Garand trigger disassembly

[monotonous_iterancy]

I'm taking apart an M1 for the first time. The trigger assembly has some cosmoline on it, and I'm trying to disassemble it. The only problem, is that I mistakenly left the hammer in the sear before I took the first pin out, and now nothing comes out. I'm also can't seem to get the pin back in.

What to do?

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Well, I got the pin back in, the hole wasn't aligned.

Just curious, what do you do with the internals, do you grease them, or oil them?

 

[rcmodel]

Why not hose the trigger group out with a can of gun scrubber or auto brake cleaner??

Then?
Lightly Oil the moving parts, except on the hammer cocking surface when the bolt rides over it, and trigger guard locking cams.

See this:
http://www.ibiblio.org/hyperwar/USA/ref/FM/PDFs/FM23-5.pdf

rc

 

[Onmilo]

You should be able to use a 1/16" Punch to act as a slave pin.
Try thumbing the hammer back while pulling the trigger, it should release the sear with a bit of wiggling but be careful, when it does, the hammer is going to come forward with quite a bit of force, if you have a digit in the way you are gonna feel it.

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Well, I got it re-assembled. The only problem now is that the bolt won't move back all the way and lock.

 

[cfullgraf]

You may find some useful information on the care and feeding of a Garand at this site.

http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/

 

[Reloadron]

Well, I got it re-assembled. The only problem now is that the bolt won't move back all the way and lock.

Remove the trigger group assembly from the rifle again. Allow the trigger guard to almost be closed against the trigger housing. With the safety off you should be able to pull the trigger and release the hammer. Then you should be able to manually cock the hammer, pull the trigger and again release the hammer. You should be able to manually cock the hammer and release it using the trigger over and over again. Does it work?

Also, cfullgraf's link will get you to complete breakdown and reassembly instructions for the trigger group. Good stuff with images.

Ron

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Remove the trigger group assembly from the rifle again. Allow the trigger guard to almost be closed against the trigger housing. With the safety off you should be able to pull the trigger and release the hammer. Then you should be able to manually cock the hammer, pull the trigger and again release the hammer. You should be able to manually cock the hammer and release it using the trigger over and over again. Does it work?

Well, I read that first thing in the morning. Took the safety off, pulled the trigger, and the trigger guard snapped shut the extra fraction of an inch it had to go. I didn't know it would do that. Sliced my index finger.

It works right, what does that mean?

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Well, I figured out the problem. I just had to dry fire it, and the bolt locked back.

Then I discovered that I put something in the feeding system in backwards, not exactly sure what yet. There's a big gap between the bolt, and where the clip is supposed to go. (Sigh), it took me a while to get that.

Oh well, all the fun of a new rifle I suppose.

 

[Reloadron]

OK, maybe I should have been more clear and stated do not place you hand or fingers in front of the hammer. Sorry about that.

Does the rifle work now? If not some pictures might help at this point. Terms like:

Then I discovered that I put something in the feeding system in backwards, not exactly sure what yet.

Make things a little hard to follow. I understand this is all new to you but it gets hard to follow.

Ron

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

OK, maybe I should have been more clear and stated do not place you hand or fingers in front of the hammer. Sorry about that.

Oh, it wasn't the hammer. It was the trigger guard. My finger was near the bottom of the trigger, and the trigger guard pinched it and sliced into it.

But yeah, I figured out what the problem was. It works fine now. I'm starting to understand it a lot better.

 

[303tom]

I'm taking apart an M1 for the first time. The trigger assembly has some cosmoline on it, and I'm trying to disassemble it. The only problem, is that I mistakenly left the hammer in the sear before I took the first pin out, and now nothing comes out. I'm also can't seem to get the pin back in.

What to do?

Check this out...............And I use Lucas Gun Oil on everything !..............
http://www.surplusrifle.com/garand/index.asp

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Alright. One more question. Is it possible to run a cleaning rod breech to muzzle? When I had it broken down, it didn't seem like a straight forward path.

 

[303tom]

Alright. One more question. Is it possible to run a cleaning rod breech to muzzle? When I had it broken down, it didn't seem like a straight forward path.

YES, if you use a bore snake, ROD no................But if you have a brass cleaning rod your not going to hurt anything going through the muzzle..........

 

[monotonous_iterancy]

Could it wear the rifling down considering that if you go muzzle first, you go against it?

I know that brass is softer than steel, but I've always heard not to go muzzle first if you can help it. I guess that's just the voice of caution.

I mean, I guess it was assumed when they designed this gun that it would be cleaned muzzle first, and they got cleaned a lot more frequently than I clean.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

you could use a boresnake. i prefer a patchworm. i wouldn't worry about running a rod from the muzzle every now and then.

 

[Jim K]

If you use a boresnake, please use one the right size and don't get it stuck. I am tired of reading about stuck boresnakes.

You can use a steel cleaning rod; the steel in those rods is softer than the barrel steel.

You can use a light application of gun grease on the op rod and also on the trigger guard parts, including the sear and hammer.

Jim

 

[jad0110]

Unlike some guns (the AR comes to mind), grease and the M1 Garand go together like beer and pizza (any guesses what my dinner is about to be ).

The CMP site has a good description with photos on where to apply grease:

http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/assemblyhtml/reassemblefeed2.html

Note that they over applied grease for illustration purposes. It doesn't take much. Just a light film. I like to apply high temp automotive grease using a simple artist's brush, about 1/4" wide.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

here's an even better guide to greasing the M1

http://www.garandgear.com/how-to-grease-your-m1-garand

 

[Reloadron]

Could it wear the rifling down considering that if you go muzzle first, you go against it?

I know that brass is softer than steel, but I've always heard not to go muzzle first if you can help it. I guess that's just the voice of caution.

I mean, I guess it was assumed when they designed this gun that it would be cleaned muzzle first, and they got cleaned a lot more frequently than I clean.

You are very, very unlikely to wear the rifling out cleaning the rifle from the muzzle end. Just use some care and good cleaning equipment.

As to the great debate of how ME (Muzzle Erosion) actually happens? Some speculate it is a result of jamming steel cleaning rods in and out of the muzzle and bumping the sides in the process. Others speculate it is the result of hot gasses escaping the muzzle. I won't even get into any of the causes. I will say, without any reservation, that when good cleaning practices are used your rifle will lead a happy and healthy life delivering good accuracy.

My thinking here is pretty simple. You paid how much for a good M1 Garand rifle? Like any quality rifle they aren't cheap. So why use cheap cleaning equipment? I like the J Dewey Cleaning rods and products for gun care in general. That includes their jags. I also like Tipton line of rods and cleaning products.

I was never in the bore snake fan club. They are OK for a quick clean I guess, just not for me. I want a good, coated, strong rod driving a quality jag down my M1 Garand (and other rifle) barrels. Dewey and Tipton give me what I want.

Just My Take
Ron