whip some bad guy with this piece!


:rofl:
 
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