General distance and size of target for shooting steel?

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CoyoteSix

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Hello all, I was thinking of buying some portable steel targets from this place.
http://www.actiontarget.com/store/evilroyline/at-evil-roy-practice-target.html
I've heard/read good reviews on this line of targets and really want to buy this and a .22lr pistol to practice my pistol fundamentals. I have 2.5 acres to myself to plink on (Just clay shooting and .22s) with a couple neighbors a +100 yards away from my home. (I shoot into a berm facing an area with no homes anyway.) So I was wondering what size target and distance you guys think would be a good range and size target. The targets that are available and i would use are 6",8",12" round plates, or something called a %40 IPSC pistol target. I like the torso but they don't know how big it is. (Anyone else know?)

So what do you more experienced Hand gunners think is the best distance and target combination for a beginner? Thanks again!
 
The short answer is, shoot at whatever distance you can hit the targets and use whatever size targets you want to use.
Get some different size targets. You will use them all.

The most important thing is be safe, stay within your limits and DO NOT allow a bullet to leave your property.

Much of my shooting is at steel (with a dirt backstop).

This is my backyard range. (up to 50 yards)
Different size targets are for everything from bench shooting to close in (5-15 yards) pistol shooting while on the move.
And I do a lot of low light/dark laser/light practice.
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The 115 yard range has a few steel targets also.
One of my favorite things is 52 yard small handgun shooting (standing, two hands).
The steel lets you know instantly if you miss.
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And there's fun targets for fast pistol shooting.:)
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Woo, lucky you. Beginning with .22 cal is perfect.

Steel targets work fine from five yards out. Remembering my beginner days not so long ago, I'd place those targets just far enough from the berm so I could get behind them when necessary. Then I'd mark out practice distances of five, seven and ten yards. Those are distances you find in your house and that's what you're training to protect, yes?

Read these forums. There are tons of good info and encouragement here.

Stay safe and God bless.
 
I am sorry, but 5 yards is not necessarily a safe distance for a steel target when being shot by a .22. It can, but, but with some risk. The bullets can and will shatter much of the time when hitting the target and then you have splatter. Where the splatter goes will depend on the angle of impact.

Ideally for where you are shooting, you will want your target angle slightly downward and off to the left or right as well relative to your shooting position. In this way, splatter or whole bullets that may get returned from the target will first hit the ground after hitting the target (each impact bleeding off velocity) such that if the ground does not trap the projectiles, they will not only be slowed, but heading either off to your left or off toward your right side.

When you shoot that action target stand, and you will hit it more than you would ever think is likely, then you may have some problems, especially with that front leg. Make sure no flat faces of the steel are oriented toward you .

While they tell you that the target is fine for rifle rounds (centerfire is what they mean), don't shoot them at it because when you hit the legs, you are going to tear up the legs and then make the target unsafe for near distance shooting. They say AR500 steel won't be damage with rifle rounds up to 3000 fps (muzzle) when shot at 100 yards. This is not necessarily true. The face of the target can still become damaged...depending on the ammo you use. Your will get dimples and such that will result in the target being less than safe for close distance shooting.

For a newbie with a .22, you have a good target size with which to start and with a bit of practice, you should be hitting it at 25 yards in no time.

M2C showed you his backstops. You gotta have a backstop. The ground is not a reasonable backstop, nor is a forest or open pasture. Keep in mind that it may actually be illegal for a round of yours to leave your property under its own power. Many, maybe all, states have laws against shooting across property lines without permission, even if unintentional.
 
This is my cheesy video, but less than 1 minute into it you can see me shooting a 1/2 scale IDPA swinging steel target at 25 yards. Watch the base of the dust fly as the splatter hits the ground. That should give you some idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_VVFURQ8Xg&feature=g-upl

A permanent mounted one should have a down angel on it of I believe 5-10 degrees, to put as much splatter into the ground.
I would shoot at a steel target closer than 25 yards, but that's just me.
 
ALL bullets will shatter and spatter outwards along the face of the steel. The key to safe steel shooting is that the targets must all be smooth on the front face. No "divots" from rifle fire allowed. A rough texture is a recipe for back spatter or nasty returns.

For a dream range just look up any of Hickock 45's videos on You Tube. If you can set up a .22 and smaller caliber handgun range on your 2.5 acres that mimics that setup even in a modest way you would have a range that the rest of us would envy.

Depending on the makup of your property I'd suggest that paying for a few hours of a guy with a Bobcat would not be a bad option either if it means being able to move some dirt around to enhance any natural berm you have. But without pictures of the area you're thinking about using it's hard to say if it would be a good idea or not.
 
Thanks for all the great replies. Just so you know I am shooting into what is basically prairie land. However I may stop doing that for now without since I don't have a backdrop. :cuss:

Unless I find an economical way to build a back drop I'm thinking I might just have to make more outings into BLM land. (Legal to shoot there in Idaho). The nearest area I can comfortably shoot at is about 20-30 minutes away. This is more inconvenient but SAFE!

Anyone know of a cheap way to build a backdrop? :scrutiny:
 
By far the cheapeast is with dirt. Either dirt you have or dirt you get from folks looking to get rid of clean fill.

If drainage isn't an issue you can skim some off a given area and pile it high. It's not the sort of thing you'd do by hand unless you're tough strong and at least a little machocistic.... :D It involves using a Bobcat or some other earth moving machine.

If you want to put out the word to local truckers you may find that they are happy to use your spot to dump unwanted dirt from excavations in the area. It's often hard to get rid of fill of this sort so they are happy to have a spot where they can dump for free. However it does mean you'll need to be patient until there's work being done in your area that will produce such fill and you need to provide access and clear signage for them to guide them to the spot you want your berm. Including stakes laying out the "line" for the dumps. But if you luck out you can have a darn nice berm with 8 to 12 trucks of such fill. Or a merely "adequite" one with as little as four or five. The worst you need to do is "mine" out the bigger rocks for the first foot or two into the firing surface so you don't get nasty ricochets occuring. If you go this route then after all the dumps are done rent a Bobcat for an hour or two and sharpen up the pile so the sides are not so "slumpy". Then plant some grass seed or wild flower mix or something of the sort on your berm to provide a root system that will do a lot to prevent erosion and keep the berm as high as practical. Heck, if you do a good job of it the resulting "hill" would be an excellent taboggan or slippery slider plastic disc run for the kids when it snows in winter.... :D
 
I have some extra Ar500 steel targets if you need one. 50% IPSC TORSO ( A thru C ) scoring zone pattern. $52

Same as above but in 65% size...$82

Also have:

Skull for $56. 7.32" x 17.25"

$68 for a Zombie. 12" x 19.25"

All are 3/8" thickness, AR500
 
Circles , 6" for 35 yds. 8" at 50 yds. Steel that gets a pock mark may send copper jacket pieces your way if closer than 25 yds.
I agree.

The 8" plates are just right for 50 yards. Much larger and it is too easy, smaller than that and it becomes an exercise in diminishing returns.
 
OK, let me re-state my previous statement. All HANDGUN rounds will spatter along the face of the steel and not bounce back.

Double Naught, much of the shots of that great slo mo video are rifle rounds that create their own divot in the face of the steel and that is why a lot of the spatter is seen coming back. But fast forward to around 6 minutes and watch the handgun bullets and how they spatter out across the face of the plate with virtually zero back spatter towards the shooting line.

Legions of Speed Steel competitors have been safely shooting at steel for many years now.

The only time stuff comes back to the shooting line at such events is when the targets are in less than smooth condition or if some of the spatter strikes a second surface, such as the target stand or a rock in the dirt, and is reflected back to the line from this secondary reflection. Otherwise the spatter is simply directed out along the face of the target.

This would be the same with rifle rounds too if they do not crater upon impact. But the steel used in that video is clearly not armour plate or AR500. Instead it's a mild steel intended to be punched through or otherwise marked for the sake of the video.

The minimum "safe" distance for shooting Steel Challenge matches is 7 yards. If this resulted in any sort of significant danger then we would not see this distance being used in National matches. But once again it assumes targets with good condition flat faces that have not been marked up by high velocity "craters" or bent from being shot by magnum power rounds.
 
OK, let me re-state my previous statement. All HANDGUN rounds will spatter along the face of the steel and not bounce back.

NO!

Invariably, the steel will be damaged, somebody will hit an edge, etc. You cannot count on the steel causing bullets to splatter away from the shooter.

I have shot in various competitions on and off for the last 13 years and I have seen plenty of people hit by splatter. Usually, it inconsequential, but not always.

Taken from wiki, but is correct...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ricochet
The angle of departure, both vertically and horizontally, is difficult to calculate or predict due to the many variables involved, not the least of which is the deformation of the bullet caused by its impact with the surface it strikes.[5] Ricochets will almost always continue on a somewhat diagonal trajectory to their original trajectory, unless the impact is against a flat surface perpendicular to the angle of incidence (or approach), in which case the angle of reflection depends on the other variables involved.

Also note...
http://steelchallenge.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/steel-target-resource-guide.pdf

Of course, it isn't just the target face. It is also the stand on which the target is mounted that will also get shot. They always do.
 
I have competed in cowboy for a number of years in many states and I have been hit once with a ricochet. Bad target and I was slightly down hill from the target behind the shooter.. But then we use light handgun rounds with lead bullets in pistol and rifle. And we shoot the pistol targets as close as 18 feet. The top of the targets are waist high and the bottom is angled back by the way we hang them.

Hang a steel target at 10 degrees 21 feet away. No dimple in the world will make the 22 round hit you. You do have to be careful with the stand. Ours are all loose hangers. We need them to ring out when hit.

Once the bullet deflects down, make sure it cannot come back at you. Sand, mulch, dirt, anything to catch it.
 
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